I wrote years ago as to how to adjust 53-57 hood with out enlarging the hinge holes or pop-up holes for NCRS, and still get calls so here is a simple run down again because of people using repro's.
1. The hinges can be moved to aid in making the hinges go over center when closed
And the two bolts holding the hood can be moved to center the hood forward or back left or right.
2. The front two blocks set the hood line to the body by moving them up or down
3.The back hood male latches can be moved to center the male pins to meet the females and the stops are adjusted to line the back hood to the body line.
4.with the two pop-ups installed ( and they don't need the holes enlarged ) close the hood to see if the front hood line meets the body .
5. Now if the front hood line seats up from the body when closed it's not the pop-ups but the hinges ant going over center pulling the hood down on to the blocks and compressing the pop-ups.
6. The two hinge bolts at the front of the hood may need shimming but read no.(1) first// if you still need to get more over center you only shim the top bolt (both sides or one) and that will force the hinge to go over center (more) pulling the hood down on to the blocks and compressing the pop-ups.
If you followed this and everything works OK that's it. If you have problems with the pop-ups or back male latches using repro's your in for a hell of a time. (they suck) the spring are to strong and you may have to resort to cutting a coil off.
This is how the hood should work , when you pull the cable ( hard to see it happen ) the front and rear of the hood pops up at the same time, the reason the front pops-up is to clear the front hood from the body as you open the hood with (ONE) hand. And when you close the hood those last few inch's the front hinges go over center compressing the pop-ups.
If you see a person using (TWO) hands ,one under the front hood it's because the hood is not adjusted correct and he don't wont to chip his paint and when closing he'll push down on the front hood.
I hope I made it clear and you understand the physics of how the hinges and pop-ups work to gather
1. The hinges can be moved to aid in making the hinges go over center when closed
And the two bolts holding the hood can be moved to center the hood forward or back left or right.
2. The front two blocks set the hood line to the body by moving them up or down
3.The back hood male latches can be moved to center the male pins to meet the females and the stops are adjusted to line the back hood to the body line.
4.with the two pop-ups installed ( and they don't need the holes enlarged ) close the hood to see if the front hood line meets the body .
5. Now if the front hood line seats up from the body when closed it's not the pop-ups but the hinges ant going over center pulling the hood down on to the blocks and compressing the pop-ups.
6. The two hinge bolts at the front of the hood may need shimming but read no.(1) first// if you still need to get more over center you only shim the top bolt (both sides or one) and that will force the hinge to go over center (more) pulling the hood down on to the blocks and compressing the pop-ups.
If you followed this and everything works OK that's it. If you have problems with the pop-ups or back male latches using repro's your in for a hell of a time. (they suck) the spring are to strong and you may have to resort to cutting a coil off.
This is how the hood should work , when you pull the cable ( hard to see it happen ) the front and rear of the hood pops up at the same time, the reason the front pops-up is to clear the front hood from the body as you open the hood with (ONE) hand. And when you close the hood those last few inch's the front hinges go over center compressing the pop-ups.
If you see a person using (TWO) hands ,one under the front hood it's because the hood is not adjusted correct and he don't wont to chip his paint and when closing he'll push down on the front hood.
I hope I made it clear and you understand the physics of how the hinges and pop-ups work to gather