Need some quick tech support, removing rear end 1969

[John M.]

I have the entire rear end unbolted as well as the cross member. I had assumed the entire rear end and cross member would drop out but the cross member stays solid after the outside two bolts are removed.

Is the cross member not removable with those 2 outward bolts?

If not, there are bolts that attach the cross member to the rear differential towards the center of the cross member, but they look almost impossible to get to.

Am I missing something in removing the cross member or are my only options to somehow remove the differential from the cross member with the center bolts?

Thanks

[Dick W.]

Re: Need some quick tech support, removing rear end 1969

There have been many prior posts concerning this, but I will give it to you quick and dirty. The rubber cushions on the ends of the crossmember will "grow" to the mounts on the frame. Start by supporting the differential with a jack, just barely touching. Get the longest pry bar that you have and start prying on the ends of the differential crossmember. Eventually it will turn loose, dumping you on your butt if you are not carefull. You can make this a little easier by soaking the bushings in penetrating oil for a day or so.

[Thomas N.]

Re: Need some quick tech support, removing rear end 1969

I've also used a piece of wood formed in a wedge and drove it between the crossmember and the sombero mount on the frame. This is almost like using a pickle fork on a front end tie rod part. I've had times when I drove these wedges in to provide some pressure, and then overnight it would break loose. What is nice about this is the wood will not have the tendency to mark/dent the frame mount or the vertical mount. Whatever approach you take, you will want to thread the sombrero rubber mount bolts back in partially, so when it lets go, the rear end doesn't drop on the floor or on your foot.

[John M.]

Re: Need some quick tech support, removing rear end 1969

Very Good, thank you gentlemen.

Back to work.

[John M.]

Re: Need some quick tech support, removing rear end 1969

One last question, there appears to be metal tabs around the bushing.

Do those need to be folded back away from the cross member, or are they seperate from the bushing?

[William C.]

Re: Need some quick tech support, removing rear end 1969

No, the tabs hold the rubber biscuits in the crossmember. You don't want to mess with them unless you plan on replacing the rubber biscuits after removing the crossmember from the car.

[John M.]

Re: Need some quick tech support, removing rear end 1969

Thanks Bill.

[Joel T.]

Re: Need some quick tech support, removing rear end 1969

Very Good, thank you gentlemen.

Back to work.

John;

I agree with all that the other guys have said... The rear and the cross member are HEAVY, more so than say your muncie. I would suggest that you leave the cross member bolts in, slightly engaged, and then use the pry bar to separate those bushings from the frame. the bolts will hold the weight. Depending upon how high you are off the ground you will need something (or perhaps somebody) to help you lower that assembly. When I did this on my 1963 I used a motorcycle lift and some wood to cradle the rear and lower it down.

What's interesting is that I am getting ready to do this again... one of my winter projects here in NJ. I recently bought an attachment from Northern Tool which bolts to a floor jack and turns it into a transmission jack of sorts.. I'm hoping that will make the job easier this next time.

Good luck,

Joel

[Chuck G.]

Re: Need some quick tech support, removing rear end 1969

I still have a 3" scar on my leg from the last one I removed.

Used a pry bar probably 6 feet long. When it "popped", I went flying, just as Dick said.

I'd put the bolts back in loosely, then start prying. That'll keep it from falling to the floor when it pops. It's a VERY heavy assembly.

You have to REALLY crank on the bushings to get 'em to pop loose.

Chuck

[William V.]

Re: Need some quick tech support, removing rear end 1969

John


You can temporally replace the 7/16th bolts with longer ones leaving room for the cross member to drop. This will help ketch the cross member when it comes free. Be careful with the pry bar. I got a good sock in the jaw when I removed the rear on my 64.

Good luck

BV

[Thomas N.]

Re: Need some quick tech support, removing rear end 1969

And if you are using a long prybar with the body still on the chassis, make sure the prybar doesn't pop back and crack the lip of your fender.

[John M.]

Re: Need some quick tech support, removing rear end 1969

What a Bear!

After giving up after 2 hours yesterday I sprayed it liberally with WD-40 and let it soak overnight. After bending my 24" Floor Jack Bar I went out this morning and bought a 36" wrecker bar.

IT finally let go and of course I didn't take the advice of putting longer bolts it. ( I even thought about it but was anxious to try the wrecker bar)

It stayed balanced on the floor jack until I lowered it.

It came rolling off the floor jack, heading straight for the rear quarter and luckily got caught on the rear of the car right before hitting it.

Hanging on by a lip, I rocked it off safely onto the ground avoiding it smashing into the quarter panel.

So if finding this thread in the future using the search function.

PUT LONGER BOLTS IN AND STEADY IT AS IT LOWERS.

It's like a 150 Lb. Bowling ball.

[William C.]

Re: Need some quick tech support, removing rear end 1969

Amazing the good advice we recognize after we have done something. Fortunately, no harm, no foul!

[Gary R.]

Re: Need some quick tech support, removing rear end 1969

FYI,
An iron diff with cover and axles is 100 lbs, add about 25 for the support.

[John M.]

Re: Need some quick tech support, removing rear end 1969

Add for the Spring and half shafts left on it