61 tune up
I am about to attempt to check timing etc. on my 283 270hp. My plan is to check the point gap first with a feeler gage, then adjust the timing with a timing light, then maybe check for max. vacume. Can anyone direct me to information or provide tips for correct tune up procedure? Do the dual points cause any special problems or procedure? The car has been running hot and I've just got it to the point where I can let it idle long enought to check things by using 2 jars of 'Water Wetter' with distilled water for coolant. I'm a bit out of my depth with this, but I want to do it myself if I can. Thanks for any direction or tips in advance
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Re: 61 tune up
As you don't have a vacuum advance on the distributor used with the 270hp engine, the timing is best set at as slow an idle as you can mantain, then check the function of the advance system by running the engine up to the point where the advance is "all in" and you should see 28 degrees of difference from the idle setting at an engine rpm of about 3800 rpm. For driving and reducing temp in "around town" operation, get a spare distributor with vacuum advance and use that for cruising. It can be manuvered to fit if you locate the distributor vacuum in a manner similar to that used on the later "Shark" cars and that will also help to reduce temps at cruising speeds. Have the distributor set up to the 1965 365hp dist specs if possible and you will be in good shape. The current distributor likely should be disassembled and cleaned, internally before setting off on these adventures as the weights can get a little sticky over the years.Bill Clupper #618 -
Re: 61 tune up
For around town...best install a Breakerless Electronic Ignition conversion. (Single Wire provides stock appearance)Comment
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Re: 61 tune up
When my car was in Oregon in the late 60's I didn't have any trouble with over heating. The temperatures down here in Perth are usually higher than encountered before, but I just want to get it running the best it can. I haven't found anyone down here that 'grew up' with 283 270 hp engines.
I really don't want to use a lot of aftermarket stuff on my car. I want it to work like it should work. It's original and I'm going to keep it that way. I know Dennis said it "looks" correct using single wire electronic points, but I'd know and again, why can't I get it running correctly? Maybe I'm being a like funny about this. After all it does have a new 'correct' aluminium radiator and the original engine has been rebuilt, but still I should be able to get it running so the temperature doesn't start to climb every stop light I encounter. Anyway, hopefully I'll get down to my shed this week and see how I go. Thank you for the pointers, if anyone else has tune up tips or suggestions I thank you in advance.Comment
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Re: 61 tune up
Check the timing curve to make sure you are getting the proper advance. That is as easy place to start as any.Bill Clupper #618Comment
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Re: 61 tune up
If you're going to do a serious tune up, you might want to go out and get yourself new sets of plugs and points/condensor, maybe even consider a new cap and rotor. It all depends on where you are in your maintenance program, i.e. how long has it been since these parts were checked/replaced? The dual point distributor needs close attention. I used to always pull mine and check the weights and springs for proper action and cleanliness, etc. Also, when setting it up with new points and condensor, it is nice to have it on a distributor machine - save that, at least in a bench vice so you can look closely at what you are doing. You want to adjust them not only for gap, but alignment as well. I used to set mine just a tad loose to allow for wear in of the rubbing blocks, i.e. a long range tune up. If done right, you will start at the high end of the dwell tolerance and be dead on in a thousand miles or so. Apply just a small (tinsy) amount of lube on the distributor cam. If you are going to reuse the rotor and cap, it pays to just sand off the contact surfaces with emory cloth to remove any corrosion or pitting. Wipe out the inside of the cap of any red dust and make sure there are no spark leakage paths.
There are many other items you can do yourself, of course, but it just depends on your equipment and, above all, learn as much as you can and use common sense! These cars aren't rocket science, but you still must respect them and treat them right. Keeping them and good tune year around will save you lots of grief (and money). I'd really look into that heatup situation soon. Get yourself an Infrared Thermometer gun so you can check actual temps at the water manifold, thermostat housing and at the top hose just above the thermostat housing so you will know the condition/operation of your thermostat. It may just be you have a faulty temperature sensor (very common).
Stu FoxComment
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