Hello all, I have a few questions related to keeping the classic at top condition. (1) What is the best way to maintain a recent restoration so that after several years it maintains it's looks. (2) Considering an older restoration, what is the best way to "freshen the car up". Any good books related to this subject? Thx Tony
-
-
Re: Preservation...best practices
Tony,
The best way to keep a restoration fresh is to not drive your car. I drove my '60 on the road tour to Boston when I got Duntov, so I can tell you, once you do, there'll be chips on the paint and dust on the chassis and oil drips from wherever oil can drip. If you want to drive your car, expect this, so you won't be upset when it all happens. I figure I can restore it again one day anyway!
As to an older resto, buffing, waxing, cleaning, vacuuming, Simple Green, Armor-All and lots of elbow grease!
Bob -
Re: Preservation...best practices
Bob - How about the top? What's best cleaner for that?
Thanks
tdhttps://MichiganNCRS.org
Michigan Chapter
Tom DingmanComment
-
Re: Preservation...best practices
Best way to keep the restoration looking new is to not drive the car, and keep it in a climate controlled garage.
You may not wish to do all that. But a garage is a must. The car will deteriorate if stored outside. And the garage needs to have humidity control to help keep the metal parts from rusting. Bolt heads, unpainted steel parts, etc. will all start to show surface rust when there's humidity in the air. A dehumidifier will take the moisture out of the air. But dehumidifiers don't work below around 40F. The cold doesn't hurt the car. But the moisture that'll collect on a car that's in a garage when the temperature goes from below 40F to over 40F will. If you can't keep the car in a heated and humidity controlled garage, consider one of those car bags.Comment
-
Re: Preservation...best practices
Tom, I assume you are referring to the soft top. I follow the old GM instructions, wash gently with warm soap and water, don't scratch the plastic window on pre glass tops, dry well and I store with the top up. I have found the cloth in eye glass cleaning kits is good to use on the soft top window if you have to touch it. My top was installed in the summer of '65 and unfortunately I found nothing to stop the thread from weakening after that many years.
The humidity is critical as discussed. I put a dehumidifier in the garage and "dry packets" you can get from Corvette supply houses in the interior, trunk, etc. Since I like to spend alot of time with the cars I usually keep winter heat at 60 or above (not hard to do in Texas).
SteveComment
-
Re: Preservation...best practices
Two years ago I bought one of those "Car Bubbles " out at Carlisle. I have a one car garage with only one house heat vent in it. Never gets warm enough. The bubble is one of the best investments I have ever made - I was told that if air is circulating at all times that moisture can not form. I do throw some dry packets in it - I am really pleased with the set up.
Comment
-
Re: Preservation...best practices
Never drive it and just sit in a chair and look at it and care for it, then the next owner ( and there will be a next owner) may enjoy it and drive it like it was meant ! I don't mean to be a AO but the day after I did a total body off recondition I drove it and still do after 30 years.
I wonted a near new OLD Corvette to show and drive and it's been worth every dollar and the money to keep it original and running.Comment
-
Comment
-
Re: Preservation...best practices
Don't forget to seal the garage floor wherever or however you keep it. If the frame is open to a bare concrete floor, it will pull the moisture out of the floor and cause under carriage corrosion. I used to have a thick vinyl mat that covered the entire floor beneath the car and I had no problem. When I moved to Florida I pitched it as it was deteriorating and hard to ship. Here I have just used cardboard, even on a sealed concrete floor and I am getting lots of surface corrosion.
Stu FoxComment
-
Re: Preservation...best practices
I'm with Roy & David! If I can't drive it, then I don't need it anymore!
My 60 was an everyday driver from 1970 till about 1996. Now I only get to drive it one or so days a week. $4 a gallon is somewhat to blame, but also, I am 6' 2" and go a swelt 250# - that car was not designed for guys my size! (From 1970 to 1996 I was a bit less than that 250#!)Comment
-
Re: Preservation...best practices
I run rubber backed indoor/outdoor carpeting the length of my garage at all times and leave it under my bubble when I store my car for the winter. It works real well at a very low price
Comment
-
Re: Preservation...best practices
I believe there is a middle ground whereby you can drive your car relatively often AND keep it nearly resto fresh.
First, like others said a climate controlled garage is a must. Storing the car out of the sun, extreme temperatures and moisture is the key. And if you normally limit driving your Vette to dry, cool days, it takes very little toll on the car. Finally, I clean any road crap off my cars and re-detail them as soon as they cool off after nearly every single drive.
I drive my cars at least once a week and they still look brand new, and running them vigorously at least this often keeps them in great operating shape. And not driving them daily makes it feel extra special when I do drive them.
Yes, even periodic drives will get dust on the chasis, but even that is pretty easy to clean off every now and then if you chose to. And anyhow, unless there's some overly anal guy under your car with a flashlight and mirror, does it really matter if you can't eat off the underside?
Comment
Comment