Are all 65-82 Trailing Arm Assemblies the same?

[Gerard F.]

Since the recent wheel bearing mishap in my 67, I've been looking in the vendor catalogs at these fully assembled rear trailing arms with the spindle, rotor, parking brake as a simple bolt on. They seem to list 65-82 as the same.

Are they physically exactly the same or are there variances from year to year.

Also, does anyone have any recommendations on a shop to restore my original trailing arm assemblies with new spindles, rotors and bearings, in the Modesto, Stockton, CA, or closer to Sonora. I have one tip in the
Sacramento area.

Just exploring options and I think I should do both sides at the same time.
Any recommendations on new, or rebuild the originals (which I'm leaning towards.)

[William C.]

Re: Are all 65-82 Trailing Arm Assemblies the same?

Functionally, they are the same, slight differences in coloration of backing plates in different years, but essentially the same. Around here we send/take them to Bairs in Linesville PA for rebuild, and they turn them around fairly quickly, but a long way from the west coast!

[Dick W.]

Re: Are all 65-82 Trailing Arm Assemblies the same?

Jerry, you can remove the spindle support from the trailing arm and just send it off to be rebuilt, therefore assuring that you retain your trailing arm and saving you from the agony of removing the arm from the car

[Wayne M.]

Re: Are all 65-82 Trailing Arm Assemblies the same?

Are they physically exactly the same or are there variances from year to year.

I've noticed that (on early '65s, at least) there's a drilled hole (approx. 3/16") in the top side of the arm close to the bracket with the nylon guide in which the parking brake cable slides.

Mentioned this to Bair at Carlisle one year, and he was aware of it. Almost certain it shouldn't affect your search for a '67 arrm, though.

[Joe C.]

Re: Are all 65-82 Trailing Arm Assemblies the same?

Since the recent wheel bearing mishap in my 67, I've been looking in the vendor catalogs at these fully assembled rear trailing arms with the spindle, rotor, parking brake as a simple bolt on. They seem to list 65-82 as the same.

Are they physically exactly the same or are there variances from year to year.

Also, does anyone have any recommendations on a shop to restore my original trailing arm assemblies with new spindles, rotors and bearings, in the Modesto, Stockton, CA, or closer to Sonora. I have one tip in the
Sacramento area.

Just exploring options and I think I should do both sides at the same time.
Any recommendations on new, or rebuild the originals (which I'm leaning towards.)

Replacements are all drilled for a rear stabilizer bar.
I would apply a "secret" mark to my trailing arms, to verify that my originals are being returned.
I would only send them to a reputable shop which specializes in Corvette trailing arms.
I would specify that only International Axle replacement spindle(s) are used.
I would send both out for rebuild, at this point.

[Terry M.]

Re: Are all 65-82 Trailing Arm Assemblies the same?

Gerry
Sometime in the later '70s (to me that could mean any time after 1972, but I do think it was after 1975 or so) the location of the clip for the parking brake line (the one the Mickey Mouse retainer comes up against) changed slightly to allow clearance for larger tires. Sometime around 1980 or so the trailing arm got some small holes for a shield for the bearings -- I'm not sure those can be seen when the arm is installed.
During the summer there was a thread, with pictures of the trailing arm changes over time. It might be worth hunting for.

[Joe L.]

Re: Are all 65-82 Trailing Arm Assemblies the same?

Since the recent wheel bearing mishap in my 67, I've been looking in the vendor catalogs at these fully assembled rear trailing arms with the spindle, rotor, parking brake as a simple bolt on. They seem to list 65-82 as the same.

Are they physically exactly the same or are there variances from year to year.

Also, does anyone have any recommendations on a shop to restore my original trailing arm assemblies with new spindles, rotors and bearings, in the Modesto, Stockton, CA, or closer to Sonora. I have one tip in the
Sacramento area.

Just exploring options and I think I should do both sides at the same time.
Any recommendations on new, or rebuild the originals (which I'm leaning towards.)

Jerry-----

The differences in the trailing arms have pretty much been described by others. However, if you consider the complete assembly, including spindle assembly, there are other differences. The 1964-74 spindle supports are a little different than 75-82, although all are functionally interchangeable. The 64-74 have a smaller lower end boss designed for the smaller strut rod ends used for those years.

Also, the spindle supports are dated, although the date is very difficult to discern when mounted on the car.

If the rotors have not been separated from the spindles previously, I recommend keeping them that way. The assemblies can be rebuilt without removing the rotor from the spindle.

The trailing arms should be carefully inspected for corrosion damage. Often times, this will be hidden under the "overlap" joint. If there is any evidence of significant corrosion found such as "swelling" or "de-lamination", the structural integrity of the arms is compromised and I recommend that the arms be replaced with NEW arms. The minor differences seen in later arms is not worth being concerned about and many of these can be eliminated with some rather easy "detail work".

[Michael G.]

Re: Are all 65-82 Trailing Arm Assemblies the same?

Jerry,

I used BAK for my trailing arms and spindle rebuild. Mark Kibbe owner very pleasant, knowledgeable and reasonable. Believe you'll be please.
Regards,
Michael Gill

http://www.bakautomotive.com/

[Gerard F.]

Re: Are all 65-82 Trailing Arm Assemblies the same?

Dick,

Is it possible to remove the spindle support without removing the spindle.

I don't think I'm going to get this spindle off while it is on the car. The spindle shaft seems to be bent, or broken and locked into the support. The wheel just ain't moving in any direction.

Please take a look at the pictures below, what do you think?

I wish there was a way to access the bolts holding the support to the arm take the spindle out with the support, and send it to a shop, or just replace the spindle and support in one piece, without removing the whole trailing arm.

[Joe L.]

Re: Are all 65-82 Trailing Arm Assemblies the same?

Dick,

Is it possible to remove the spindle support without removing the spindle.

I don't think I'm going to get this spindle off while it is on the car. The spindle shaft seems to be bent, or broken and locked into the support. The wheel just ain't moving in any direction.

Please take a look at the pictures below, what do you think?

I wish there was a way to access the bolts holding the support to the arm take the spindle out with the support, and send it to a shop, or just replace the spindle and support in one piece, without removing the whole trailing arm.

Jerry------


Yes, I'd say you likely have a bent spindle shaft. It may have resulted from a seized inner bearing or, perhaps, from some other cause. Do you have any idea how it happened?

In any event, the spindle and support CAN be removed from the car without also removing the trailing arm and can be removed as an assembly. If you remove the rotor from the spindle and remove the parking brake assemblies, you will be able to access the nuts that retain the studs. Remove the nuts and the spindle and support assembly separates from the trailing arm. While I normally don't recommend separating the spindle from the rotor if they're still riveted together, this recommendation does not apply in your case. That's because your spindle is "dead" and will need to be replaced. My recommendation only applies when BOTH the spindle and rotor are serviceable.

The trick is the removal and re-installation of the parking brake assemblies with the spindle in place. There's a bit of an art to it, but it can be done. There is a special tool available from most of the Corvette parts vendors which makes it a bit easier, but you could probably make up the tool. It's very inexpensive (about 10 bucks) so it's probably best to just buy it and be done with it. Even with the tool the job is not a snap, but it's very do-able with a little patience and care.

One other thing I should have mentioned: with a bent spindle like you have, it's going to be pretty much impossible for anyone to press it out. Long-installed spindles are hard enough to press out when they're otherwise in good shape. When they're bent, forget it. So, it's likely that the spindle will have to be cut out by using a cutting torch on the inner bearing. Usually, this causes no "collateral" damage to the spindle support since the bearing outer race serves as a "buffer". However, it is possible to ruin a spindle support this way if the person wielding the torch is inexperienced or careless.

[Gerard F.]

Re: Are all 65-82 Trailing Arm Assemblies the same?

Joe,

I think it was the parking brake that caused the problem. In leaving the Elk Grove meet, we all noticed this clicking from the left rear. I played around with the parking brake back and forth, and the noise seemed to go away.

However, if you take a look at the photo with the parking brake shoe, you will see some melted metal slag on the dust shield. My theory was that the parking brake was always rubbing, and that at high speed it built up enough heat to melt and cook a few things. One thing leads to another and then bam.

So I guess it is time to drill out the rotor rivets. As you may remember, I was going to address the parking brake problem some time ago but was leery about drilling out the rotor rivets. I even got the parking brake kit and that tool which looks like a screwdriver with a diagonal slot in it. But a few health issues got in the way, and I let it go.

So Plan A now is to get new spindle and support assembly with the bearing installed, and maybe a new (unriveted)rotor. I have the brake kit.
I might just tap in a 3/8" countersunk screw in place of the rivet as you suggested in the past.

However, if the trailing arm is not in good shape, I might as well go to Plan B and replace the whole trailing arm assembly.

And do both sides the same.

Hmm, was thinking what I could do with a original trailing arm on a work bench with a camera and a lot of time.

[Joe L.]

Re: Are all 65-82 Trailing Arm Assemblies the same?

Joe,

I think it was the parking brake that caused the problem. In leaving the Elk Grove meet, we all noticed this clicking from the left rear. I played around with the parking brake back and forth, and the noise seemed to go away.

However, if you take a look at the photo with the parking brake shoe, you will see some melted metal slag on the dust shield. My theory was that the parking brake was always rubbing, and that at high speed it built up enough heat to melt and cook a few things. One thing leads to another and then bam.

So I guess it is time to drill out the rotor rivets. As you may remember, I was going to address the parking brake problem some time ago but was leery about drilling out the rotor rivets. I even got the parking brake kit and that tool which looks like a screwdriver with a diagonal slot in it. But a few health issues got in the way, and I let it go.

So Plan A now is to get new spindle and support assembly with the bearing installed, and maybe a new (unriveted)rotor. I have the brake kit.
I might just tap in a 3/8" countersunk screw in place of the rivet as you suggested in the past.

However, if the trailing arm is not in good shape, I might as well go to Plan B and replace the whole trailing arm assembly.

And do both sides the same.

Hmm, was thinking what I could do with a original trailing arm on a work bench with a camera and a lot of time.

Jerry-----


It will be interesting to see what's found when it comes apart. I just don't see how anything connected with the parking brake could have caused this to occur. However, if other things occurred, the parking brake assembly could have gotten extremely hot and melted something, most likely the aluminum pins that retain the parking brake shoes to the backing plate.

When a bearing failure occurs, things get VERY HOT. Then, all sorts of other things can and do happen. Have the bearings in this assembly ever been serviced or replaced? If not, I can almost guarantee you that the bearings were completely "dry". Wheel bearing grease of the day was a combination of an oil + a soap. The oil eventually "takes its leave" of the soap and leaves the soap behind. I'll bet you find a dry, caked material in the bearings IF the heat generated didn't completely incinerate it.

Almost regardless of mileage, there's virtually no way that rear bearing grease will last 40+ years, especially considering the grease formulations that were originally used. You might want to check the bearings on the other side. Raise the car at the rear and grasp the tire at the top and bottom. Try to move it in and out in a rocking motion. I'll bet you'll be surprised how much movement there is. In any event, you need to service the bearings on the "good" side, too, if they've never been serviced. Otherwise, you'll soon end up with the same situation on "good" side as you have on the failed side.

[Joe C.]

Re: Are all 65-82 Trailing Arm Assemblies the same?

Jerry-----


It will be interesting to see what's found when it comes apart. I just don't see how anything connected with the parking brake could have caused this to occur. However, if other things occurred, the parking brake assembly could have gotten extremely hot and melted something, most likely the aluminum pins that retain the parking brake shoes to the backing plate.

When a bearing failure occurs, things get VERY HOT. Then, all sorts of other things can and do happen. Have the bearings in this assembly ever been serviced or replaced? If not, I can almost guarantee you that the bearings were completely "dry". Wheel bearing grease of the day was a combination of an oil + a soap. The oil eventually "takes its leave" of the soap and leaves the soap behind. I'll bet you find a dry, caked material in the bearings IF the heat generated didn't completely incinerate it.

Almost regardless of mileage, there's virtually no way that rear bearing grease will last 40+ years, especially considering the grease formulations that were originally used. You might want to check the bearings on the other side. Raise the car at the rear and grasp the tire at the top and bottom. Try to move it in and out in a rocking motion. I'll bet you'll be surprised how much movement there is. In any event, you need to service the bearings on the "good" side, too, if they've never been serviced. Otherwise, you'll soon end up with the same situation on "good" side as you have on the failed side.

Jerry,

The e-brake did not cause your failure. Clicking is a sign of brinnelled bearings in imminent failure mode. The application of the e-brake will change the loading on the bearing which may or may not alleviate the clicking, temporarily. It was purely coincidental!

If the bearing failed catastrophically, then the rollers and cage will disintegrate, the heat created will be sufficient to fuse the inner race to the spindle. Of course, spindle replacement becomes necessary if the bearing was allowed to become dry enough to disintegrate.

The "slag" that you see is remnants of brake dust/metallic particles that become "faux sintered" in situ over time, as a result of air flow within the brake assemblies. This dry residue can be easily scraped off.

Here is a handy link for you to use:

http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=content.home&pageID=11

In support of what I said to you last night, this goes to show you just how accommodating Art at VS is. I'll repeat for the other folks' benefit, that VS would be my first choice to accomplish the rebuild. Again, be sure to specify International Axle spindles, which are FAR superior to the GM replacements. Damn the torpedoes and remove the rivets......they are redundant and unnecessary.