I have a 59 with a 283 that originally had an AFB on it. I decided to change that to a WCFB. I have both carbs and both were just rebuilt, figured I might as well do both at the same time. I have two questions. The original AFB carb sat on top of what appears to be an aluminum spacer appx 3/4" thick. So it's intake/ spacer/ carb ( all of the necessary gaskets are also installed ). I've been told that the spacer is not necessary. Is that correct? I thought it was a type of heat sink to dissipate the heat from the intake. Also with the spacer in place, the 4 studs holding the carb on appear to be really short and only hold the carb on with a few threads.
My second question deals with the idle adjustments. On the AFB there are two screw/idle adjustments, one that sits on the choke cam which is the fast idle and the other is located behind that which I assume is the normal idle. The WCFB that I have has only one screw/idle adjustment (although the book that I have shows 2) and that one idle screw sits on the choke cam. My problem is that when the engine is up to operating temp, I can't get the idle below 950 rpms and that's with manually pushing the linkage as far forward as I can. The engine normally sits at about 1000/1050 rpms. The choke is fully off and the one idle adjustement screw doesn't even touch the cam. Is there an adjustment screw that I'm missing? Were there WCFB's that have only one idle adjustment? How can I get the rpms down to something more reasonable? I could live with700/800 rpms if I could get there without haveing to mash the linkage forward. Would adjusting the mixture screws affect the rpms? I really don't want to play with the mixture adjustment screws unless I absolutely have to. Thanks for any info.
My second question deals with the idle adjustments. On the AFB there are two screw/idle adjustments, one that sits on the choke cam which is the fast idle and the other is located behind that which I assume is the normal idle. The WCFB that I have has only one screw/idle adjustment (although the book that I have shows 2) and that one idle screw sits on the choke cam. My problem is that when the engine is up to operating temp, I can't get the idle below 950 rpms and that's with manually pushing the linkage as far forward as I can. The engine normally sits at about 1000/1050 rpms. The choke is fully off and the one idle adjustement screw doesn't even touch the cam. Is there an adjustment screw that I'm missing? Were there WCFB's that have only one idle adjustment? How can I get the rpms down to something more reasonable? I could live with700/800 rpms if I could get there without haveing to mash the linkage forward. Would adjusting the mixture screws affect the rpms? I really don't want to play with the mixture adjustment screws unless I absolutely have to. Thanks for any info.
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