How to Detail the engine

[Calvin C.]

I am getting ready to put my engine and engine compartment back together. It is a all original 69 t-top, 350 auto. The car was sitting for a long while, only 60,000 miles (too bad) I had to over all engine and trany, no bore needed, now I need to know what to paint what and how to refinish and clean everything in the engine bay. So what books from the NCRS store do I need. I save all the parts they are aged but all in ggod shape.

thanks
cal

[Alan S.]

Re: How to Detail the engine

Hi Calvin,
If I may I'll suggest the "1968-1969 Corvette Technical Information Manual & Judging Guide", the "Vet Vues Fact Book of the 1968-1972 Stingray" by M.F.Dobbins, and the "1969 Stingray Guidebook" by Rick Bizzoco.
A REALLY big help would be to find a 69 (or 68-72) BowTie/Top Flight car in your area who's owner would give you a tour.
Patrick Hulst (a member of this board) has a link that's part of his 'signature' to pictures of his 72 BowTie car that are a GREAT resource.
If I could help with some more suggestions or try to answer a specific question, I'd be happy to try!
Regards,
Alan

[Tom H.]

Re: How to Detail the engine

I would say the judging guide would be my first choice. Hopefully many parts that are original can be re used and cleaned. I did the same with my 71. I repainted what I "HAD" to, but left as much original as I could. Of course it doesn't look all shiny and show quality like some restorations do, but it's real. It just depends on the end result you are trying to achieve. Start with the judging guide. The advise to take a tour of another original car like yours was good. That is always a great tool. Perhaps you could visit a judging meet or depending on your travel schedule, hit Carlisle in a couple of weeks !!!

[Dennis S.]

Re: How to Detail the engine

Calvin

Hold the line on restoring. I just got my BB back from the engine builder and dyno. After glass beading the exhaust manifolds and cleaning the aluminum intake manifold and bellhousing to perfection, it was hard to spray that orange paint on a portion of them. Although I love the over-restored and detailed look, I'm going to stick with the JM and others who say we should restore our cars exactly as to how they left the factory, nothing more.

[Calvin C.]

Re: How to Detail the engine

I am only going to paint only what I have to. I like the older look if it is clean. However if I do paint or restore something I want it to look as best it can.

can

[Steven B.]

Re: How to Detail the engine

Calvin, when I cleaned the firewall and inner fenders I used a large sponge and diluted dish liquid or citris based cleaner. They did not scratch or streak. If you have alot of oil and caked grease use a spray degreaser sparingly until it is removed, then use the diluted dish liquid or citris based cleaner and rinse thoroughly. This allows you to maintain the original finish.

Steve

[Calvin C.]

Re: How to Detail the engine

Will do, I removed everything so that will be easy.

thanks

cal

Calvin, when I cleaned the firewall and inner fenders I used a large sponge and diluted dish liquid or citris based cleaner. They did not scratch or streak. If you have alot of oil and caked grease use a spray degreaser sparingly until it is removed, then use the diluted dish liquid or citris based cleaner and rinse thoroughly. This allows you to maintain the original finish.

Steve

[Calvin C.]

Re: How to Detail the engine

Question on the exhaust manafolds. ItThey have never been off the car before the engine rebuild, they are very dark but clean. Do I just clean them (leave them dark) or should I bead blast them. How cleaned should the other components be. When the book says natural, what exactly does that mean with and old car where the pats are discolored but original.

thanks
cal

[Terry M.]

Re: How to Detail the engine

Natural means without any coating or enhancement of the original surface. Natural will be different for cast iron, stamped steel, forged steel, or cast aluminum. Further you have to know the process used to make the part, and that is why that process is often identified in the early C3 TIM&JG.

Natural also means without any mechanical alteration to the surface, i.e. no “reskinning", wire brushing, added coating, etc. In some cases shot blasting and grinding of “flash” was used to produce the part, so some homework will be required if you want to do a good “restoration” with proper attention to detail.

The NCRS standard is as the car was delivered to the first owner. Could there be some corrosion on some natural parts? YES, but it would have been minimal.

For exhaust manifolds you will have to determine if your engine was painted with the exhaust manifolds installed, or painted after they were installed. For early C3s there are hints about that in the TIM&JG, along with advice on how to “read” the original cylinder case paint to help you in determining the assembly process used for your engine..

[John H.]

Re: How to Detail the engine

Calvin -

The exhaust manifolds on a '69 350 were installed after the engine was painted, so they should be natural cast iron.

[Stephen L.]

Re: How to Detail the engine

Natural also means without any mechanical alteration to the surface, i.e. no “reskinning", wire brushing, added coating, etc. In some cases shot blasting and grinding of “flash” was used to produce the part, so some homework will be required if you want to do a good “restoration” with proper attention to detail.

Terry/All - on exh manifolds, if wire brushing will alter the surface of the as-cast metal, what is the best way to get rust/paint off to get it to bare metal without altering the cast surface?

thanks, sl

[Mike F.]

Re: How to Detail the engine

Terry/All - on exh manifolds, if wire brushing will alter the surface of the as-cast metal, what is the best way to get rust/paint off to get it to bare metal without altering the cast surface?

thanks, sl

I've soaked them in Evaporust with nice results. Then you can spray WD40 on them to keep them from rusting. It'll burn off when driven, just re-apply as necessary.