Removing exhaust studs

[Thomas H.]

Re: Removing exhaust studs

Joe,

I used PB Blaster on mine. A few shots the day before. They came out a lot easier then I expected!

A few did start to bind as they were coming out so I threaded them back in and tried again, sort of like tapping a hole. Work it in and out.....

Tom

[Joe R.]

Re: Removing exhaust studs

I worked on removing the studs yesterday. Using Kroil oil and freeze spray, I got 5 of the 6 out without incident. The last one is stubborn, I'm hoping a good long Kroil soak will do the trick.

Who makes the stainless studs? What is the part number? Where do I get them?

Joe

[Doug M.]

Re: Removing exhaust studs

Joe,
If you want to do it yourself, do what Clem said. It really works.

Doug

[Joe L.]

Re: Removing exhaust studs

I worked on removing the studs yesterday. Using Kroil oil and freeze spray, I got 5 of the 6 out without incident. The last one is stubborn, I'm hoping a good long Kroil soak will do the trick.

Who makes the stainless studs? What is the part number? Where do I get them?

Joe

Joe-----


Dr. Rebuild and Paragon have them. Most of the other suppliers probably do, too. Stainless steel studs are the ONLY way to go. Absolutely. Period.

[Ron R.]

Re: Removing exhaust studs

Why not cut the stud flush, center punch it and drill it out? Start with a small drill bit and work your way up a little at a time until the stud can be picked out. Chase it with a tap and it should be ready for the new studs...seems lower risk than possibly breaking the manifold trying to get the last one out

[Joe R.]

Re: Removing exhaust studs

Ron,

I was thinking of trying the candle wax route first. Do I need Mapp gas for that or will propane be hot enough?

The center punch, drill, tap route sounds like a good backup plan. My machinist skills are meager at best, how close to the center of the stud does the punch need to be? If it needs to be accurate, how do I center it properly?

Joe

[Doug M.]

Re: Removing exhaust studs

Joe, For candle wax method, heat to cherry red with oxy-accetylene torch. Apply wax candle to thread area a few times as area is cooling. A bit messy and smoke. Wax gets drawn into threads as it cools. Try to remove stud when hot, may take more than one heating process, with wax cooling. I read about this trick years ago in a Super Chevy magazine. I have done this many times. If Clem recommends it, it must be right.

Doug

[David C.]

Re: Removing exhaust studs

Propane will not be hot enough no matter what method you try unless the stud would come out on it's own without heat. Any repair shop that does exhaust work deals with this problem regularly and should be able to take them out right quick for you at minimal charge using many of the methods described above, but all methods will almost always include Oxy-acetylene torches. They will be real happy with the manifolds off the car.

[Joe R.]

Re: Removing exhaust studs

Joe, For candle wax method, heat to cherry red with oxy-accetylene torch. Apply wax candle to thread area a few times as area is cooling. A bit messy and smoke. Wax gets drawn into threads as it cools. Try to remove stud when hot, may take more than one heating process, with wax cooling. I read about this trick years ago in a Super Chevy magazine. I have done this many times. If Clem recommends it, it must be right.

Doug

Doug,

I tried the wax method but it didn't work. Probably because I don't have a Oxy-acetylene torch. I talked a motor head buddy into using his torch on the last one. He had no problem getting it out. Whew, all of the studs out with no collateral damage to the manifolds!

Joe

[Larry M.]

Re: Removing exhaust studs

heat the area with a torch and drip candle wax in around the threads. this also works to remove pipe plugs

A proven technique THAT WORKS. Similar to lead soldering (although hotter) where you feed in the solder just after removing the heat and the cooling effect draws the solder or wax into the threads. It is called "capillary action".

The most important thing is it works.

Larry

[Rich P.]

Re: Removing exhaust studs

A proven technique THAT WORKS. Similar to lead soldering (although hotter) where you feed in the solder just after removing the heat and the cooling effect draws the solder or wax into the threads. It is called "capillary action".

The most important thing is it works.

Larry

Would this work on a steel heater hose fitting on an aluminum intake?

Rich

[John D.]

Re: Removing exhaust studs

Read all the interesting replies to Joe's dilemna. Agree with most of them.
The FI intakes (baseplates) have steel fittings that I don't even attempt to take out myself anymore. Too hard on my old back.
I bring the intake to my buddies. He clamps it in his hydr. press sandwiched between two of 2 x 10's.
The he uses his Oyl-accet... torch and heats around the casting but not the fitting. Then old JD stands back and plasts the area with Aero Kroil. Then we go do something else till the part cools off. Then we go back and repeat the process a second time and the fittings come right out. Well most of the time.
Those water pump bypass fittings with the large screwdriver slot though are a pain but we get them out.
Plan B: Take the base plaste to a local machine shop that uses nice EDM machine.(like mentioned above.) Isnt' cheap but well worth it.
Ever since I learned of Kroil I never touch the PB blaster cans anymore.

When one of you were recently so kind to tell us about the two can sale of Kroilfor under 20 bucks which included shipping I jumped on it. Thanks again, JD

[Domenic T.]

Re: Removing exhaust studs

heat the area with a torch and drip candle wax in around the threads. this also works to remove pipe plugs

I use the method clem uses and found (in 90% of the removals that if you reverse the method and heat the stud red hot then use the candle wax (with gloves on to protect you from the fire that WILL happen) they will turn out.

The arguement against this method is exactly what makes it work. The red hot stud EXPANDS in the cast iron exhaust crushing the corrosion that is between the 2stud and manifold. The was wicks into that area.

We use this method to remove oil acsess plugs on the sides of big blocks and they just spin out.

The other method works well also by heating the manifold red and wicking wax in the threads. you can immediatly cool the stud with an ice cube to shrink it as you begin to turn.

DOM

[David L.]

Re: Removing exhaust studs

Has anyone ever used "Loctite Freeze & Release". It supposedly "loosens by shock-freezing" (-45 degrees F). "The exceptional shock-freeze action causes microscopic cracks in the layer of rust, allowing the lubricating ingredient to wick directly into the rust by capillary action".

I plan to try it in this Spring time to remove the 6 nuts off the studs on my 94 Z28 exhaust manifold so that I can replace the y-pipe catalytic converter assembly. I do NOT want to break any of the 6 studs.

[Larry M.]

Re: Removing exhaust studs

Would this work on a steel heater hose fitting on an aluminum intake?

Rich

Rich:

See John DeGregory's post from this morning below. John describes how he does it (slight variation).......and how well it works. His post is near the end of this complete thread.

Larry