C1 Top Fender Moldings

[Dennis G.]

Is there any restoration shop that will replace broken or missing studs on the top fender moldings when doing a restoration. This is for a 1958 and the restoration would include removing some minor dents and polishing.

[Mike M.]

Re: C1 Top Fender Moldings

Hi Dennis,
since no one seems interested, I'll kick this off.
If I recall, and you are speaking of the top fender trim, the "Studs" actually had the stud for the speed nuts on loose clips that would slide in the channel created by the rolled edges of the strip. Typical design for all cars of the era. These you should be able to locate and replace on your own. I recall what a pain it was to position them properly and keep them from sliding. '58's may have been unique, I forgot.
Secondly, search the archives for a trim resto source. There are many that have been previously recommended on this TDB and others that advertise in the Driveline, Hemmings and others.
Hope this helps to stimulate others to chime in, if needed.
HaND

[Ian G.]

Re: C1 Top Fender Moldings

Hey Mike,

I don't think this trim uses separate stud clips. They are welded onto the trim, and then speed nuts hold them in place. One of mine is missing two studs as well.

[Todd A.]

Re: C1 Top Fender Moldings

Ian is right, the studs are stud-welded to the carbon steel backing that supports/holds the stainless. I am currently polishing the moldings for my '58, and it takes some hours.

[Howard M.]

Re: C1 Top Fender Moldings

Chances are that you won't find anybody who will replace the broken studs! If you have patience and can remove the inner steel strip, you can drill out the old stud and replace it with a machined bolt (8/32 or 10/32) with the head ground very thin and held in place with JB weld on the inside.
Good luck

[Joe M.]

Re: C1 Top Fender Moldings

I replaced several broken studs several years ago on my 1960 fender trim. In my case, it was extremely difficult to separate the trim from the steel piece that has the studs. The steel pieces had just enough rust to make it difficult to slide out (i.e. friction the entire length of the trim piece). If I remember correctly, I screwed a nut onto the stud located closest to the open end of the trim, locked the nut into a vice and then tapped on the stainless piece until the steel piece came free. Spray DW-40 down in the gap between the two pieces to lube the surfaces. Be very careful tapping on the SS piece, it will bend if you hit it too hard. If your steel pieces are not rusted into place, you may be able to lock the stud into the vice, put on a pair of gloves, and pull off the SS trim piece. Good Luck.

[Ian G.]

Re: C1 Top Fender Moldings

This is sounding more fun every moment

[Dennis C.]

Re: C1 Top Fender Moldings

Hi Dennis,

I managed to replace 3 or 4 studs on my top fender molding for my '61 by brazing them with silver solder. I soaked a rag in water and placed it under the molding which was laying on a non-combustible surface. Make sure the mounting area is clean and rust free.

I clamped the stud in place and heated the area, being careful to apply the heat sideways and not directly down on the molding. Keep moving the flame in and out to control the heat, so as not to burn the molding.

Touch the silver solder to the work and as soon as it flows pull the torch away. The silver solder melts at a low enough temperature that it will flow before burning the molding.

After the repair was complete I sent the molding out to be polished.

Regards,

Dennis