Windshield Header Repair - a few more questions

[Patrick H.]

Thanks to all of those that have responded so far.

Yesterday I cleaned out all of the old "dum dum" or putty from inside the channel between the windshield in the header, mostly along the passenger's side where the rust is present. Thankfully there was no rust in the corner, and all looks well.

My plan for the rust and metal is to

- remove as much rust as possible with a wire wheel on a drill or Dremel.
- prep with "Rust Converter" material.
- paint with Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator
This should prevent any further growth of the rust. I am also going to try and spray "rust converter" and Rust Encapsulator inside the windshield frame upper using holes already factory supplied in the header.

The first question I have is this: I could replace all of the "dum dum" with strip caulk (same stuff) but I suspect that if I could use some type of sealant (silicone sealant?) it may work better at keeping out water. I'm thinking of the location/trough shown by the arrow in the picture below, not the large glob of sealant next to the chrome corner.



Next, I found a bit of surface rust where the T-bar meets the windshield header. Where the two are welded together it appears that the factory used wide masking tape to "seal" the back of the hole and then applied a hardening material (bond?) to cover it up. See below. Due to the rust I removed all of this material. My question is, what should I use to replace it? Bondo? JB Weld? Any thoughts?



Thanks for any assistance you can give.

Patrick

[Alan S.]

Re: Windshield Header Repair - a few more questions

Hi Patrick,
The thing that bothers me about silicone caulk is that when I see it used on bath tub joints the moisture seems to get under it after a while and it loses it's adhesion.
I'd think strip caulk carefully applied, like you'd do it, should last far longer than the quick assembly line application. Your work could probably be warrantied for 50 years?
Regards,
Alan

NICE date on that header!

[Patrick H.]

Re: Windshield Header Repair - a few more questions

Hi Patrick,
The thing that bothers me about silicone caulk is that when I see it used on bath tub joints the moisture seems to get under it after a while and it loses it's adhesion.
I'd think strip caulk carefully applied, like you'd do it, should last far longer than the quick assembly line application. Your work could probably be warrantied for 50 years?
Regards,
Alan

NICE date on that header!

Alan,

I know what you mean about typical silicones.
In Googling it, I found reference to some industrial silicones that are better, and also some professional windshield-specific sealants. Given the nominal difference in cost I think I would opt for the higher quality product and not whatever is available at Lowe's. $5 vs. $15 is nothing compared to the time and $ of getting this far and repairing it.

The strip caulk is easy, but since that's what was in there and it was still leaking, my thought is that something to "fill" the channel as a "base" followed by strip caulk on top may be my best bet. I still do not know "exactly" what was leaking though I found a very tiny hole which will be either welded or more likely "JB welded."

FYI it's an early 72 car. October. I guess that 5 71 just fits the 6 month window - think that it'll get dinged in Flight judging?

[Dick W.]

Re: Windshield Header Repair - a few more questions

Patrick, if you use anything but the strip caulk, the next person after you will come looking for you so that he may shoot you. Silicone is grossly over used.

[Alan S.]

Re: Windshield Header Repair - a few more questions

Hi Patrick,
Your point about the quality of the material you use is well taken.
I do see a lot of silicone used in construction. It is very good at sealing by 'bridging' a gap. In this application I would want a sealer that, I could be as sure as possible, was filling the void to displace the moisture and then also blocking the moisture from entering.
As I took my coupe apart I was surprised at the large AMOUNT of sealer used and by how, even though it was where the AIM showed it should be, HAPHAZARDLY applied it was. I could see areas where the sealer had been applied to a dusty/dirty surface so had no chance of sealing well.
I'm sure your thoughtfulness will lead to a good seal.
Regards,
Alan

[Patrick H.]

Re: Windshield Header Repair - a few more questions

Patrick, if you use anything but the strip caulk, the next person after you will come looking for you so that he may shoot you. Silicone is grossly over used.

Yeah, but the car won't be around here anymore by then.
And in my "day job" I've seen poor application of silicone as well.

It doesn't have to be silicone that goes in there. My point is that if there is a product superior to strip caulk, I'd like to know now before I continue with the repair.

Any thoughts on the location where the T-bar meets the header?
No one has commented on that yet.

Patrick

[Michael G.]

Re: Windshield Header Repair - a few more questions

Patrick,
I have had good results sealing skylights using a product Karnak 19 Ultra rubberized flashing cement.(Not the red tube, the yellow tube which is "rubberized"). This product is available in caulk gun tubes from building supply outlets and I believe Home Depot. It will solidify somewhat over time, but always remains easily removed compared to other products I have used. As with any product suggested by strangers, you should sample a bead on some scrap and see what you think. Mike