New to Site

[Joe H.]

Hello. I've been an NCRS member for some time, but am new to this site. So, I thought I'd make my first post with a restoration question. Hopefully I can get some great advice.

I have a '68 327/300 matching number two-top convertible with A/C. I am 85% complete with a body-off restoration. Mostly what's left are ancillary details. My question is about the AC system. It had been removed form the car when I bought it so I have nothing to compare to... I don't really like the clamp-style AC hoses used for '68. My understanding is that it's hard to keep the freon charge. I don't want to kill the originality of the car, but is there an easy way I can use later style (e.g. '69) crimped hoses? As far as I can tell, I would need a different condenser inlet line to do this. Or is that a bad idea? At any rate, I also need the hard line from the bottom of the condenser to the accumulator/drier. Any ideas where to get this from?

[Chuck S.]

Re: New to Site

Hello. I've been an NCRS member for some time, but am new to this site. So, I thought I'd make my first post with a restoration question. Hopefully I can get some great advice.

I have a '68 327/300 matching number two-top convertible with A/C. I am 85% complete with a body-off restoration. Mostly what's left are ancillary details. My question is about the AC system. It had been removed form the car when I bought it so I have nothing to compare to... I don't really like the clamp-style AC hoses used for '68. My understanding is that it's hard to keep the freon charge. I don't want to kill the originality of the car, but is there an easy way I can use later style (e.g. '69) crimped hoses? As far as I can tell, I would need a different condenser inlet line to do this. Or is that a bad idea? At any rate, I also need the hard line from the bottom of the condenser to the accumulator/drier. Any ideas where to get this from?

Joe, if you're doing an authentic restoration with the intention of having it judged, I would not consider modifying the AC hose and tubing set from its original configuration.

Maybe I'm underinformed, but I have not heard enough complaints of refrigerant leakage to merit a change in configuration. The point deduction would probably be minor, but it's an alteration from original configuration and that would concern me. For a driver resto, (reversible) visible changes to incorporate later technology for convenience or reliability would be OK in my opinion. Generally, I favor using invisible or hidden changes to improve technology of any restoration when possible.

[Wayne W.]

Re: New to Site

My 67 still has the original hoses and clamps and except for my tampering with a fitting , it would still have the original freon. I dont think there is a leak problem.

[Mike M.]

Re: New to Site

our 64 365 AC coupe got its c-60 system replaced in the late 70's and charged with freon. i used the original clamps. its still holding a charge after all these years. wish i'd held up that good. use the original hoses and clamps. mike

[Dick W.]

Re: New to Site

The clamped on hoses were not the problem. Lack of use resulted in lack of lubrication of the front seal on the compressor. It would seep freon. The new cars either engage the compressor momentarily when the engine starts, or use the compressor to help kill the engine when cutting the switch off, therefor lubing the seal.

If all the fittings are good, used the original

[Chuck S.]

Re: New to Site

The clamped on hoses were not the problem. Lack of use resulted in lack of lubrication of the front seal on the compressor. It would seep freon. The new cars either engage the compressor momentarily when the engine starts, or use the compressor to help kill the engine when cutting the switch off, therefor lubing the seal.

If all the fittings are good, used the original

Dick is correct. The AC has to run occasionally to replenish the oil film between the seal faces. The owner's manuals for cars with AC back in the sixties told you to run your AC for a short time ever so often; I guess they figure we're spoiled, and it's not necessary to mention this for the new cars.

Mechanical seals like the ones used in automotive AC compressors seal by holding two ultraflat surfaces, one rotating and one stationary, together by spring tension. These surfaces are so flat that flatness must be measured by "light bands", or the wavelength of light.

In spite of this flatness of the seal faces, inevitable microscopic wear scratches must be filled by the pumped product, in this case refrigerant oil in the freon, to prevent leakage. A thin film of refrigerant oil is held by surface tension between the seal faces. Like your engine bearings, this thin film of oil also lubricates and separates the seal faces during operation, thereby minimizing wear.

While most of the oil between the seal faces flashes to vapor before leaking to the atmosphere, some oil seepage from the seal is possible and does not indicate a need for maintenance...visible leakage thrown off the pulley does indicate need for maintenace.