Body Bolt #4 Removal '63

[Jack Y.]

I need to replace the front to rear brake line ion a '63 conv. I have the usual issue with #4 as the nut is no longer caged and just spins. I have checked the archives but before I torch the head off, then what? Will I be able to access the headless bolt and attached nut? Do I drill out the rivets and pry it open? I really only planned to raise the left side enough to replace the line and keep moving. Will I be able to complete this task with just the one side up?

Thanks in advance !!

Jack

[Jim T.]

Re: Body Bolt #4 Removal '63

Jack I have not tied the following. I have read posts of other members having the same problem. Given, the nut is no longer secure. If you cut the head of the bolt off the body mount bolt off the bolt and nut will move up and down vertically. Is it possible to take JB Weld and apply it to the bottom of the bolt with a cardboard paper sleeve around the bolt and let it set up for the recommended amount of time and try removing the bolt if the JB Weld will hold the nut? Just an idea to keep from removing the cage.

[Jack Y.]

Re: Body Bolt #4 Removal '63

Jim, Thanks for your input. I am concerned that JB will hold up to a 1/2 strong bar. I'll certainly keep it in mind. Thanks again!

[Timothy B.]

Re: Body Bolt #4 Removal '63

Jack,

I almost think cutting the head is your only option because I don't think you can get in there to torch the captured nut. It's tight enough just to torch the bolt head without doing damage.

If you do this and are successful, before you lift the body, be sure everything on both sides is removed, bumper brackets etc. I would think both sides need to be loose so the body can pivot. Don't forget about the mounts at the seats.

[Jack Y.]

Re: Body Bolt #4 Removal '63

Thanks Tim! So after I cut it off and get that side up how do I get to the remaining nut and headless bolt? It will be inside and won't the nut keep it from coming thru the hole? Sorry for being so dense and maybe I should just do it and I will answer my own questons once I get it up.

[Jim T.]

Re: Body Bolt #4 Removal '63

Jack I know all the body bolts on my 70 are removable, have not tried it on my 68, no reason to other than to see if then can be removed after 40+ years. However if you do use the JB Weld on the nut request a posting of the results.
I remember seeing two engine head valve faces stuck together using JB Weld over 30 years ago at a parts counter. Don't know how much actual strength it would take to separate them, but the JB Weld was holding them together securely. I remembered this 14 years ago when the metal twist knob that is used to move the dead bolt lock on my glass screen door broke off. I used JB Weld on the knob to attach it. Everytime I twist that knob, it having no more contact area than the break had for the application of the JB Weld, I am still surprised that it has held for so long. The knob is not free turning dead bolt operation, the dead bolt action into the door frame does use inch pounds of torque to move into the door frame. One would not know that JB Weld is securing the knob, it has a minimum application with no application of the JB Weld surrounding the break.

[Ray G.]

Re: Body Bolt #4 Removal '63

Hello Jack;
Just share my experience and hope it helps.
We are writing about the mount behind the rear wheel, correct.

Occasionally we've been successful in vise gripping the caged nut inside the body and soaking w/ penetrating oil overnight. Then working the bolt head from underneath in(clockwise) and out(counter clockwise) till it tighten each way. If you get in to loosen in the nut keep working in & out. Clean the threads on the top end of the bolt before you start by running a new nut on & off.

If that doesn't work clamp the head of the bolt w/ a needle nose visegrips to stop it from spinning while you work. Drill the head off, starting w/ a small bit and working up to a 7/16" bit.
Torch would be my last choice.

Safety glasses are a must.

Regards.
Ray

[Doug F.]

Re: Body Bolt #4 Removal '63

I had the same problem on my '71 LT-1. The bolts were loose, and frozen. I very carefully drilled a 1-1/4" access hole in the front of the body mount, aligning the bottom of the hole with the bottom of the mount. This will allow the use of a cold chisel to remove the light gauge metal "capturing" the nut. It will also allow a box end wrench access to the frozen nut. Use good penetrating oil and remove. After installing the new bolt close the whole with a blank grommet. If you ever need access again, you have it.

[Timothy B.]

Re: Body Bolt #4 Removal '63

Jack,

If you are successful cutting the bolt head, after you lift the body the stub will sticking up for a small pipe wrench. At that point you may be able to wedge something in that cage to hold the nut. Before you cut the cage open, I would heat the stud at the top of the nut and melt some candle wax into the nut.

You don't have to heat cherry hot, just a little bit and you may get lucky. With the body up, there will be room to repair but you need to be careful and patient. Make sure everything is taken off like earlier post stated or you will be sorry. Don't loose shims and use never seize with new bolts.

[Ray C.]

Re: Body Bolt #4 Removal '63

I have inserted a flat blade screw driver between the cage and nut and tapped to a snug fit. I start to apply a good grade penetrating lubricant weeks prior to starting the body removal process.

On occasion the cage broke loose from the body. I then used a good set of locking pliers to lock on to the square nut. Using an air impact wrench on low settings and increase setting as needed. A second set of hands also helps.

Ray

[Jack Y.]

Re: Body Bolt #4 Removal '63

Thanks to all that replied on this, I will just reply to the last one.

I can understand being able to access the caged nut after drilling an access whiole and then chisel or vice grip it. But when others speak of using vice grips or wedging a screwdriver, etc how do you even see the caged nut ? Are they assuming I have already opened up the cage? Sorry for dragging this out...I do appreciate the help. Right now the access hole makes the most sense.

[Ray C.]

Re: Body Bolt #4 Removal '63

Ask as many questions as needed, that is what this forum is for. I am sure more experienced 63 owners will chime in to help you. Make sure you understand the process prior to damaging your 63.

It has been a while since I removed the body from a 63. Mine was a 63 SWC. I believe if you lift the carpeting in the rear above mount #4 it may expose the cage nut, at least it did on the coupe. You may have popped a rivet that secures the cage and that is why the bolt and nut are spinning.

Lift the carpeting in this area to see if it exposes the #4 mount nut.

Ray

[Timothy B.]

Re: Body Bolt #4 Removal '63

Ray,

I think we are talking about the mount forward of the rear wheel. It's tough to access unless the body goes up approx 8".

[Ray C.]

Re: Body Bolt #4 Removal '63

Thanks for the correction, I do not remember a caged nut at this location on my SWC, but I am getting old and forgetful.

Ray

[Jack Y.]

Re: Body Bolt #4 Removal '63

I am dealing with the #4 body mount behind the rear wheel. #3 is out. Does that change anything? Thanks again!