My 1960 has base 283 with Powerglide. It starts cold and runs great, but after reaching normal engine temp. and shutting off engine (after 10-15 minutes of driving), it is almost impossible to start. When it finally starts in Park, it idles fine, can be revved up with no problem. Once I place it in Drive or Reverse, it immediately dies and then is hard to start again. This process goes on for about 10 minutes and then it finally starts and I can place it in Drive and it "blubbers" along for 30 seconds and then runs perfect. I thought the choke valve might be closed, but the butterfly valve is open when this problem is occuring. I am stumped. Suggestions?
1960 - Hot Start Problem
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Re: 1960 - Hot Start Problem
It seems to me it's getting to much gas , when hot at idle , the heat will exe- pane the gas in the Carb fuel level , the engine can over come it at a higher idle rpm but then when you go to D or R it stubble's and dies. Have you tried to start it when hot holding the gas pedal wide open? Does it start better?
Simple!! but first I would check the float level when hot by removing the two screws on the Carb side to see if the gas pours out. And if it does I would lower the floats.
It does sound like a fuel problem .
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Re: 1960 - Hot Start Problem
I'm surprised that many people don't know WHY those screws are added ( to check the float level which can also be done while the engine is running ) just like checking the metering rods.Last edited by Roy B.; October 2, 2008, 10:43 AM.- Top
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Re: 1960 - Hot Start Problem
Roy, are you referring to the two slot-head screws shown on the carb photo. If I remove the two screws and gas comes out while the engine is hot, the float is set too high? Does the high gas level cause flooding in the carb?- Top
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Re: 1960 - Hot Start Problem
Joe,
Like Roy said, if fuel comes out of those two screws when cracked, then the fuel level is too high. Another telltale sign is the strong smell of gas after you shut down.
I learned the hard way after pulling my hair out on dual-quads after a rebuild. Even though the float heights were perfectly set to spec on the bench, the front carb in particular kept flooding. Turns out that when mounted on the engine, a few degree front-to-back cant was just enough to allow the fuel, which seeks its own level, to carry over and flood the engine.
So if you have any of those symptoms, carefully pop the carburetor top and bend the float tabs a bit to lower the fuel level. Tip: Be sure to thread the carb screws through a piece of cardboard or styrofoam when removing them to maintain their relative position on reassembly as they are different lengths. And don't tighten them too much - they strip easily!
Mike- Top
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