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Rear end seals half shafts

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  • Wayne P.
    Expired
    • January 23, 2008
    • 444

    Rear end seals half shafts

    I have oil leaking out were the drive shafts enter the rear end.
    Oil runs down and hits exhaust.
    Would the seals be able to be replaced without taking rear end out ?
    Any product to expand seals ?
    Any suggestions would be helpful. 1964
  • Edward J.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • September 15, 2008
    • 6940

    #2
    Re: Rear end seals half shafts

    Wayne, the seals can be done in the car, remove half shafts and spare tire tub, remove rear leaf spring, unbolt rear cover and pry off carefully and this will expose the c/clips that hold axle shafts in, you will need a pair of snap ring pliers. it can be alittle work on floor of a garage but a lift make its awhole lot better.
    New England chapter member, 63 Convert. 327/340- Chapter/Regional/national Top Flight, 72 coupe- chapter and regional Top Flight.

    Comment

    • Joe L.
      Beyond Control Poster
      • February 1, 1988
      • 43202

      #3
      Re: Rear end seals half shafts

      Originally posted by Wayne Partridge (48428)
      I have oil leaking out were the drive shafts enter the rear end.
      Oil runs down and hits exhaust.
      Would the seals be able to be replaced without taking rear end out ?
      Any product to expand seals ?
      Any suggestions would be helpful. 1964

      Wayne----


      If you're referring to the side yoke axle seals, for all practical purposes, they cannot be replaced with the rear end in the car. The differential assembly must be removed from the car. This is because you have to remove the yoke axles to replace the seals. The only way to remove the yoke axles is to get inside the "pumpkin" and remove the snap rings retaining the axles.

      If both your yoke axles are REALLY worn, then the snap rings have fallen off and you can then remove the axles without the need to get into the "pumpkin". Of course, if this has occurred then you need to get into the "pumpkin" for a lot of other reasons including, but not limited to, the need to put the snap rings on the new axles.
      In Appreciation of John Hinckley

      Comment

      • Wayne W.
        Extremely Frequent Poster
        • April 30, 1982
        • 3605

        #4
        Re: Rear end seals half shafts

        Even if you can, it is harder to do than removing the whole thing and doing it on the bench.

        Comment

        • Wayne P.
          Expired
          • January 23, 2008
          • 444

          #5
          Re: Rear end seals half shafts

          Thanks Edward / Joe
          Sounds like a winter Job. I have a 4 post lift. I guess worst case I take out the rear end for repair. I was hoping to do it myself.

          Comment

          • Joe L.
            Beyond Control Poster
            • February 1, 1988
            • 43202

            #6
            Re: Rear end seals half shafts

            Originally posted by Edward Johnson (49497)
            Wayne, the seals can be done in the car, remove half shafts and spare tire tub, remove rear leaf spring, unbolt rear cover and pry off carefully and this will expose the c/clips that hold axle shafts in, you will need a pair of snap ring pliers. it can be alittle work on floor of a garage but a lift make its awhole lot better.

            Edward-----


            One BIG problem with this method. The cover is bolted at THREE points. The first is the spring. This can be removed as you described. The second are the bolts retaining the cover to the carrier housing which can be removed as you described. These can be removed rather easily with the other suspension stuff removed, although the upper row is a little hard to get at.

            The real trick is the 4 bolts that retain the cover (and the attached differential unit) to the removable crossmember. The only practical way to get at these bolts is to cut a hole in the fiberglass floor and get at them from above. Yes, I know that some folks say they can gain access to these bolts by getting up between the floor and the crossmember. I'd consider doing it that way to be a nightmare, especially trying to re-install the bolts even if you could get them out.

            Beyond all that, after one removes the strut rods, spring, half shafts, and rear cover, all you have left holding the differential carrier is the front bracket. So, the carrier has to be supported with a jack. With just the front bracket left, it's easier to just remove the whole unit from the car. In fact, it's far easier to remove the differential by just unbolting the rear crossmember (one bolt each side) and dropping the crossmember and differential carrier as a unit.
            Last edited by Joe L.; September 8, 2009, 09:23 PM. Reason: correct spelling error; hole NOT whole
            In Appreciation of John Hinckley

            Comment

            • Wayne P.
              Expired
              • January 23, 2008
              • 444

              #7
              Re: Rear end seals half shafts

              Wayne.
              Any suggestions before I take it out to locate it back in the same place ?
              Sorry if this sounds like a dumb question. I will also look in the Manuel.

              Comment

              • Timothy B.
                Extremely Frequent Poster
                • April 30, 1983
                • 5179

                #8
                Re: Rear end seals half shafts

                Wayne,

                There is a excellent article in the restorer magazine from winter 2005 explaining the relationship between the side yoke clearance and proper setting of the differential backlash.

                The article is authored by Duke Williams and Bill Bradley and it really helped me understand how all this is interconnected. Definately remove the rear from the car because you will probably want to address other things while it's apart..

                Comment

                • Gary R.
                  Extremely Frequent Poster
                  • April 1, 1989
                  • 1796

                  #9
                  Re: Rear end seals half shafts

                  Typically the differential will leak from the pinion seal,side yoke seals,cracked cover from bolts too long,or possibly a cracked housing.

                  Replacing the pinion seal on the car is possible but can be a hassle. Since you have a lift that will help. Replacing the yoke seals should done with the diff out of the car. I strongly recommend against attempting to remove the rear cover in the car. Yes it can be done but it can lead to 100 lbs iron unit on your head or floor.

                  To do a pinion seal, here is a thread I wrote on the job.



                  Again I would do it out of the car.

                  With the cover off look at the posi, if it's original it will be a Dana unit and those were not too good. Check it close for cracks. If it's a Eaton it was replaced and you should also check it for cracks. The link to that DC page also has all my differential threads on it, there are a lot of pictures I put up on the internals as well. The 63-64 diff's used the dana unit then switched to eaton in 65. The pinion splines were also different in the 63&64 so be sure your yoke is still good if you have a coarse spline yoke.

                  Comment

                  • Edward J.
                    Extremely Frequent Poster
                    • September 15, 2008
                    • 6940

                    #10
                    Re: Rear end seals half shafts

                    Joe, Your Right I Completly Forgot About The 4 Bolts On The Upper Cross Member. Wayne, Sorry For Misleading You.
                    New England chapter member, 63 Convert. 327/340- Chapter/Regional/national Top Flight, 72 coupe- chapter and regional Top Flight.

                    Comment

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