Lacquer Paint-warning

[Bill W.]

Re: Lacquer Paint-warning

When you prime a Corvette the body should be as smooth as possible. I wet sand with 220 then 400 before primer. whats not there cant shrink. Your problem sounds like poor body prep. and lack of sunshine and dry time . Lacquer does not hide mistakes and shortcuts like urathane.....Bill

[Ray C.]

Re: Lacquer Paint-warning

I have painted two Corvettes using PPG lacquers. The first was a 1961 Sateen Silver. I used 800 grit for the finial wet sand of the high build primer. What I did not realize is that the sandpaper supplier provide me with a European grade paper and the grits are courser compared with a US grade with the same number. The PPG lacquer bridged over the 500 + or- scratches form the European sand paper and look great until it hit the sun light. The lacquered shrunk or leveled into the sand paper scratches and showed in the paint.

The second Corvette was a 1963 Ermine White. I completed the same process except for I used 3-M brand sanding products and final sand using 800 grit on the high build primer. The paint looked great and took a deduct for over restoration. I only wet sanded from the belt line up and then buffed.

Ray

[Dick W.]

Re: Lacquer Paint-warning

You can paint a car with modern paints and take no more point deductions than you would with lacquer. I am not talking about theory, I have done it several times. It just takes more work with the urethane paints to get it right. I do not understand why everyone complains that the scoring mandates lacquer? Just that it appears to be consistant with factory applied finishes. Lacquer paint is about as good a top coat as peanut butter would be.

Color matching is a problem with all paints today. The shape of the metallic particles is different from what we had 20 years ago. Metallics will appear quite a bit brighter, whether it is lacquer or urethane. Just keep shooting test panels until you get the look that you want.

[Steven B.]

Re: Lacquer Paint-warning

First of all thank you all who responded to my question on restoring my lacquer paint finish. I do not want anyone to go through what I am so I am posting this thread.. We have enough problems restoring these cars. As mentioned I paid in excess of $11,000 to have my 67' painted it's original color(Sunfire Yellow). It has been over two years now since the job. It is now exhibiting (thru out the car) sanding scratch type lines and swirling type ridges such as you see from worm ridges in mud when you lift a rock from muddy ground. Please advise what has happened as my car has to be completely repaired. I've been told that the problem is due to incorrect preparation prior to color coat. By the way, the car was painted in the winter if that makes any difference such as low humidity, etc. I do have other corvettes that have lacquer finishes, painted several years ago and show none of these problems.
Thank you, Jerry

Jerry, years ago did quick test shots of nitrocellulose lacquer and acrylic on spare panels to compare colors. Parts of the panels were hastily prepped without proper sanding or sealing. The lines and swirl types you describe showed through due to lack of complete and proper sanding and sealing.

Steve

[Tom A.]

Re: Lacquer Paint-warning

Jerry,
I'm sorry to hear about your paint difficulties. The problem is multifaceted. Lacquer as topcoat is a very high solvent finish, old fiberglass absorbs solvents like a sponge. When large amounts of solvent are applied over a porous surface they cause the fiberglass, fillers etc. to swell or retain solvents, as the solvents evaporate these areas shrink at different rates and continue to shrink throughout the life of the finish. The high solvent nature of the finish also means the solids portion of the finish leaves little little material build and offer poor fill capabilities. At this point anything you add to the top coat will be a tempoary fix only.
Prevention of shrinkage requires a number of processes to address each of the problem areas. Starting with the fiberglass the surface must be well sealed to prevent solvent absorbtion. There are many methods available and each shop has its own preference. In my experience (over 40 yrs. with Corvettes) I've found only one dependable process and that is to seal the surface with spray gel coat. I'm not refering to the marine type which normally produces a very hard surface but an automotive grade which has a less dense surface that is easier to sand. Mil build is critical so follow directions carefully. Follow gel coat with a high grade filling primer - polyester, unrethane or some type of catalyzed two part material to facilitate block sanding to remove surface imperfections. After primer it is important to use a good sealer before topcoat.
The choice of topcoat is up to you, a NCRS standard apearance is possible with a variety of finishes from laquer to b/c- c/c (clear coat).
I'm not sure why thre is still so much confusion on allowable finishes. The standard deduct table for paint clearly states the criteria is based on appearance, not only the standard deducts but anywhere there is reference to paint or any other area you will constantly find the word appearance. There are more examples of excellent original appearing finishes that are not laquer than you would ever imagine. You can,t tell because they appear correct. It matters little what you hear from whomever. The judging standard remains what it has been for years - appearance. Even if we know for a fact that a finish is clearcoat the standard remains the same, it also refers to obvious use of alternate finishes. I hope you find a workable correction for your finish.
Tom Ames

[Chris F.]

Re: Lacquer Paint-warning

I am sorry to hear about the paint issue it can be very frustrating. What I have found is you really need the painter as your friend.
We repainted my '72 BB in two pack Glasurit paint an I must say the quality of the paint is the best I have seen (expensive though). The car was painted with an orange peel effect and looks to original standards.
You can't paint these cars in a weekend the GRP just acts like a sponge and draws more from the primer, filler and paint causing shrinkage and blemishes.
We used a two pack sealer and painted my car over three months, one coat every month and I have found a year on that there is still some shrinkage.
As I said the painter is my friend and the cost of the job excluding materials was $1500. I have seen many good paint jobs and his is up there.
I feel these cars need to be painted over time and let them dry right out betwen coats.

[Jerry A.]

Re: Lacquer Paint-warning

Everyone,
You are very welcome and thank you for the great replies. I sincerely hope these posts will prevent the disaster I'm going thru. By the way it is a great car, a 435 horse convertible, J-56, F-41, power steering, real side pipe car, shoulder belts, all tinted wdws., tank sticker,etc.

[Steven B.]

Re: Lacquer Paint-warning

'Send it to Tom Ames. He will do it right.