I have a 1970 LS-5 matching #'s etc. My parking brake was not working so I adjusted it by screwing the nut in further where the cables meet underneath the car. I did the same thing on my 1969 and it worked like a charm. The 1970 locks down good in reverse but not in drive. It grabs somewhat but is not enough to pass inspection. My regular brakes seem to be fine. I have adjusted the nut almost as far as it will go. I have not inspected my brake pads---could this be the problem if they are worn down? Like I said the brakes seem to be fine. Any info anyone has to help me would be great. thanks Fred
parking brake adjustment on 70
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Re: parking brake adjustment on 70
The parking brake has shoes and have nothing to do with the regular braking system. You need to loosen the cable you tightened up. Remove the rear wheels and hope the drums are indexed correct so you can adjust the brake shoes for the emergency brake by the old school method. Don't back them off very much or they won't pass a PV. If they don't get hot the adjustment is correct. Then adjust the cable so you can't pull it up all the way. If the PV manual talks about clicks on the E Brake handle do it that way. Some stainless steel E brake shoes were made that will never work as they were undersize. If you happened to get a set of the defective parts they won't adjust to pass a PV..Lyle
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Re: parking brake adjustment on 70
I agree, just like Lyle said.
Adjust the cable tension nuts back off, then pull the wheels and adjust the parking brake shoes using the service manual instructions. Except, just barely bring the shoes back in from contact. Then adjust the cable to give you the required handle pull. You should verify my numbers, but off the top of my head I think that it is 70# pull from the first finger groove on the handle at the 14th click. You want as much adjustment at the cable as possible for future use so that you can successfully re-adjust as needed like you were able to do on the 69. Make sure that the hubs are not hot to the touch after a short drive to verify that the brakes are not dragging. It also might be a good idea to re-burnish the brakes using the service manual instructions to remove any corrosion from the brake contact surface. Do that after verifying that the brakes do not drag though.
I had an issue where my RH parking brake would not hold but my LH would. I pulled my rotor and found that the thin sheet-metal retainer mounted to the upper stud where the 2 parking brake shoes meet had broken. This allowed the shoes to cock out under load. Over time, this had also worn the nubs on the dust shield that also help to keep the shoes aligned, giving even more room to travel. The result was that the RH brake would grab for a second, and then the pads would kick out and offer no resistance. After a bunch of bubba work trying to pass inspection to work on it later, I got it to the point that it would hold well for 2-3 revolutions and then spit the actuation lever completely. Due to frustration, my location and time constraints I ended up just replacing both complete trailing arm assemblies.- Top
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