Power Window Dead - C3

[Rob H.]

Re: Power Window Dead - C3

Hey Bob - No I did not, but that is a good idea regardless!

Thanks,
Rob

[Rob H.]

Re: Power Window Dead - C3

Problem solved! I got lucky. I removed the power brake console to inspect the switch (BTW - THANKS Bob for the heads-up about the "secret" bolt that must be accessed from the jack compartment!), and the wires that plug into the switch were a bit loose. I merely pushed it in and baddabing! Window works!

Thanks to all who offered up their advice.

Rob

[Jack H.]

Re: Power Window Dead - C3

"If the switch is good you will get the same voltage reading on each of the wires as the switch is actuated. Any lower voltage readings (voltage drop) indicate the switch is making poor contact and should be replaced.

If Jack Humphry sees this (I haven't seen him on here in a while) he will be able to tell me how wrong I am. There are probably a few others who could do the same, so don't dash right out to the garage. As I said, this is off the top of my head without ever having to do it to a Corvette, and not having the wiring diagram in front of me."

I'm here, Terry! I was away with a fellow RMC member on a 2-week road trip to his ranch in Mexico...

It looks like there's no need now to comment, but what you suggested is pretty straight forward (compare the DC voltage of the RH power switch to that of the LH power switch vs. ground) to check for excessive internal switch contact wear.

A companion test is to use an inductive current meter (probe clamps around a single wire) to measure current draw from the motor during operation. As DC motors wear out their brushes AND/OR bearing resistance climbs, they'll try to suck more current to compensate...

[Terry M.]

Re: Power Window Dead - C3

Thanks Jack. After I posted this someone else revealed your where-a- bouts. I hope you enjoyed the trip and the warmer weather.

I chose the voltmeter test, believing that tool was more commonly available than the ampmeter. The ampmeter is the superior test however.