66 Control Arms

[Jim S.]

I was going to purchase the latest 66 Tech Manual, but I guess I will have to wait until "Late Summer".

So does anyone out there have any opinions on whether or not the lower control Arms are secured at the front with just the two bolts into the Nut Plate with no Lock Washer ? Like wise for the rear Bolt (No Lock Washer) . Mine did have lock washers,and I was going to reinstall them until I read the TM and Am. I see that the Tech Manual, and The Assembly Manual I now have doesn't call for them.

Were mine Bubba added ,or a running change in Mid 66?

Jim

[John H.]

Re: 66 Control Arms

So does anyone out there have any opinions on whether or not the lower control Arms are secured at the front with just the two bolts into the Nut Plate with no Lock Washer ? Like wise for the rear Bolt (No Lock Washer) .

Jim -

No lock washers on the two front bolts, and the rear bolt (with special star washer under the head) has a Stover prevailing-torque lock nut - no lock washer there either.

[Jim S.]

Re: 66 Control Arms

Jim -

No lock washers on the two front bolts, and the rear bolt (with special star washer under the head) has a Stover prevailing-torque lock nut - no lock washer there either.

John,
Assuming that the "really huge nut "I have is a Stover PTLN , I guess I am all set !

Thanks for the reply!

Jim

[Michael H.]

Re: 66 Control Arms

So does anyone out there have any opinions on whether or not the lower control Arms are secured at the front with just the two bolts into the Nut Plate with no Lock Washer ? Like wise for the rear Bolt (No Lock Washer) . Mine did have lock washers,and I was going to reinstall them until I read the TM and Am. I see that the Tech Manual, and The Assembly Manual I now have doesn't call for them.

Were mine Bubba added ,or a running change in Mid 66?

Jim

Nope, it wasn't Bubbaized IF you have an early 66. This was the year that these items changed in mid production.
From start of 66 production to some point in mid production, there WERE lock washers used with the bolts that secured the double nut plate.
On the rear nut, it was a NON self locking hi-nut for early cars. Not a prevailing torque design.

I don't know exactly when this change occured but it was at least three or four months into production. Possibly later.

The standard nut and lock washer for early 66 was the same used for all 63-65's. Any 63-65 AIM will show the L/washers and part numbers for non locking nuts.

The same is true for the nuts used for the upper control arm studs. (the stud and nut that secure the arm shaft and alignment shims. Early 66 cars used standard non locking hi-nuts with lock washers while later 66 had prevailing torque nuts without lock washers.

If you have an early 66, use a 65 AIM for the correct part numbers and torque specs for front susp fasteners.

[Gary B.]

Upper control arm studs

Michael,

My July 20 build date '66 had regular, double-thick nuts (non-prevailing torque) on the the upper control arm studs.

Gary

[Joe L.]

Re: 66 Control Arms

John,
Assuming that the "really huge nut "I have is a Stover PTLN , I guess I am all set !

Thanks for the reply!

Jim

Jim-----


Assuming the threads on the nut and bolt are clean and in good shape, it's easy to tell if the nut is a self-locking type. If it will not thread onto the bolt by hand, it's a self-locking nut. If it threads on by hand, it's not.

A Stover-type lock nut has a slightly convex-shaped top.

[Jim S.]

Re: 66 Control Arms

Nope, it wasn't Bubbaized IF you have an early 66. This was the year that these items changed in mid production.
From start of 66 production to some point in mid production, there WERE lock washers used with the bolts that secured the double nut plate.
On the rear nut, it was a NON self locking hi-nut for early cars. Not a prevailing torque design.

I don't know exactly when this change occured but it was at least three or four months into production. Possibly later.

The standard nut and lock washer for early 66 was the same used for all 63-65's. Any 63-65 AIM will show the L/washers and part numbers for non locking nuts.

The same is true for the nuts used for the upper control arm studs. (the stud and nut that secure the arm shaft and alignment shims. Early 66 cars used standard non locking hi-nuts with lock washers while later 66 had prevailing torque nuts without lock washers.

If you have an early 66, use a 65 AIM for the correct part numbers and torque specs for front susp fasteners.

My 66 is a 20 XXX thousand (april ) .

I have no idea which nut I have so I have enclosed a few Pics. Sounds like I can go either way as long as I have the correct nut on the back bolt. You guys tell me !

Jim

[Jim S.]

Re: 66 Control Arms

Jim-----


Assuming the threads on the nut and bolt are clean and in good shape, it's easy to tell if the nut is a self-locking type. If it will not thread onto the bolt by hand, it's a self-locking nut. If it threads on by hand, it's not.

A Stover-type lock nut has a slightly convex-shaped top.

Hi Joe,

Just got done posting some Pics . However by using your definition of hand threading , I do not have the self locking Nut , as I can easily thread it all the way by hand. It is a "beefy" guy though !

Thanks to you and Mike .

Jim

[Joe L.]

Re: 66 Control Arms

My 66 is a 20 XXX thousand (april ) .

I have no idea which nut I have so I have enclosed a few Pics. Sounds like I can go either way as long as I have the correct nut on the back bolt. You guys tell me !

Jim

Jim-----


The photo on the right depicts a lock nut. However, it's not the style lock-nut I've typically seen used for this application. However, it may have been used; it's functionally equivalent to the style I've seen used.

[Michael H.]

Re: 66 Control Arms

My 66 is a 20 XXX thousand (april ) .

I have no idea which nut I have so I have enclosed a few Pics. Sounds like I can go either way as long as I have the correct nut on the back bolt. You guys tell me !

Jim

Jim, which style nut did the car have when you disassembled it? Was there a lock washer under it?

[Jim S.]

Re: 66 Control Arms

Michael,

The pictures I posted are of the bolt and nut and Lock washer that I took off the car, They are Just replated or re anodized.

Here are pictures before I touched anything. Notice the lock washers on both the front and rear locatoins on both sides.

Jim

[Jim S.]

Re: 66 Control Arms

That was the right side , here is the left side.

Jim

[Rich P.]

Re: 66 Control Arms

Jim,

what are the headmarkings on the rear bolts If they are M they would be the style with lock washer. Most and again I say most rear bolts that used a lock nut had a WB headmarking. I don't have the measurements off hand but the 2 bolts have a different length, in 3 different areas 1-over all ,2- shoulder and 3- threads. An easy test to see if your bolts are the long style is to try and run the nut up tight with the arm installed on the frame and if you run out of threads before you can snug the bolt you have the early bolts.

Rich

[Jim S.]

Re: 66 Control Arms

Rich,

The rear ,single bolt is a "M" head marking. The front two are "TR" head markings

Jim

[Joe L.]

Re: 66 Control Arms

Rich,

The rear ,single bolt is a "M" head marking. The front two are "TR" head markings

Jim

Jim-----


Where did the self-locking nut that you pictured above come from? From the photos that you just posted, it looks like your car came with the standard nut and lockwasher set-up for the rear lower shaft retaining bolts. So, how does the self-locking nut you have pictured figure into all of this?