I took my '67 for a drive last night and every time I pressed on the brake pedal my instrument lights dimmed. When i put the car away, the headlights retracted very slowly. I turned off the radio and they moved a little faster but still slower than usual. I got a new battery in April. Does this sound like it might be the alternator?
'67 small block alternator
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Re: '67 small block alternator
Glad to help Keith. We need 3 readings. First of course, make sure batt terminals are clean and tight. If the battery is the type where you can check water levels, do so and add if needed. Now on to the tests:
1. Measure voltage at rest. engine off. write down voltage.
2. Start engine and measure at idle, and write it down.
3. Increase engine to around 12-1500 rpm and measure voltage at terminals again and record. Give me the results. Bill.- Top
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Re: '67 small block alternator
Keith,
You didn't say whether the alternator was original to the car and motor or not, but check the drive pulley on the alternator to make sure you have the correct size pulley for your motor combination.- Top
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Re: '67 small block alternator
Hi Bill; I have some errands to run today, while I'm out I'll p/u a volt meter (don't have one) and take those readings and relay them to you. I really appreciate your time on this. BTW, is the alternator a numbered part, and judged accordingly? This car rec'd a 98 point regional top flight back in '88, and nothing has been changed since. I'm assuming the alternator is original to the car. Regards; Keith- Top
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Re: '67 small block alternator
Yes, alternator is numbered and date coded. The same goes for the external voltage regulator. It takes both working in properly, in combination, for the charging system to function appropriately.
What Bill is looking for from the test data is for you to report one battery voltage that's 'low' with the engine off/charging system not producing (something in the below 13 VDC range).
Then, when you start the engine and the alternator spins up, the voltage regulator senses the need to re-charge the battery and instructs the alternator to turn on and provide charging current. Voltage across the battery should climb to something in excess of 13.8 VDC (perhaps as high as 15 VDC).
While alternators are not as prone as generators to having output vary with engine RPM, there IS a modest relationship. That's why he wants you to rev the engine above idle to get the alternator working higher on its 'cut through' curve.
Getting 'er up to 1500-2000 RPM should deliver the lion's share of the alternator's rated charging current. That's IF the alternator, voltage regulator and associated interconnect wiring are intact...- Top
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