FI troubleshooting Help needed

[Dave S.]

I have a 61 with a 7320 unit. Car has run great in the past. Parked it a month ago. Now it doesn't want to start or kick over. Tried starting fluid sprayed into the air meter and I get it to run for a second or two and then it quits. Any thoughts on where to go next. Bad ballast resistor ? Cranking signal valve ? Fuel pump ?

[Richard T.]

Re: FI troubleshooting Help needed

Dave,
The ballast resistor is the easiest to check, just connect a good 12 volt source to the positive side of the coil and try to start it. If it runs then your resistor is bad. If that's not it you can test the fuel pump by dissconnecting the fuel line from the fuel meter, add a hose and put the other end of the hose into a coffee can or large jar. Crank the motor and see if your pumping fuel. There's a spec in the ST-12 I believe that gives a quantity of fuel pumped per minute if you want to check volume.
Don't forget to check the cable from the high speed pump. If these checks don't indicate a problem call Jerry Bramlett he's very helpfull. Rich

[Jerry S.]

Re: FI troubleshooting Help needed

Something we learned a long time ago. Remove the rubber fuel line and prime the FI unit.

[Jim L.]

Re: FI troubleshooting Help needed

Tried starting fluid sprayed into the air meter and I get it to run for a second or two and then it quits. Any thoughts on where to go next. Bad ballast resistor ? Cranking signal valve ? Fuel pump ?

If the engine continues to run for a second or two after you release the key, then the ballast resistor is good. If the ballast resistor were bad (open circuit), the engine would die instantly upon releasing the key from the START position.

The problem isn't likely to be the Cranking Signal Valve. Once the engine is running, the CSV is out of the picture. Even if the CSV has failed in the open position, the engine would continue to run....just badly.

The suggestion to check the pump drive cable is a good one as is the suggestion to verify that fuel is reaching the FI unit.

Jim

[Dick W.]

Re: FI troubleshooting Help needed

Where is FIPhart (DeGregory) when you need him???

[Chuck G.]

Re: FI troubleshooting Help needed

If the engine continues to run for a second or two after you release the key, then the ballast resistor is good. If the ballast resistor were bad (open circuit), the engine would die instantly upon releasing the key from the START position.

The problem isn't likely to be the Cranking Signal Valve. Once the engine is running, the CSV is out of the picture. Even if the CSV has failed in the open position, the engine would continue to run....just badly.

The suggestion to check the pump drive cable is a good one as is the suggestion to verify that fuel is reaching the FI unit.

Jim

I'd check the drive cable first. The can break. I've broken several. I always carry 1-2 spares.

Also, I've had the "squares" on the ends of the cable round off on the ends where they insert in the distributor and the FI pump. When they round off, they won't turn the pump.

Chuck

[Dave S.]

Re: FI troubleshooting Help needed

Thanks guys. I guess I can eliminate the CSV and ballast resistor so far. It seems like a fuel problem to me. I will check the drive cable tonite. That is easy enough to do. I'm sure John D. or some expert will have more to offer.

[Chuck G.]

Re: FI troubleshooting Help needed

If it fires on Ether, I think you can assume that the spark end of the equation is OK.

Chuck