C-3 Body Lift

[Stephen L.]

Re: C-3 Body Lift

David and Steve,

If you use an "H" spreader beam above the car, the straps will pull straight up with no rubbing/damage to the body. Just open the doors. No need to worry about angles etc.

I would NOT purchase the straps available from the Corvette Vendors, rather, just go to the local store that sells individual straps and purchase 4 with the wide flat hooks.

Initially I used the same 2X2 steel tube which is gross overkill for the weight involved.

Doing it again, I'd use 2X4's on edge to make the "H". For stability nail 2ea 2X4's together to make a 4X4 eliminating the ability for them to tip to one side.

I placed some padding on the car roof, layed the "H" on that and then placed the straps under the body cage edge and wrapped then around the 4X4. You can use a "C" clamp to hold each strap so you don't poke holes in them.

To totally clear the frame, with tank and engine in place, I had a minimum hook height of about 7 ft.

Lift the body and roll the chassis out from under. Then place the body on the dolly. Reinstallation of the body involves lifting the body off the dolly, then align chassis with body and roll back under.

When reinstalling the body liftso that the front is high. This allows the chassis to easily roll in from the front and also to install the #4 body mount bolts (loose) first. By doing this you insure body alignment on the remainder of the frame and clearance at the firewall to prevent any interference/scratches.

If you have questions give me a call (864)963 2991

I've attached a drawing for an "H" spreader bar and a couple of photos showing height clearance and the hook style I used

[Steve L.]

Re: C-3 Body Lift

Stephen,
Yes, the 2X2 steel beam is overkill, But at the time I did mine, I had no idea of the weight of the body and I couldn't get any real answers from this or other forums. So I went heavy.

I like your idea of the wood frame. Come to think of it, I did weld on some spreader bars on my steel beam and I welded on one of those engine hoist slings with the adjustable hook for balance to the beam as well since I couldn't get any answers as to the balance. With the engine hoist sling, I could adjust the hook for and aft for balance. But I never used that feature.

Again, purchasing straps locally is a good move. The vendor sling wasn't of any real value since I didn't use the hook in the middle. But at the time, I didn't know any better.

You've got to be the only one ever to use a balcony for a body lift.

[Stephen L.]

Re: C-3 Body Lift

The balcony/deck was the only place I had. My garage ceiling was to low. I did place a vertical support under the deck framework to take the load until I found out that a couple of friends standing on the deck was MORE weight than the body.

I also initially used 2X2 steel thinking things were heavy.......

I also have one of those $65 slings... still in the box.

[Steve L.]

Re: C-3 Body Lift

Someone should sit down and do proper drawings of a working body dolly, your overhead frame and a view of both during a body lift.

My Noland body dolly will be firewood soon and I didn't think I'll be doing a body off restoration again on another C3 since it is a huge amount of work and expense. So it's unlikely I'll be building another body dolly- properly done, tested and drawings created. There is a lot of good ideas out there on body dollies that should be consolidated into one plan.

[David W.]

Re: C-3 Body Lift

Steve,

Thanks for all the help. I am going to use the h-spreader per your drawings. I can see where this might really be the best way to go with the straps and lifting.

Regards, David

[Steve L.]

Re: C-3 Body Lift

David,
I checked the height of my modified Noland body dolly.
It is 25 inches from the bottom of the lower horizontal 2x4 to the the top of the upper horizontal 2x4.

This barely allows me to fit between these two pieces to get completely under the body.

I added two pieces of 2X10 under the body dolly from one side to the other - flat side down so that I had a better place to mount the casters.

I removed the plywood pieces that Nolands plans show where he shows the casters attached. These plywood pieces along with the casters collapsed on me. I now have 6" steel castors attached to the 2X10's

I also removed the plywood pieces on top where the body sits because the body doesn't sit properly with these pieces. I added other braces to compensate.

I added an additional 2x10 on top so that the rocker channels have something flat to sit on. these need to be notched appropiately to clear various features on the channels. I didn't like this, I think mounting 2x10 vertically so that these pieces fit inside the rocker channels is a much better idea that I saw someone else do.