Garage heating and cooling

[Joe R.]

Re: Garage heating and cooling

Terry,

I'm sorry to have stirred up that most terrible of human emotions in you. Fortunately, the previous owner put the roof on. I would have a tough time choking down a bill like that. You're right, it's purty and it shore 'nuff is heavy. In addition to the Simpsons, I plan to use metal studs secured to the rafters above and the cement pad below.

Joe

[Paul J.]

Re: Garage heating and cooling

Joe:

Nice looking garage. Built with quality materials. I see what you're saying about the depth.

I don't see any row lock in the masonry, unless they used the metal strips. I trust that there's at least two courses of brick in the wall, especially with that roof. If not you may wish to add a little bit of framing on the load bearing walls.

As far as the moisture barrier, I agree that you should use the Dry-Lock if you don't mind messing up the nice brick. Not only is it a better moisture barrier than Thompson's, it comes in white and other light colors which really help reflect light and make the garage brighter.

Paul

[Joe R.]

Re: Garage heating and cooling

Paul,

Thanks for your kind words.

Yes, the walls are two bricks thick. I was planning to seal the brick, then stud out the walls, insulate and drywall. So, the Drylok wouldn't show. I was only planning to attach the studs to the floor and the rafters. But I could be persuaded to attach them to the walls as well. I figure it would be better to have the studs plumb than to attach them to the brick.

Joe

[Gary C.]

Re: Garage heating and cooling

Joe, don't know if in Missouri whether or not you need a plastic vapor barrier like they do further north, but for sure would fine out. Just a thought. Gary....

[Paul J.]

Re: Garage heating and cooling

Joe, don't know if in Missouri whether or not you need a plastic vapor barrier like they do further north, but for sure would fine out. Just a thought. Gary....

Joe:

Don't seal the brick. You should'nt do it if you're going to insulate the walls. You need to prevent the moisture from entering the wall cavity from the heated side of the structure. This keeps water from condensing in your insulation and rotting out your sill plate and causing mold. That is why you see kraft facing on the inside of insulation. The outside of the insulation needs to breath. Your building codes reflect all of this.

If you seal the brick and then insulate (even with a moisture barrier behind the dry wall) you will get condensate under certain barometric conditions as the interior air cools in the insulation.

I would not seal the brick, but use Gary's suggestion about plastic sheating behind the dry wall and in front of the insulation. Plastic sheeting with unfaced batts provides the best moisture protection. If you can't find unfaced batts, you can either carefully peel off the facing (as I do) or slit the facing.

Sorry about not realizing this sooner. I had a brain freeze about your intention to fir out the walls and insulate.

Paul

[Steven B.]

Re: Garage heating and cooling

How about the spray foam insulation? 'Anyone used that? Tom Silva says----

[Gary C.]

Re: Garage heating and cooling

Steven, foam insulates well, but doesn't breath. For your and my warm, sometimes wet climate it's not good. Don't know about north or middle parts of north America. Gary....

[Steven B.]

Re: Garage heating and cooling

Steven, foam insulates well, but doesn't breath. For your and my warm, sometimes wet climate it's not good. Don't know about north or middle parts of north America. Gary....

Good point Gary!

Steve