Midyear Trailer Tie Down Question

[Steve G.]

I'm trying to find out how others secure there Corvettes to trailers . I criss cross the front tie downs to the lower control arms from the d rings and its very secure . The back I go straight from the trailer d rings to the rear spring at the outer most point . What happened this last time is the rear of the car hopped over to one side of the trailer a few inches. Is there a better place to secure the tie downs on the rear of a midyear for trailering ? I would like to criss cross the straps but cant find a good place to secure them. Thanks

[Terry M.]

[Joel T.]

Re: Midyear Trailer Tie Down Question

I'm trying to find out how others secure there Corvettes to trailers . I criss cross the front tie downs to the lower control arms from the d rings and its very secure . The back I go straight from the trailer d rings to the rear spring at the outer most point . What happened this last time is the rear of the car hopped over to one side of the trailer a few inches. Is there a better place to secure the tie downs on the rear of a midyear for trailering ? I would like to criss cross the straps but cant find a good place to secure them. Thanks

Steve;

Interesting, I never knew about the "factory" tie down points as Terry outlined... I need to check that out. In the meantime here is what I have been doing with my C2's with success.

I have a set of Mac's Straps..

In the front, the short "extensions" as I will call them ("D" ring on each end) wrap through the lower "A" arms and then the rachet strap connects the D rings to the font tie down point in a straight line (no crossing)

In the rear, the extension straps go around the bearing housing/shock mount so that there is no side to side slippage possible. The D rings get connected to the rachet strap and then criss-crossed to the rear tie down points.

I tighten the straps as much as I can and make sure the handles are all the way down so as to prevent unwinding in transit.

The car is in 1st gear and the parking brake is on.

I've done the this a number of time with good success and ho hopping out back.

Hope this helps...

Joel

[Thomas N.]

Re: Midyear Trailer Tie Down Question

Steve;

Interesting, I never knew about the "factory" tie down points as Terry outlined... I need to check that out. In the meantime here is what I have been doing with my C2's with success.

I have a set of Mac's Straps..

In the front, the short "extensions" as I will call them ("D" ring on each end) wrap through the lower "A" arms and then the rachet strap connects the D rings to the font tie down point in a straight line (no crossing)

In the rear, the extension straps go around the bearing housing/shock mount so that there is no side to side slippage possible. The D rings get connected to the rachet strap and then criss-crossed to the rear tie down points.

I tighten the straps as much as I can and make sure the handles are all the way down so as to prevent unwinding in transit.

The car is in 1st gear and the parking brake is on.

I've done the this a number of time with good success and ho hopping out back.


Joel

I don't agree with this. I have seen bent suspension parts more with cars that get winched on. Also if the car is shaking around with the car in gear or the park brake on you can damage a trans syncro or the brake assembly. I have used this info with great sucess:

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/3000/trailer3.html

The factory tye downs are the way to go.
I also use a few heavy RV style wheel chocks.

[Joel T.]

Re: Midyear Trailer Tie Down Question

I don't agree with this. I have seen bent suspension parts more with cars that get winched on. Also if the car is shaking around with the car in gear or the park brake on you can damage a trans syncro or the brake assembly. I have used this info with great sucess:

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/3000/trailer3.html

The factory tye downs are the way to go.
I also use a few heavy RV style wheel chocks.

Tom;

Thanks for straightening me out... The last thing I want to do is damage the car... I did a quick read of this material and will print and follow it!

Thanks again, I really appreciate the lesson!

Joel

[Alan D.]

Re: Midyear Trailer Tie Down Question

I've done the front same as you with criss cross and do rears straight going around the half shafts. Was told not to use factory holes due to age of car (steel). But willing to learn!

[Mark P.]

Re: Midyear Trailer Tie Down Question

I have seen quite a few Corvettes secured with basket straps over each wheel.

Are these a good way to secure a car in a trailor ?

I liked it because nothing is in contact with the restored chassis and therefore no cosmetic damage.

See attached photo of a strapped down 65.

[Jack H.]

Re: Midyear Trailer Tie Down Question

Another term is 'tire nets'... That's what I use exclusively and I love 'em!

[David R.]

Re: Midyear Trailer Tie Down Question

This gets talked about so much I finally took some pictures as best I could with car still in trailer. This is on '78 looking toward rear of car from under drivers door for perspective. I have not used the frame tie down holes yet, just got my hooks, and car is still stored in the trailer. Next time car gets out I will switch to the frame holes.
Couldn't get pic of front holes.

[Terry M.]

Re: Midyear Trailer Tie Down Question

Dave,
Be sure to use the one with the bent down edges -- not the one next to it. The one with the bent edges has an extra layer of steel inside the frame to reinforce it.

Your front holes are likely in a different position than the front holes on a C2. I know the metal bumper C3s have the front holes (in the front crossmember by the lower inboard control arm shaft) in a different location than the C2s. I am not sure of the exact location of the front factory tie down holes on a 1978 though.