1958 heater box fiberglass cover
Hi, What is the trick to fit the fiberglass heater cover. I have replaced the kick panel and it is thicker than the original. The cover seems to wide now and it won't line up with the holes on the radio console. The bottom of the heater cover wont clear the transmission hump to line up. Its binding there. I have a good half inch it's got to come towards and up the console area. The heater cover is not high enough into the dash pad area under the assist bar either. Its close but no way can I use the original short screws. I'm afraid if I force it any more it will crack. Any ideas would be appreciated. Regards, Susan
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Re: 1958 heater box fiberglass cover
Susan, I do not nor have I ever owned a '58 Corvette. I did however own a 1960 for over 25 years. I and possibly others are confused about the heater box cover you are referring to. Could it be that you are talking about the box that controls whether your heat or outside air is blowing into the inside of the car at your feet or at the base of the windshield for defrost? If my memory serves me correctly the box I am referring to was originally made of a specially treated cardboard as was the earlier models (53' to 57'). Unfortunately this part is located just below your cowl vent where water was sure to drip or run down to it in the event that either the vent gasket is deteriorated or the vent was left open and rain and water came in. I have seen repros in metal and fiberglass of which some may require tweaking to get a suitable fit. Perhaps a picture would help myself and others to see what your problem is. I have been told many times that a picture is worth a thousand words. -
Re: 1958 heater box fiberglass cover
Susan, they are tight even with original parts. I had the repro kick panels and I like to never got the heater cover to fit in my '60. Al Knoch's kick panels are closer to the thickness of the originals than the ones CC sells. Are you using the original heater cover? I was using a repro cover also and ended up grinding the side that connects to the center console to get a better fit since they are thicker than the originals also.Comment
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Re: 1958 heater box fiberglass cover
Hi Ted, I did some grinding myself to take the tab off the passenger side as well, as it would not clear the kick panel chrome trim. Marked the checkerboard as it went in. I think I will cut some of the radio console side to shorten the length to clear the transmission tunnel. I hate to do it but have no other ideas. My heater cover is still original. I do have the original kick panel but would have to respray and mount the chrome again to use it. There has to be a way to get it in..... I only have a 1/2" to go.....it's going to be a long 1/2" I'm afraid.
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Re: 1958 heater box fiberglass cover
Susan, They're a tight fit. First I tape the passenger side of the center console to protect the paint. Then I position the right side of the heater cover first so it is positioned on the kick panel where it screws in and the console side is positioned toward the seat so I'm pushing it toward the front of the car to insert it. Vertically it's also positioned up next to the dash where it's supposed to sit. I push slowly, cuss a few times, and guide it into place until the console side slips into the recessed area. Hope this helps.Comment
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Re: 1958 heater box fiberglass cover
Hi Ted. I got the heater box cover in. I did not have to cut it!!! The stainless chrome trim at the top of the radio console was the big problem. I had to have that trim on top of the cover rather than under, but it is in.... with lots of wiggling anf jijjling. Susan
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