Looking for advice on a 1960 purchase

[Greg L.]

Well as some of you may know I've been looking for a 58-60 project/driver for my Dad. Well I came across one today and I'd like your thoughts on it. Sorry, no pics yet.

It's a 1960 with a soft top, not original engine and not sure if the trans or diff are original or not. He has a dual quad set-up and it has an old original high rpm tach so I think it's original to the car. He doesn't think it was a fuelie. It's a four speed.

It has a no hit body and has been painted white and it's supposed to be really nice. The hood, doors and trunk are hung and it's been bolted back onto the frame. The windshield in not installed. The interior is red but I can't remember what all it needs other than it ALL needs to be reinstalled.

The frame has been blasted and powder coated and it's now a rolling chassis. The chrome has all been redone and it as well as the trim is supposed to be all there. He says everything is there to finish the car but as you know with project cars there are always missing parts.

Well that's about all I know about it so now I have a few questions.

1)How big of a job is it to reinstall the dash and windshield? I don't think the dash will be a big deal but the windshield scares me!

2)What are some of the big dollar items that I need to be sure are there so that I don't have to buy them later? Radio, jack....?

3)What would be a typical price for a car like this? I know this is a tough one to answer without seeing it or even seeing pics but I'd just like to get a ballpark idea so that I don't get burnt. 20k...25k...30k???

Thanks

[Mark P.]

Re: Looking for advice on a 1960 purchase

Some of the big ticket items and approx prices are:

T-10 transmission - $1,500
Wonderbar radio - $500 for a core and $300 to $500 to rebuild
Differential - $1,500 or so for posi, $500 for non-posi
091 Coil - $200
Generator - $200 for a core
Voltage regulator - $150
Dual 4 intake manifold - $400
Exhaust manifolds - $200
Seat Belts - $400
Seats and tracks - $1,500
4sp shifter - $300
Bellhousing - $300
Oil Pan - $250-$350
Dog bone wheels - $75 -$125 each
Fuel pump - $150
Starter and solenoid - $250
Radio capacitors - $200
Dual carbs if yours aren't correct - $2,000 for cores and $750 to rebuild
Guages can be pricey but I haven't had to buy any.
Building a correct 283 long block cost me about $6K
These are just some of what I bought over the last year and a half.

A NOM project 1960 with a decent body and chassis seems to be going for the low $20's. If the paint is fresh and nice I would think high $20's. I almost bought one with complete history, an original block and new paint that needed to be put together for $30K.

[James G.]

Re: Looking for advice on a 1960 purchase

A friend bought a very nice one family owner 60 body off frame 70% done. Chassis was all done with original 283/230hp engine, 4 speed and differential. All new brake lines, brakes. Front and rear springs, king pins rebuilt, new shocks and tires.
Body was mint when started and the fresh black paint was stunning. Soft top bows and new soft top in bag needing instalation. Chrome was plated. Body was reinstalled. New Al Knock blue interior was in boxes and bags and needed installation.

He paid $48,000.

The dash pad is the hard item to install. Not hard, but two people are needed to do it correctly.

Windshield is easly, but you must be very careful when tightening the nuts on the bolts thru the cowl. If you overtighten, the glass will crack.

The car was completed in January for an additional $12000 to complete the above and work out all the problems one has with a new restoration. It is a stunning car, black with blue interior , and he used a blue soft top to set the car off. Very stunning driving down the highway for $60000.

[Greg L.]

Re: Looking for advice on a 1960 purchase

Thanks guys that helps.

I was thinking low to mid 20s for a car like this with no history and missing the original engine. When did they first stamp the VIN onto the block? I'm just wondering if it would be possible to find a correct numbers matching engine or if they already had the vehicle's vin stamped on them by then.

I ordered the 58-60 TIM&JG today but it won't be here for a while so in the mean time how can I determine if the shifter, bell housing, transmission and rear end are original to this car?

What is the proper rim and tire size?

Also how can I tell what the build date for the car is?

[Rob M.]

Re: Looking for advice on a 1960 purchase

The build date you can obtain via Birthday Calculator on the C1Registry.com site!!!

Bellhousing: 3764591
Shifter: no info in TJM
Trans:
Main case: T10-1B
Tail house: T10-7B
Side Cover: T10-148B
Rear end: no casting numbers, there might be a metal plate attached to one of the bolts to indicate ratio

rim size: 15x5 (standard) or 15x5.5 (RPO 276)
tire sze: 6.70x15" (US Royal "Air Ride", B.F. Goodrich "Silvertown" and Firestone "Deluxe Champion", whitewall width 2" to about 2.5", no DOT markings

regards,
Rob.

[Greg L.]

Re: Looking for advice on a 1960 purchase

Thanks Rob.
So are those transmission numbers cast in or stamped in? Is this transmission dated coded in any way?
So if there aren't any numbers on the rear end is it safe to assume that as long as it's bolted in place that it's correct? Does it not at least have a date code stamped into it?

Just a couple other things that I'm wondering about... Should the car have seat belts or were they an option?

What side should the generator be on??? I've seen several pics and I've seen it on both the drivers and passengers side so which is correct?

[Rob M.]

Re: Looking for advice on a 1960 purchase

Hi Greg,

The numbers on the transmission are casted and the main case and tail housing are dated. Maybe the tail as well.

I can't recall any numbers or stamps on the differential being present...

Cars >= 1959 should have seat belts (I believe before 1959 this was optional, others might wan tto shine their light on this).

Generator should be fitted on the right site.

regards,
Rob.

[Mark P.]

Re: Looking for advice on a 1960 purchase

Greg - on a T-10 there are dates on the case, tail and the inside of the main case cover.

A very critical date is the date it was assembled. In the corner of the mating surface that the case cover bolts to you will see letters like:

WE1003 - the translates to W=Warner Gear, E =May, 10 = 10th of May, 0= 1960 and 3= the 3rd shift that day.

On the main case the "T-10-1B" should be more in the center (Corvette), not in the lower right corner (passenger car).

Mark

[Mark P.]

Re: Looking for advice on a 1960 purchase

Per the JM - For 1960 cars, the VIN on the engine stamp pad started with VIN #1800.

for 1801-5394 it was in 3/16 letters using no gang
for > 5394 used 5/32 letters held in a gang.

[James G.]

Re: Looking for advice on a 1960 purchase

1960 vin #1617, engine block casting 3756519, engine stamp 101617 F1208CQ for an original 283/230hp. This car was a one family owner restored last year and is now in Australia.

Picture is attached. I have also seen a Powerglide 245hp car all original, vin # 1105 with a vin stamp on the block. My best guess is all 1960 Corvettes had the vin number stamped on the engine pad as seen here.

[Edward S.]

Re: Looking for advice on a 1960 purchase

Car should have belts, first year out of the factory was 1958.

[Greg L.]

Re: Looking for advice on a 1960 purchase

Great info, thanks guys.

How can I determine if the carbs are correct?

BTW what are dog bone wheels?

Should have ordered my 58-60 TIM&JG months ago....

[Mark P.]

Re: Looking for advice on a 1960 purchase

Dog bone wheels are 5" X 15" wheels with no rivets and the welds have an indentation that resembles a dog bone.

The correct carbs will have top with a 6-1299 casting number and main bodies with a 0-0049 or 0-1049. The correct bases will be 7/8" thick as opposed to the single carb base which is like 1 and 1/8.

[Greg L.]

Re: Looking for advice on a 1960 purchase

Sorry guys...The seller just informed me that the car in question is a early 59(Sept 5th/58) and NOT a 60!

Will the info and casting numbers that you all mentioned still apply to the 59????

I realize that the "correct" engine now WON'T have a VIN as that started in 1960. That may make it possible to find the "original" block now.

The car should still have seat belts as that started in 1958.

Are the transmission and carb numbers still the same as in 1960? ...the bellhousing number? ...etc???

Thanks and sorry for the mix-up.

[Jim H.]

Re: Looking for advice on a 1960 purchase

Well as some of you may know I've been looking for a 58-60 project/driver for my Dad. Well I came across one today and I'd like your thoughts on it. Sorry, no pics yet.

It's a 1960 with a soft top, not original engine and not sure if the trans or diff are original or not. He has a dual quad set-up and it has an old original high rpm tach so I think it's original to the car. He doesn't think it was a fuelie. It's a four speed.

It has a no hit body and has been painted white and it's supposed to be really nice. The hood, doors and trunk are hung and it's been bolted back onto the frame. The windshield in not installed. The interior is red but I can't remember what all it needs other than it ALL needs to be reinstalled.

The frame has been blasted and powder coated and it's now a rolling chassis. The chrome has all been redone and it as well as the trim is supposed to be all there. He says everything is there to finish the car but as you know with project cars there are always missing parts.

Well that's about all I know about it so now I have a few questions.

1)How big of a job is it to reinstall the dash and windshield? I don't think the dash will be a big deal but the windshield scares me!

2)What are some of the big dollar items that I need to be sure are there so that I don't have to buy them later? Radio, jack....?

3)What would be a typical price for a car like this? I know this is a tough one to answer without seeing it or even seeing pics but I'd just like to get a ballpark idea so that I don't get burnt. 20k...25k...30k???

Thanks

What is wrong with a powdercoated frame? You can always paint over it if you want. Doing the windshield is not that bad. You can put it together with some help. I think there is a good website out there which describes the process. check the archives on the process. You can do this with someone helping you. Also, you should make a complete inventory of what is there so you can get an idea for the rest of the parts.