Body off wheel alignment - pros and cons

[Bob S.]

Taking my '59 to paint in the next couple of weeks and will be taking the body back off for the paint process. While the body is off I plan to finish some "underneath" items such as exhaust, shocks, stabilizer bar, rebound straps, etc. I was thinking of making a temporary support for the steering column and taking it up to my local shop and having a 4 wheel alignment done. (This was a total frame restoration) The question is - is there any problem setting camber with the weight difference with the body off?
Also, I have 205/65R15's mounted on the wheels while I am doing the resoration. Should I put the new 205/75R15's on for the alignment? I worry about Bubba at the alignment shop and a brand new set of wide white walls.
Thanks - Sully

[Joseph K.]

Re: Body off wheel alignment - pros and cons

Sully,

I recommend that the weight be on the car. The alignment will change with with the body on. With the tires you may get opinions that you can and can't.

Joe

[Bob S.]

Re: Body off wheel alignment - pros and cons

That's kinda what I thought. I also thought of strapping tube sandbags to the frame rails to simulate the body weight. That brings up the next question - what is the average body wieght of a '59?

[Bill I.]

Re: Body off wheel alignment - pros and cons

Now that brings up a question maybe John Z can help on this one. At the factory, when in the process of building did the car get aligned? Was the body on? Bill.

[Bill M.]

Re: Body off wheel alignment - pros and cons

Don't waste your money. Align the car when it is complete. The alignment parameters that are set by the factory are set at the end of the assembly line. (Some alignment parameters (like camber) may not be set at the end of the line, but they are monitored on COMPLETED vehicles; the adjustments made (revised shim packs) are done the same for all of 'em.)

FYI on alignment: 4-wheel alignment will be done by attachment to your wheels. The difference between 4-wheel and 2-wheel for your C1 will be that the front end alignment will take into account any misalignment of your rear axle to the frame. If your rear axle is dead square to the frame, there is no difference between 2-wheel and 4-wheel.

[Thomas N.]

Re: Body off wheel alignment - pros and cons

That's kinda what I thought. I also thought of strapping tube sandbags to the frame rails to simulate the body weight. That brings up the next question - what is the average body wieght of a '59?

Hi:
I wouldn't waste your money doing an alignment now, because you will need to do it after the car is complete and assembled. Even if you knew the weight of the body, do you know the distribution of the weight over the chassis (front and rear wheels)? Also, do you know the weight of the interior/distribution of this weight? Plus you need to account for the bumpers, accessories, weight of fuel, and other factors. The distribution of the weight is critical in how the suspension will settle into place. After you get the car together, you might want to roughly align the toe-in and such, so you can at least drive it to the alignment shop, if you are not planning on trailering it to the alignment shop.

[William C.]

Re: Body off wheel alignment - pros and cons

As a direct answer the factory alignment, was at the end of the line after a "Jounce" section to settle the suspension. Full complement of body and drivetrain including interior. (and a little gas in the tank)

[John H.]

Re: Body off wheel alignment - pros and cons

Now that brings up a question maybe John Z can help on this one. At the factory, when in the process of building did the car get aligned? Was the body on? Bill.

Bill -

Assuming from the logo on your post that you're talking about midyears, caster/camber was set on the Chassis Line while the front suspension was compressed to normal ride height and adapters were bolted to the hubs for the "geo-machine" which positioned them at the specified angles; the operators then stuff-shimmed both upper control arm shaft-to-frame gaps and torqued the nuts, disengaged the machine, and removed the hub adapters.

Toe-in was set with a pit-installed machine after the car was driven off the line; the driver affixed a tool to the steering wheel and door that held the steering wheel level, and the machine operator in the pit turned the tie rod sleeves to achieve the correct toe-in angles on each side, then positioned the clamps correctly and tightened the tie rod clamp nuts. Photo below of the toe-in pit, showing the operator's instrumentation.

[Bob S.]

Re: Body off wheel alignment - pros and cons

Thanks for all of the replies. I yeild to the consensus. Don't get ahead of myself. I'll wait to get the final assembly before taking it in for alignment. Thanks again for the input. Great forum - Sully

[Dennis A.]

Re: Body off wheel alignment - pros and cons

It is very important to drive the car a few miles to let the springs settle in. On C1 cars, take note of the two grease Zerks that hide the eccentric bolt to adjust the front suspension geometry. Most alignment shops have no Idea....

[Bob S.]

Re: Body off wheel alignment - pros and cons

Thanks for the heads up Dennis. While the body is off I plan on getting very familiar with everything underneath. I'll take a close look at all those fittings.

[Stewart A.]

Re: Body off wheel alignment - pros and cons

Great photo John. You seem to have a great selection. I have never seen an alignment section on any production line thanks dude !!
Stewy