58 carb

[Brad H.]

58 1x4 carb (from popular vender all rebuilt to new) occasionally it loads up on a drive and I have to get out and pop the hood and give the secondary lever a flick and then it is fine, nothing seems to be binding from primary piece to secondary piece, when cold is the secondary suppose to have a tiny bit of movement or be perfectly fixed, mine has a tiny bit of movemet, what would be sticking or binding till I have to flick and have it release, Am told also back the carb base nuts off a little,what would that do, Don't want to take carb off and have to send clear back east. Thanks again Brad.

[Brad H.]

Re: 58 carb

Hello, anybody home on this? Thanks again Brad.

[Roy B.]

Re: 58 carb

Yes but it's raining try WD40

[Stuart F.]

Re: 58 carb

Brad;

I trust you have a Carter WCFB carburetor. Sounds like it may need a little "blue-printing" - it's not rocket science, though rebuilders would like you to believe it is. On disassembly, make note of how things came apart and lay them out in order on a clean surface. You say the carb was recently rebuilt so you should be able to get by with just a light cleaning (no soak or "boil out" as they used to say). Remove the base and check the "rat trap" return spring for proper tension. It may not have been wrapped enough times to close the butterflies properly. Also, check the fit of the butterflies in the throttle bores by holding it up to the light when closed. If you see light, they may have been removed and not reseated properly. A loose one or one not seated before tightened will turn slightly sideways and not seat. You can also lap them in using emory cloth and oil. Holding up to the light, look for the high spots and sand them slightly. Work out all the high spots until you have a perfect seat (no light coming through). Set up (adjust) the transfer (primary to secondary) linkage and stops so all of the butterflies are full open together (not over opened - beyond stop). Try for a nice open/close "snap action". That will give you a "no hesitation" operation.

If possible, check all your jetting to make sure it is correct for your application (air and gas, if possible). Perform all linkage/float adjustments to specs for your application (to the 1/64", if possible). Always use new gaskets on reassembly (get an overhaul kit).

Take your time and use common sense. WCFB's are a piece of cake. I've done hundreds of them for action, not for beauty contests.

Stu Fox

[Brad H.]

Re: 58 carb

Stu, thanks for the great info, that will come in handy as well as a great reference for future. Hey out there, Wonderbar and Speaker 58-60. Thanks again Brad.

[Brad H.]

Re: 58 carb

Stu, or anyone on this if you followed earlier on this post,just getting to the trouble shooting on the carb load up, seems I get the loading up or missing when the motor is not all the way warm, but when it is good and hot then it runs fine, my mechanic says he has the two front lower screws ? backed out almost all the way and it doesn' change anything as far as how it runs, we talked to vender and he thinks it is the float, don't want to send it back 3000 miles if I dont have to, what should be checked , mechanic doesn't want to mess with it since it is not his rebuild but will do the simple stuff. Thanks Brad

[Roy B.]

Re: 58 carb

With out taking it a part
Check the linkage is adjusted correct
Carb base gasket is correct
Choke is working OK
Other two things he could do is
Check that the metering rods are adjusted ( should be pulled down when running at idle and hits the metering arm stop tang)
Check float level by removing the TWO side screws to see if gas don't run out and if it does readjust the floats ( to high).

[Brad H.]

Re: 58 carb

Ok, set float on primary, its not at specs and is still leaned out, everything else seems fine, runs better earlier but still misses when cold but not for as long, choke works great, would cam in new motor being I belive one step higher than orig have anything to do with it? Brad