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Seat track rear bolts

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  • Tom R.
    Expired
    • April 7, 2008
    • 135

    Seat track rear bolts

    Trying to remove the rear bolts holding the seats/tracks in and rust has gotten the best of me. I don't believe they've ever been out. The fronts came out with little effort but the rear ones are too close to the track to allow a socket to seat properly and I've rounded the hex heads a little. A 1/2" drive is out of the question and even with a 3/8" drive the socket will not plumb over the bolt. Before I go any further, tell me what I don't know. Is there another way/tool besides a socket?
  • Joe L.
    Beyond Control Poster
    • February 1, 1988
    • 43201

    #2
    Re: Seat track rear bolts

    Originally posted by Tom Roberts (48871)
    Trying to remove the rear bolts holding the seats/tracks in and rust has gotten the best of me. I don't believe they've ever been out. The fronts came out with little effort but the rear ones are too close to the track to allow a socket to seat properly and I've rounded the hex heads a little. A 1/2" drive is out of the question and even with a 3/8" drive the socket will not plumb over the bolt. Before I go any further, tell me what I don't know. Is there another way/tool besides a socket?
    Tom-----


    I'd try a 1/4" drive size with a SIX POINT socket.
    In Appreciation of John Hinckley

    Comment

    • Rich P.
      Expired
      • January 12, 2009
      • 1361

      #3
      Re: Seat track rear bolts

      Tom,

      See if you can sneak a Snap-on flank drive open end wrench or crows foot in there.

      Rich

      Comment

      • William G.
        Very Frequent User
        • April 1, 1978
        • 154

        #4
        Re: Seat track rear bolts

        Tom
        I had the same problem on my 65
        I had to cut them out with a sawsall
        Be carefull and good luck.
        BILL

        Comment

        • Sandra H.
          Expired
          • August 29, 2007
          • 262

          #5
          Re: Seat track rear bolts

          Hi Tom,
          I went through similar with my 62......filed enough of the bolt head to get a lockjaw visegrip on it, then went under the car to get the nut off.
          This was from the advice of my guru........after 5 days of swearing at it, it was finally off.
          As my guru said, "This is going to be a long restoration".
          At the time I was thinking "OK, so when does this start being fun?"
          It's better now.
          Best, Sandy

          Comment

          • Alan S.
            Extremely Frequent Poster
            • July 31, 1989
            • 3415

            #6
            Re: Seat track rear bolts

            Hi Tom,
            Since you can see the threaded end of the bolt and mounting plate from the bottom side have you tried any of the rust release products from below?
            I've been reading about a product that 'freezes' the bolt that seems to help, but I'm sorry I don't know it's name, perhaps someone will mention it.
            Good Luck!
            Regards,
            Alan
            71 Coupe, 350/270, 4 speed
            Mason Dixon Chapter
            Chapter Top Flight October 2011

            Comment

            • Jack H.
              Extremely Frequent Poster
              • April 1, 1990
              • 9906

              #7
              Re: Seat track rear bolts

              I take the seats out of my '71 once a year to thoroughly clean the carpet below AND swap them side to side to even the wear on the drivers side. I'll admit getting a socket onto the rear bolts can be challenging, but with the appropriate length extention the job is very 'doable'...

              If they're siezed from disuse, then the 'typical' approaches are in order:

              (1) Shoot the top and bottom side of the bolts with a good brand of 'rust buster' penetrating oil. I use Aero Croil exclusively. Let it sit/soak for several hours.

              (2) Get you socket onto the head of the bolt and GENTLY but FIRMLY work the bolt in BOTH directions (tighten and loosen) until it starts to move. Do NOT simply WAIL AWAY in one direction (loosen) or you'll probably wind up fatigue fracturing the bolt at its head and then be staring at a drill-out removal!

              Comment

              • Sandra H.
                Expired
                • August 29, 2007
                • 262

                #8
                Re: Seat track rear bolts

                This is good info Jack......the bolt I was trying to remove was front passenger next to center hump. Odd size bolt, different from the rest. Could not seat anything onto it......that's when "the one who knows" suggested I look under the car.
                Days of spraying rust stuff, and being pissed off enough to stick with it finally resulted in removal.
                A can of what you use is on my list (and a few tools mentioned by others).....I'm sure that won't be the only bolt/nut that thinks it wants to be there in place forever.
                Cheers, Sandy

                Comment

                • Harmon C.
                  Extremely Frequent Poster
                  • August 31, 1994
                  • 3228

                  #9
                  Re: Seat track rear bolts

                  I have used a 3/8's drive six point socket and two six inch or one 12 inch extension to remove all the seat bolts on a C-3. The two out board rear bolts are the real problems as they are under the frame corners. On the last rust bucket I worked on I had to torch both nuts off above the frame corner brace.
                  Lyle

                  Comment

                  • Tom R.
                    Expired
                    • April 7, 2008
                    • 135

                    #10
                    Re: Seat track rear bolts

                    Thanks for everyone's advice. If anyone encounters the same difficulties in the future, Sear's (Craftsman) tools has an extractor set that is similar to a socket set. Each socket is tapered and grips the perimeter of the rounded/rusted hex head bolt by cutting into the metal. I was able to at least break off the heads of the bolts and remove the seats. I can get the remnants out by drilling.

                    Comment

                    • Kenneth T.
                      Very Frequent User
                      • March 23, 2008
                      • 631

                      #11
                      Re: Seat track rear bolts

                      Originally posted by Jack Humphrey (17100)
                      I take the seats out of my '71 once a year to thoroughly clean the carpet below AND swap them side to side to even the wear on the drivers side. I'll admit getting a socket onto the rear bolts can be challenging, but with the appropriate length extention the job is very 'doable'...

                      If they're siezed from disuse, then the 'typical' approaches are in order:

                      (1) Shoot the top and bottom side of the bolts with a good brand of 'rust buster' penetrating oil. I use Aero Croil exclusively. Let it sit/soak for several hours.

                      (2) Get you socket onto the head of the bolt and GENTLY but FIRMLY work the bolt in BOTH directions (tighten and loosen) until it starts to move. Do NOT simply WAIL AWAY in one direction (loosen) or you'll probably wind up fatigue fracturing the bolt at its head and then be staring at a drill-out removal!
                      You rotate your seats! That will minimize the butt rash on the piping of the left side of the driver's seat. Learn something new every day, if ya look
                      Last edited by Kenneth T.; September 2, 2009, 06:42 PM.

                      Comment

                      • Joe L.
                        Beyond Control Poster
                        • February 1, 1988
                        • 43201

                        #12
                        Re: Seat track rear bolts

                        Originally posted by Kenneth Tozzi (48795)
                        You rotate your seats! That will minimize the butt rash on the piping of the left side of the driver's seat. Learn something new every day, if ya look
                        Ken-----


                        I first "rotated" the seats in my original owner 1969 about 1973 or 74. I've been doing it periodically ever since.
                        In Appreciation of John Hinckley

                        Comment

                        • Harmon C.
                          Extremely Frequent Poster
                          • August 31, 1994
                          • 3228

                          #13
                          Re: Seat track rear bolts

                          Originally posted by Joe Lucia (12484)
                          Ken-----


                          I first "rotated" the seats in my original owner 1969 about 1973 or 74. I've been doing it periodically ever since.
                          It's a good idea to rotate the seats but lots of shark cars have the shoulder belts that run through the seat backs so it won't work.
                          Lyle

                          Comment

                          • Jack H.
                            Extremely Frequent Poster
                            • April 1, 1990
                            • 9906

                            #14
                            Re: Seat track rear bolts

                            "It's a good idea to rotate the seats but lots of shark cars have the shoulder belts that run through the seat backs so it won't work."

                            But, there are a lucky few of us who have convertibles WITHOUT the shoulder harness option!

                            Comment

                            • Patrick H.
                              Beyond Control Poster
                              • December 1, 1989
                              • 11616

                              #15
                              Re: Seat track rear bolts

                              Originally posted by Joe Lucia (12484)
                              Ken-----


                              I first "rotated" the seats in my original owner 1969 about 1973 or 74. I've been doing it periodically ever since.
                              It doesn't make much difference if you rotate them when they're not being used.



                              Or do you sit in it and go "Vroom Vroom!" on occasion?



                              Patrick
                              Vice-Chairman (West), Michigan Chapter NCRS
                              71 "deer modified" coupe
                              72 5-Star Bowtie / Duntov coupe. https://www.flickr.com/photos/124695...57649252735124
                              2008 coupe
                              Available stickers: Engine suffix code, exhaust tips & mufflers, shocks, AIR diverter valve broadcast code.

                              Comment

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