66 Steering box

[Jim S.]

Hello again,


This question is for all you "know it all" mecanical types. Which as this post will probably show , I am not !

I recieved my new rebuilt Steering box ,and upon inspection looks perfect!
TheY even have the inspection plate bolted with "NAT" bolts.

Upon inspecting the amount of travel however I first attached the Pitman arm onto my old unit and spun it by hand to measure the distance. Once I placed it on the new Gear however , I found I could not spin it to save my life !!

So, Is my old one so worn out that I can spin it by hand , or is the rebuilt one way too tight ?

Jim

[Harmon C.]

Re: 66 Steering box question

If you turn the rag joint by hand it should turn easy and at a point in the center you should notice more tension and then the same as it started lock to lock.The center is the high spot and you should feel it on a fresh rebuild. Spining the pitman are is not the way it operates so I'm not sure how a rebuilt unit will act as I never checked one that way.

[Jim S.]

Re: 66 Steering box

Lyle,

Thanks for that explanation.

It turns out it was set at the center , and it is tighter in that position. I eventually used a set of vise grips on the rag joint end to turn it off the center point and from there I was able to turn it by hand either side of center, with a lot of stregnth.

Compare this to my original , which is easily turned by hand and has no noticable drag in the center . Until now I didn't know which was correct .
Now I know it just means that mine is worn, as one would expect on a 40+ plus year old car.

Jim

[Gary R.]

Re: 66 Steering box

A properly rebuilt box does not require a lot of effort to go from lock to lock. The on-center lash setting should be about 12 in/lbs, if you have to use tools to move it then it's not correct and sounds as if the lash is much too tight. I would check it before driving with it or you'll wear out the gears- if they're not already worn. I rebuild a lot of these boxes and they come in like that a lot, people overadjusted them. Look at the lash screw in the cover are there any threads showing above the nut? There should be a couple, if none the gears are shot most likely. If you paid less then $200 for the box then it does not have new gears in it as well.

[Jim S.]

Re: 66 Steering box

Gary,

Thanks for the tech info. I did indeed spend only $100 for a rebuilt one with exchange. I guess I will send it back and send mine to you for a rebuilding !

What should I pay for a correct rebuild?

Jim

I

[Gary R.]

Re: 66 Steering box

Jim,
If you have access to a 0-30 in/lb dial TW, you can check your box in a bench vise. A clicker won't work and I don't care for the fish scale procedure. Those $100 box specials don't leave much for the rebuilder to make money if he is replacing all the internals, less gears. Rebuild kits vary in quality and range from $50-$70 each so you can see what you're getting. What I've found with a lot of those jobs is the box is painted, over-greased and rarely setup. The bushings and bearings are left in and you may/may not get new seals. One such job was off a 63 SWC and the car was in the family out of state. It was "rebuilt" by a vette shop and when the car was driven to my state I was shocked at the steering on the car. The box was pulled and found to be empty of grease, original parts left in and the gears completely bottomed out.
If I can help you with questions please contact me direct.