Seems several people are at the same point with header bar questions.
To Tom, I have the number for the 2 part SEM epoxy at the office if that helps you. Fuzor is the one most people are recommending but it's not carried everywhere. The SEM product needs a gun as does the fuzor. The SEM product however does not require the fibreglass be prep'ed with an epoxy glue.
After a couple weekends I've pried off the badly rusted old header bar, and tookl a bit of fibreglass with, but did not beak anything or penetrate to the front.
1. Is it best to use the header adhesive as a filler for the lost fibreglass/SMC (it's a 77) or use a long strand bondo to fill first.
2. The original '77 header bar had steel bars welded as re-enforcement on top of the main bar. The replacement was formed to match the offset where the additional gauge would have been. Does it make sense to bond or weld a steel plate behind - the replacement steel seems a bit thin to me by itself.
Thanks all for the expertise.
Michael B.
To Tom, I have the number for the 2 part SEM epoxy at the office if that helps you. Fuzor is the one most people are recommending but it's not carried everywhere. The SEM product needs a gun as does the fuzor. The SEM product however does not require the fibreglass be prep'ed with an epoxy glue.
After a couple weekends I've pried off the badly rusted old header bar, and tookl a bit of fibreglass with, but did not beak anything or penetrate to the front.
1. Is it best to use the header adhesive as a filler for the lost fibreglass/SMC (it's a 77) or use a long strand bondo to fill first.
2. The original '77 header bar had steel bars welded as re-enforcement on top of the main bar. The replacement was formed to match the offset where the additional gauge would have been. Does it make sense to bond or weld a steel plate behind - the replacement steel seems a bit thin to me by itself.
Thanks all for the expertise.
Michael B.
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