70-72 windshield header stainless trim removal

[Patrick H.]

Hello All,

I'm working on a 72 coupe for a friend of mine. He's had a leak for years, and based on the lack of sealant at the top of the windshield trim I'm not surprised.
The leak has resulted in rust, and it's my job to inspect and repair if needed.

In the picture below you can see the arrows from above pointing to the large piece of header trim that I need to remove (only a portion of the whole is showing). I have removed all the screws, and know that it is also held in place with sealant from below.

Is there a trick to removing this piece to avoid bending it or breaking it? Are there any of the surrounding pieces that I need to remove first in order to do this? Any magic tools that can help?

Thanks for any insight you might have.

Patrick

[Chuck S.]

Re: 70-72 windshield header stainless trim removal

Patrick, I don't remember using any "special tools".

I would remove the cast corner moldings, and work from both sides by extending a long smooth pry tool under the trim to put the fulcrum well away from the header end. Before that, I would use a thin bladed scraper to insure that the rear flange is fully separated from the windshield frame.

The sealant is gray dumdum, or virtually identical to 3M Strip Calk in appearance and character (at least it was 30 something years ago; harder now). I am certain the key is to proceed slowly to allow the sealant time to separate, without applying enough force to buckle the trim...I think we can safely assume you won't be getting any more work from your bud if you buckle his header trim.

In your neck of the woods, at this time of year, that sealant is probably rock hard if the ambient temperature is below normal room temp. I would allow the car to normalize temperature in a heated garage, and/or apply high heat with a hair dryer to increase the pliability of the sealant during the removal process.

[Bill C.]

Re: 70-72 windshield header stainless trim removal

Patrick,

Be sure the thin upper windsheild molding (outside glass) is removed, there are a couple small tangs that sit over the lip edge of the big T chrome piece.

Don't try to take the cast corners out - you will crack the windsheild. there are 2 screws in the front that are a bitch to remove - and always crack the glass.

Also you will have to remove the 6 side screws and drill out the two rear rivits (go through the pot metal pieces).

There is a bunch of gray sealent used in the rear and front areas - it wil be old and sorta hard, so best to start from the side and use a flat putty knife to raise the T part up.

Just go slow or you will bend it and the weather strips will leak.

[Patrick H.]

Re: 70-72 windshield header stainless trim removal

Patrick,

Be sure the thin upper windsheild molding (outside glass) is removed, there are a couple small tangs that sit over the lip edge of the big T chrome piece.

I was afraid of that. As I can see it, I also have to remove the side pieces of the trim first including the weatherstrips on the A-pillars, then I can access and remove the front windshield molding, correct? Or is it somehow possible to remove the front upper piece by itself?

Don't try to take the cast corners out - you will crack the windshield. There are 2 screws in the front that are a bitch to remove - and always crack the glass.

Also you will have to remove the 6 side screws and drill out the two rear rivits (go through the pot metal pieces).

6 side screws are out. I've left the rivets in (so far) because I just want to lift this trim up an inch or so to inspect it.
If I have to remove the rivets, any idea on size and material?

There is a bunch of gray sealent used in the rear and front areas - it wil be old and sorta hard, so best to start from the side and use a flat putty knife to raise the T part up.

Just go slow or you will bend it and the weather strips will leak.

OK.
Car is in a heated garage. Would a heat gun help at all?

Thanks!

Patrick

[Bill C.]

Re: 70-72 windshield header stainless trim removal

Patrick,

You will have to remove the side molding too.
Pretty good chance you will mess up the rubber WS while taking it out.
There are a couple screws that you can not get at with the WS in place.

There is a bunch of the same calking junk behind the A-pillar molding as under the T molding.


If you don't remove those rivits - I think that you will not be able to lift the molding up without bending/buckling it.
The T piece is very unforgiving, and you will likely have to pry up and loosen the back before you are able to loosen and lift the front.

The rivits are steel and can be drilled out. You have to remove the halo panels in the rear to do this.

The whole thing is a GIGANTIC nut buster - bad design

[Brad M.]

Re: 70-72 windshield header stainless trim removal

I would pretty much agree with what Bill has said, and will also comment that the thin windshield molding piece at top of windshield can be quite sharp on the back side. I cut up a finger pretty good once removing one from a 72.

Also those two pieces that go from the stainless T bar and extend out along the back of T top area have some screws that go from undeneath and face upward into the bowed extension pieces. Those screws can be hard to see.

[Jim T.]

Re: 70-72 windshield header stainless trim removal

Partick I removed my 70's about 1987. Not much to add to what the other posters have written. Just exercise a lot of patience and take it slow, that big piece of stainless will release.
From the leak problem, I will suggest that the complete upper frame is much likely to have rusted through along the areas where the sealing material for the windshield is applied. Wish I could show you my pictures I took of what mine looked like in 1987. I replaced the top header and the two corner connecting pieces.
I got my parts from GM, now discontinued. However the top header is available from a part supplier I believe in Michigan.
My damage was visible when the stainless windshield trim was removed for a windshield replacement.

[Patrick H.]

Re: 70-72 windshield header stainless trim removal

Patrick,

You will have to remove the side molding too.
Pretty good chance you will mess up the rubber WS while taking it out.
There are a couple screws that you can not get at with the WS in place.

There is a bunch of the same calking junk behind the A-pillar molding as under the T molding.


If you don't remove those rivits - I think that you will not be able to lift the molding up without bending/buckling it.
The T piece is very unforgiving, and you will likely have to pry up and loosen the back before you are able to loosen and lift the front.

The rivits are steel and can be drilled out. You have to remove the halo panels in the rear to do this.

The whole thing is a GIGANTIC nut buster - bad design

You guys are really confidence inspiring you know?

The car is so nice and original otherwise that I hate the thought of taking off all of those pieces. I'm going to show the owner a copy of this thread and see just how much time, money and effort he wants to put into fixing this leak.

I have to admit, though, it really leaks a lot. I noticed that when I washed it last week.

Patrick

[Thomas H.]

Re: 70-72 windshield header stainless trim removal

I have to admit, though, it really leaks a lot. I noticed that when I washed it last week.

Patrick

Patrick,

I have a similar issue on my 71 coupe. I decided one day, when I had nothing better to do (I usually end up getting my self in trouble on these days........), to try and fix it. I basically got as far as you did and then took a step back.

I realized that since the car is garage kept, I don't drive it in the rain and when I wash it I just use a bucket and rag (no hose), I really don't have a leak problem after all .

I buttoned everything back up and figure I'll leave it alone until I decide to finally get some good paint on the car.

Regards,
Tom

[Patrick H.]

Re: 70-72 windshield header stainless trim removal

Patrick,

I have a similar issue on my 71 coupe. I decided one day, when I had nothing better to do (I usually end up getting my self in trouble on these days........), to try and fix it. I basically got as far as you did and then took a step back.

I realized that since the car is garage kept, I don't drive it in the rain and when I wash it I just use a bucket and rag (no hose), I really don't have a leak problem after all .

I buttoned everything back up and figure I'll leave it alone until I decide to finally get some good paint on the car.

Regards,
Tom

Uh huh.

I sent the owner an e-mail.
I can either take apart everything and be 110% sure that everything is inspected and repaired

or,

or I can scrape the rust off, paint the metal, and then replace all the missing caulk between the stainless header and the windshield trim. I suspect that replacing the caulk and resealing it will stop the leak and we won't have to worry much anymore.

Patrick

[Thomas H.]

Re: 70-72 windshield header stainless trim removal

Uh huh.

I sent the owner an e-mail.
I can either take apart everything and be 110% sure that everything is inspected and repaired

or,

or I can scrape the rust off, paint the metal, and then replace all the missing caulk between the stainless header and the windshield trim. I suspect that replacing the caulk and resealing it will stop the leak and we won't have to worry much anymore.

Patrick

I knew that I was tugging the ribbons on Pandora's box. If I continued to untie them I knew it would be several years before I would drive the car again since it would immediately lead to the body coming off of the frame. I'm looking for an excuse to start that process.

I rebuilt an engine once to change a spark plug...........!

Tom

[Alan S.]

Re: 70-72 windshield header stainless trim removal

Hi Patrick,
Here are some pictures of a 'special tool' made in China to help get the tremendous grip of the all the sealer to release the windshield header and roof panel trim. I had to work it up a little at a time to be sure of not kinking the stainless steel trim.
It looks like you're having quite a bit of fun!
Regards,
Alan

[Jack H.]

Re: 70-72 windshield header stainless trim removal

"I suspect that replacing the caulk and resealing it will stop the leak and we won't have to worry much anymore."

I don't think I'll take that bet, Pat! Since I can see rust on the inside/bottom of the upper frame header, my gut tells me you have a pretty fair chance of finding EXTENSIVE rot on the front side of the bird cage when you get the reveal moldings off.

Once water has invaded through the front side of the bird cage's windshield surround, water collects inside and begins rotting the frame from the inside out. Sometimes, there's so LITTLE original steel left that the windshield can't be replaced (insufficient surface area to attach to) making it time to bite the big bullet and do a windshield frame transplant from a scrap yard donor Corvette...

If that winds up being the situation on this car, I hope you sit the owner down when you explain his next set of repair options!

[Patrick H.]

Re: 70-72 windshield header stainless trim removal

"I suspect that replacing the caulk and resealing it will stop the leak and we won't have to worry much anymore."

I don't think I'll take that bet, Pat! Since I can see rust on the inside/bottom of the upper frame header, my gut tells me you have a pretty fair chance of finding EXTENSIVE rot on the front side of the bird cage when you get the reveal moldings off.

Once water has invaded through the front side of the bird cage's windshield surround, water collects inside and begins rotting the frame from the inside out. Sometimes, there's so LITTLE original steel left that the windshield can't be replaced (insufficient surface area to attach to) making it time to bite the big bullet and do a windshield frame transplant from a scrap yard donor Corvette...

If that winds up being the situation on this car, I hope you sit the owner down when you explain his next set of repair options!

Thanks Jack.
He's out of town this week - and I will be soon too.
I'll see what he says next week when we communicate.
They do make repair sections, and since the rest of the birdcage appears to be in very good shape I would hope that just a small section would have to be repaired - if any.

Patrick

PS. If you think this one above looks bad, you should see my friend's 70 convertible shown below. Absolutely nothing left of the windshield header.

[Erik S.]

Re: 70-72 windshield header stainless trim removal

Thanks Jack.
He's out of town this week - and I will be soon too.
I'll see what he says next week when we communicate.
They do make repair sections, and since the rest of the birdcage appears to be in very good shape I would hope that just a small section would have to be repaired - if any.

Patrick

PS. If you think this one above looks bad, you should see my friend's 70 convertible shown below. Absolutely nothing left of the windshield header.

Yikes Patrick - I was glad not finding this on my 68 when I removed the trim. As regards to your friend - look at the bright side of life; he still has the original glass

Cheers from a salty Amsterdam,
Erik