What to look for in a C1 (58-60)?

[Greg L.]

I might be going to look at a 59 in a week or so and was wondering what all or where all I should be looking at it to tell if it's a good car or not. It's supposed to be all original except for the engine, has both tops, runs and drives well.

I know what to look for in early C3s but I don't know much about these 58-60s so any advice would be appreciated.

[Bert L.]

Re: What to look for in a C1 (58-60)?

One of my greatest concerns would be the condition of the car's frame especially as regards to rust damage. Many other issues to look out for also but then those would apply to most any purchase of 50 year old vehicle. Best of luck with your search, good ones are getting hard to find so don't be in a hurry, try to wait for the best available as you'll save yourself a lot of time, money and aggravation if you do.

[Greg L.]

Re: What to look for in a C1 (58-60)?

Thanks Burt that's good advice.

Where do the frames rust on these cars? I know where to look on the early C3s but not these.

I'm not really in a hurry to buy because I've been looking for one since last summer and since then I've noticed the steady drop in prices from the economy. My Dad had one way back and he always said that he wanted another one. About 25 years ago he bought a 55 T-Bird project but the car doesn't really do it for him and I'm the one that has to put it together for him. So I figured that if I could find him a reasonable 58-60 driver then I'd get him that and do the bird later or even just sell it as is.

Neither of us are getting any younger so this might be one way to kill two birds with one stone.

Oh and is there any way to tell which engine was originaly in the car say from the tach, rad, firewall, etc?

[Steven B.]

Re: What to look for in a C1 (58-60)?

On the frame check closely the kick-ups in front of the rear wheels and especially the back crossmember where the spring hangers attach to it. The rear crossmenber collected moisture.

As far as which engine came in the car; if the car has the original tach the low redline tach was for hydraulic lifter engines (base, 245, 250) and the high red line tach was for the 270 and 290 HP.

[Greg L.]

Re: What to look for in a C1 (58-60)?

Thanks Steven. I seem to recall hearing about the rear cross member rusting now that you mention it but I didn't know about kick-ups so I'll keep that in mind.

So there were only two tachs available in these years, what were the red lines in each? Are there any other tell tale signs under the hood to give clues of what the original engine might have been?

Is there anything else that I need to be aware of besides the frame?

[Stewart A.]

Re: What to look for in a C1 (58-60)?

Like all cars. Get the car on a hoist. That's where you need to look get a good light pen and paper. Take as long as you need but check for damage to fibreglass, frame rust and weldings. These cars are not cheap so get a basic judging book and check a few important numbers. An original jack can cost thousands so take your time. Obviously try to get an idea of transmission, engine dates and numbers. If it's just a driver and the dates don't mean zip do a comp test on the motor and make sure it hasn't been hit to hard, just get it on a hoist.
Stewy

[Stewart A.]

Re: What to look for in a C1 (58-60)?

Been thinking !! if your serious, see if you can get hold of your local chapter and bring along another NCRS guy who has a good handle on C1's. It will take him half an hour to give you thumbs up or down.
Stewy

[Gary C.]

Re: What to look for in a C1 (58-60)?

Greg, in addition to what Steve and Stewie have recommended - look for bonding strips around each fender well. Also, look for changes in fiberglass texture from under neath and in the trunk fender wells. Both of these are indicators of body damage. While under neath check the top rear cross member that the top shock goes into. Noland Adams' C1 book is a good reference for the differences. Asking your local Chapter for help's always a great idea. Good luck, Gary....