69 center gauge and shifter console install...

[Greg L.]

I know they can be a bear to install so before I dive into this I thought I should check and see if I can get any good pointers. I checked the service manual and I tend to think that it is way over simplified. Obviously the guy that wrote the book never worked on these cars!

Anyways, right now I have reinstalled the speedo and tach cluster but that's it. Should I install the center gauge cluster next?....or the shifter console next?.... I was even thinking of putting them together first and then installing them as an assembly because those two nuts at the bottom of the center cluster are all but impossible to get at once it's installed. I also have to be gentle so that I don't break the top of the gauge console so I don't really want to get too many things together before I slide it all back into place....

There's probably more than one way to skin this cat so any thoughts on making this as painless as possible(for the car, I'm not worried about myself) would really be appreciated.

thanks

[Joseph H.]

Re: 69 center gauge and shifter console install...

Greg,
I have been working on mine also, but not to the extent you have. My left dash pad in in the car, but I left all the screws to the top dash pad out. The center console is in place, but the plate and heater control are loose, also of course the right dash pad is out. I can now remove/install the center gauge bezel without to much difficulty. when installing the bottom nuts are already on the studs and there is enough play from the lose top pad to get the bezel in. I am barely able to then tighten the bottom nuts with a 1/4 inch drive socket set.

Regards,
Joe

[Michael G.]

Re: 69 center gauge and shifter console install...

Greg,
I can only comment on the procedure that worked for me. Others may have a different (better) procedure. I start with the shifter console. Leave the center plate out for now and dont lock it down completely, leave it loose enough to not fight the guage cluster install. Lay some protective material at the front of the shifter console so you can rest the guage cluster on it while making the connections. Those two bottom fasteners can do damage. It's best the have the bottom nuts backed down quite a bit so the nuts dont interfere when hooking the bottom of cluster into the mount. I still find getting a nut driver with a universal in through the side covers of the shifter console the way to tighten them. The rest is gravy. Good luck.

[Jim T.]

Re: 69 center gauge and shifter console install...

Wonder how many C3 owners did not reinstall/thighten the two lower nuts?
Something the judges can't check and the screws on the sides hold the guage cluster pretty secure.

[Reba W.]

Re: 69 center gauge and shifter console install...

I am an interior judge, Jim, and mine are not installed. You are right in that the assembly is secure without them.

[Paul O.]

Re: 69 center gauge and shifter console install...

Joe Lucia in a past thread stated that he would install wing nuts to allow easier removal. I thought that was a great idea and why I did not think of that.

Paul 18046

[Terry M.]

Re: 69 center gauge and shifter console install...

No offense guys, but they are not all that difficult -- and I have large hands.

1/4-inch drive ratchet -- about 4 to 6-inch extension, a good universal joint (not a worn out one that flops around) and a deep socket are the tools to use. You can get to the nuts through the openings of those small side panels at the front of the center console.

The real trick is to never take the nuts all the way off. The center console is slotted where those studs go for exactly this reason.

I'll paraphrase Joe's question: "Do you think the Chevrolet engineers put those studs there because the interior would go together better without them?"

[Greg L.]

Re: 69 center gauge and shifter console install...

Thanks everyone that helps.

I guess I'll put the center console in first and then the gauge console. Leaving the two little nuts off IS tempting but the aircraft mechanic in me says that in no matter how "stupid" a spot a fastener might be in, it has to be done up! I have relatively small hands so I guess if Terry can do it, I can also.

This might not as bad a job as I was thinking after all.

[Joe T.]

Re: 69 center gauge and shifter console install...

I've done this MORE than once and more than once is one time too many! My recollection from the last time was, as mentioned above, to leave the nuts started and try to slide the studs into the slots. Its not as easy as it sounds, but its better than chasing a dropped item under the console. Good luck ... joe
OBTW: I could never bring myself to leave them off either.

[Kenneth T.]

Re: 69 center gauge and shifter console install...

Thanks everyone that helps.

I guess I'll put the center console in first and then the gauge console. Leaving the two little nuts off IS tempting but the aircraft mechanic in me says that in no matter how "stupid" a spot a fastener might be in, it has to be done up! I have relatively small hands so I guess if Terry can do it, I can also.

This might not as bad a job as I was thinking after all.

Greg,
Having your A/P helps, I'm an old Eastern Air Lines mech. I realize this may seem patronizing, but I must say take your time and go easy, you do not want to crack the center console at it's thin point. I have found that people get so determined and then so close to the goal that at the last second a slight push and click it is gone. Also, I agree with Terry a 1/4" drive socket and a little Tai Chi type twisting and you are there.
Be careful with the sharp sheet metal, blood is difficult to get out of the carpet I need to fix my clock this spring so I will be back there too.

[Terry M.]

Re: 69 center gauge and shifter console install...

If your 1/4-inch universal joint is a little limp, I have found a couple turns of electrician's tape will firm it right up. 3M #77 is my fav

[Michael M.]

Re: 69 center gauge and shifter console install...

On the universal joint topic, years ago I bought a set (1/4", 3/8" and 1/2") that have springs on the to keep them from flopping around. It works great, so just a thought if you want to add to your tool collection. They have served me well over the years.