Powerglide Transmission "Kick Down" Problems - NCRS Discussion Boards

Powerglide Transmission "Kick Down" Problems

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  • Michael H.
    Very Frequent User
    • November 30, 2004
    • 118

    Powerglide Transmission "Kick Down" Problems

    I'd appreciate any help in diagnosing a problem we're having in getting the "kick down" mechanism in my '55 Powerglide to shift the transmission down into low gear at about 20 to 30 mph upon fully depressing the accelerator. We've adjusted the side linkage on the transmission that connects to the shift down rod, in an attempt to obtain full travel on the shift down side lever connected to the tranny, but to no avail. We then removed the entire side plate mechanism (the one that is connected by 8 bolts to the drivers' side of the transmission and that has the internal valves, etc., and from which protrudes the shaft to which the shift down lever is connected--sorry, don't know the proper name of this mechanism) to try to ascertain whether there was anything missing or not working inside.

    We took this side plate mechanism to a local transmission mechanic who professes to work on old Powerglides. He looked at it and said that everything appeared to be working properly, that there were no missing internal pieces, and that the lever was hitting the internal "stop" properly. (He did not otherwise "test" this mechanism.) He also told us that this same mechanism is what causes the transmission fluid to shift the transmission from low to high (and vice-versa) at fairly low speed during normal operation. Therefore, according to this mechanic, if the tranny is otherwise shifting gears properly (which it appears to be doing), there is nothing wrong in the internal side plate shift mechanism, and the failure of the tranny to shift down to low gear upon stomping down on the acceleration at about 20 to 30 mph, must be due to our failure to achieve the proper adjustment in the shift down rod. We've adjusted that rod both on the lower end (at the shaft sticking out of the side plate mechanism) and at the upper end (at the intake manifold bell house), but still can't seem to get the shift down to operate when we drive the car.

    Any thoughts, and two specific questions: (1) is it true that if the tranny is otherwise shifting from low to high (and vice-versa) at about 15 to 20 mph during normal operation, that the mechanism itself that should cause the "shift down" upon stomping the accelerator, is working properly and therefore our problem must be in our linkage adjustment, and (2) is it possible that we have the wrong shift down rod, which seems a little long and may or may not be original to the car? I note that we have to take all of the travel out of the carb linage to get the shift down rod to attach to the intake manifold bellhousing. Thanks very much for any help. Mike
  • Fenwick B.
    Expired
    • December 31, 2004
    • 115

    #2
    Re: Powerglide Transmission "Kick Down" Problems

    1) My transmission shifts down when you "stomp" the accelerator, but I have never checked at what range of speeds that this occurs.
    2) I just looked at the linkage on my 55, and although it would be pretty hard to measure the total length of the shiftdown rod, the top of the rod at idle is 1 1/2 inches above the flat on the intake manifold near the rod.
    Fenwick Binder

    Comment

    • Bruce B.
      Extremely Frequent Poster
      • May 31, 1996
      • 2930

      #3
      Re: Powerglide Transmission "Kick Down" Problems

      The 1957 Corvette AIM (assembly manual) has a section on how to adjust Powerglide linkage which should be helpful to you. It is pretty straightforward.
      Send me your email address and I will try to scan and send to you.
      Last edited by Bruce B.; January 15, 2009, 09:06 AM. Reason: omission

      Comment

      • Michael H.
        Expired
        • January 28, 2008
        • 7477

        #4
        Re: Powerglide Transmission "Kick Down" Problems

        Michael,

        If I remember correctly, the old cast iron Power Glide T.V. kick down system is the same as later aluminum units. If so, there will be TWO detents felt on the linkage, or lever on the transmission. Disconnect the linkage rod at the transmission and see if you can feel the two stage spring resistance when manually operating the lever to FULL detent.
        The first spring pressure (light) that you feel is just for shift timing/spacing during normal upshift. The wider the throttle opening, the higher MPH the upshift.
        In other words, if you accelerate with minimum throttle, the 1 to 2 upshift will occur at aroung 18 MPH ?? If you accelerate with medim throttle, the shift should occur somewhere around 30 MPH?? Full throttle upshift probably arount 55 MPH? If the shift points don't change with different throttle openings, the system isn't working at all or is completely out of adjustment.

        The secondary detent spring, (heavy) is for full throttle upshift or full throttle downshift (passing gear)

        With the rod disconnected, have an assistant hold the throttle in the wide open position and see if the T.V. (downshift) rod comes close to matching the position of the lever on the transmission when the lever is held in the "detent" position.

        If I remember correctly, you should shorten the rod at the carburetor end to raise the shift point and make it easier to engage detent/passing gear.
        Last edited by Michael H.; January 15, 2009, 09:37 AM.

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