70 Master Cylinder and brakes

[Bill L.]

Well I am learning the hard way. The cap did not fit right and fluid went all over. Non original chrome cap. Not ready to spend big bucks on restored or NOS original.

This is the original MC and I just had it completely redone. Sleeved and all. It was beautiful.

When it leaked it pulled up all the paint and started to rust almost immediately. I did not notice it for a few days too which did not help. It did not take much fluid to make a real mess.

Should I have it disassembled and bead blasted? Powder coated?

If I had used Silicone versus standard brake fluid could I have avoided this mess. Man I hate doing things twice!

What are the pros and cons of the silicone? Can I effectively flush the rest of the old fluid out at home if I do switch to silicone.

Two steps forward and one step back

What is the best way to try and break the lines loose from the proportioning valve? They seem frozen. Can you replace all the brake lines along the frame without lifting the body?

Thanks Guys. Kindest Regards, Bill

[Terry M.]

[Harry S.]

Re: 70 Master Cylinder and brakes

Bill, you will find strong opinions to stay with DOT 3 and just as many to go with DOT 5. Last summer I changed my 63 from DOT 3 to 5 and I'm happy I did.

I just rebuilt my 63 MC. I used traditional paint remover and a brass brush. I pained it with a brush, stove black color. As close to original as I can recall.

[Terry M.]

Re: 70 Master Cylinder and brakes

Harry, I don't wish to be too critical, you have done a really nice job -- but the bleeder screw does look like stainless steel to me.

[Harry S.]

Re: 70 Master Cylinder and brakes

Terry, thank you, It's not SS. The bolt on the brake line side is to stop the leaking as I just finish bench bleeding the unit. Did it yesterday.

[Steven G.]

Re: 70 Master Cylinder and brakes

Bill, when I have a fluid spill, I wash off with waster asap this neutrolizes the fluid so I can proceed to fix damages. Steve

[Joe L.]

Re: 70 Master Cylinder and brakes

Well I am learning the hard way. The cap did not fit right and fluid went all over. Non original chrome cap. Not ready to spend big bucks on restored or NOS original.

This is the original MC and I just had it completely redone. Sleeved and all. It was beautiful.

When it leaked it pulled up all the paint and started to rust almost immediately. I did not notice it for a few days too which did not help. It did not take much fluid to make a real mess.

Should I have it disassembled and bead blasted? Powder coated?

If I had used Silicone versus standard brake fluid could I have avoided this mess. Man I hate doing things twice!

What are the pros and cons of the silicone? Can I effectively flush the rest of the old fluid out at home if I do switch to silicone.

Two steps forward and one step back

What is the best way to try and break the lines loose from the proportioning valve? They seem frozen. Can you replace all the brake lines along the frame without lifting the body?

Thanks Guys. Kindest Regards, Bill

Bill-----


You can purchase a reproduction cap for about 20 bucks. It won't be 100% correct in every nuance but it should be fine FUNCTIONALLY and it will be very close to the original in configuration.

[Michael G.]

Re: 70 Master Cylinder and brakes

I have just replaced the brake lines on my 71 with the body on. Not a lot of fun, but it is possible. The frame mount clips will be the icing on the cake after you finally get the new lines in place. If you do decide to go with new lines, just cut the old ones close to the valve and put a 6 point deep socket on them. I too was amazed at the difficulty in breaking them loose. Good luck, Mike

[Joe L.]

Re: 70 Master Cylinder and brakes

I have just replaced the brake lines on my 71 with the body on. Not a lot of fun, but it is possible. The frame mount clips will be the icing on the cake after you finally get the new lines in place. If you do decide to go with new lines, just cut the old ones close to the valve and put a 6 point deep socket on them. I too was amazed at the difficulty in breaking them loose. Good luck, Mike

Mike and Bill-----


To remove stubborn fittings from the brake distribution block (and they definitely can be quite stubborn), obtain crow's foot wrenches like those pictured below. These can be used with a breaker bar or, even, a 3/8" drive impact tool (CAREFULLY). They'll easily break the fittings loose. However, the BODY of the distribution block has to be FIRMLY CLAMPED OR OTHERWISE RETAINED while this is being done. Otherwise, you'll break the body loose from the attached frame bracket and it's not "re-attachable".