Trying to remove the rear bolts holding the seats/tracks in and rust has gotten the best of me. I don't believe they've ever been out. The fronts came out with little effort but the rear ones are too close to the track to allow a socket to seat properly and I've rounded the hex heads a little. A 1/2" drive is out of the question and even with a 3/8" drive the socket will not plumb over the bolt. Before I go any further, tell me what I don't know. Is there another way/tool besides a socket?
Seat track rear bolts
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Re: Seat track rear bolts
Trying to remove the rear bolts holding the seats/tracks in and rust has gotten the best of me. I don't believe they've ever been out. The fronts came out with little effort but the rear ones are too close to the track to allow a socket to seat properly and I've rounded the hex heads a little. A 1/2" drive is out of the question and even with a 3/8" drive the socket will not plumb over the bolt. Before I go any further, tell me what I don't know. Is there another way/tool besides a socket?
I'd try a 1/4" drive size with a SIX POINT socket.In Appreciation of John Hinckley- Top
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Re: Seat track rear bolts
Tom
I had the same problem on my 65
I had to cut them out with a sawsall
Be carefull and good luck.
BILL- Top
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Re: Seat track rear bolts
Hi Tom,
I went through similar with my 62......filed enough of the bolt head to get a lockjaw visegrip on it, then went under the car to get the nut off.
This was from the advice of my guru........after 5 days of swearing at it, it was finally off.
As my guru said, "This is going to be a long restoration".
At the time I was thinking "OK, so when does this start being fun?"
It's better now.
Best, Sandy- Top
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Hi Tom,
Since you can see the threaded end of the bolt and mounting plate from the bottom side have you tried any of the rust release products from below?
I've been reading about a product that 'freezes' the bolt that seems to help, but I'm sorry I don't know it's name, perhaps someone will mention it.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan71 Coupe, 350/270, 4 speed
Mason Dixon Chapter
Chapter Top Flight October 2011- Top
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I take the seats out of my '71 once a year to thoroughly clean the carpet below AND swap them side to side to even the wear on the drivers side. I'll admit getting a socket onto the rear bolts can be challenging, but with the appropriate length extention the job is very 'doable'...
If they're siezed from disuse, then the 'typical' approaches are in order:
(1) Shoot the top and bottom side of the bolts with a good brand of 'rust buster' penetrating oil. I use Aero Croil exclusively. Let it sit/soak for several hours.
(2) Get you socket onto the head of the bolt and GENTLY but FIRMLY work the bolt in BOTH directions (tighten and loosen) until it starts to move. Do NOT simply WAIL AWAY in one direction (loosen) or you'll probably wind up fatigue fracturing the bolt at its head and then be staring at a drill-out removal!- Top
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This is good info Jack......the bolt I was trying to remove was front passenger next to center hump. Odd size bolt, different from the rest. Could not seat anything onto it......that's when "the one who knows" suggested I look under the car.
Days of spraying rust stuff, and being pissed off enough to stick with it finally resulted in removal.
A can of what you use is on my list (and a few tools mentioned by others).....I'm sure that won't be the only bolt/nut that thinks it wants to be there in place forever.
Cheers, Sandy- Top
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I have used a 3/8's drive six point socket and two six inch or one 12 inch extension to remove all the seat bolts on a C-3. The two out board rear bolts are the real problems as they are under the frame corners. On the last rust bucket I worked on I had to torch both nuts off above the frame corner brace.Lyle
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Re: Seat track rear bolts
Thanks for everyone's advice. If anyone encounters the same difficulties in the future, Sear's (Craftsman) tools has an extractor set that is similar to a socket set. Each socket is tapered and grips the perimeter of the rounded/rusted hex head bolt by cutting into the metal. I was able to at least break off the heads of the bolts and remove the seats. I can get the remnants out by drilling.- Top
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Re: Seat track rear bolts
I take the seats out of my '71 once a year to thoroughly clean the carpet below AND swap them side to side to even the wear on the drivers side. I'll admit getting a socket onto the rear bolts can be challenging, but with the appropriate length extention the job is very 'doable'...
If they're siezed from disuse, then the 'typical' approaches are in order:
(1) Shoot the top and bottom side of the bolts with a good brand of 'rust buster' penetrating oil. I use Aero Croil exclusively. Let it sit/soak for several hours.
(2) Get you socket onto the head of the bolt and GENTLY but FIRMLY work the bolt in BOTH directions (tighten and loosen) until it starts to move. Do NOT simply WAIL AWAY in one direction (loosen) or you'll probably wind up fatigue fracturing the bolt at its head and then be staring at a drill-out removal!Last edited by Kenneth T.; September 2, 2009, 06:42 PM.- Top
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Re: Seat track rear bolts
I first "rotated" the seats in my original owner 1969 about 1973 or 74. I've been doing it periodically ever since.In Appreciation of John Hinckley- Top
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Re: Seat track rear bolts
It's a good idea to rotate the seats but lots of shark cars have the shoulder belts that run through the seat backs so it won't work.Lyle
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Re: Seat track rear bolts
"It's a good idea to rotate the seats but lots of shark cars have the shoulder belts that run through the seat backs so it won't work."
But, there are a lucky few of us who have convertibles WITHOUT the shoulder harness option!- Top
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Re: Seat track rear bolts
Or do you sit in it and go "Vroom Vroom!" on occasion?
PatrickVice-Chairman (West), Michigan Chapter NCRS
71 "deer modified" coupe
72 5-Star Bowtie / Duntov coupe. https://www.flickr.com/photos/124695...57649252735124
2008 coupe
Available stickers: Engine suffix code, exhaust tips & mufflers, shocks, AIR diverter valve broadcast code.- Top
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