need advice to rebuild 550 heads for '59 FI

[John N.]

Re: need advice to rebuild 550 heads for '59 FI

Jim-----




For those individuals so-afflicted but requiring new rocker studs, the rocker studs can be replaced with the non-flanged style screw-in. These simply require drilling and tapping of the existing rocker stud bosses. Once installed, it's difficult to discern the difference between a pressed-in stud and the screw-in (although it can be discerned). There are no really high quality studs of this type on the market, but these are available from Pioneer and other engine parts sources and the quality is adequate for street applications. Using this type screw-in stud for those treating restoration as a religion may be considered only a "venial" sin.

I used these non-flanged style screw-in studs. I would never again use them. I lost or cracked two stud bosses when the expanded portion of the studs screwed into the bosses while adjusting the lifters.

[Clem Z.]

Re: need advice to rebuild 550 heads for '59 FI

never use bronze valve guide inserts with valves that do not have chrome plated stems.

[Joe L.]

Re: need advice to rebuild 550 heads for '59 FI

I used these non-flanged style screw-in studs. I would never again use them. I lost or cracked two stud bosses when the expanded portion of the studs screwed into the bosses while adjusting the lifters.

John-----


I'm certainly not a fan of using this type of rocker stud. However, if someone needs to replace a stud for whatever reason, they have, basically, 3 choices:

1) Use a new over-size, press-in stud. This can cause rocker stud boss cracking or other problems. In fact, it's more likely to cause these problems than the flangeless, screw-in studs. In addition, subsequent "pull-out" is often a problem. Original configuration is retained, though;

2) Drill and tap existing bosses for flangeless, screw-in studs. Near original configuration is retained, but the problems you described are possible. Subsequent field replacement of studs is much more practical. No danger of "pull-out";

3) Machine rocker stud bosses and drill and tap for flange-type rocker studs. Original configuration is completely lost but studs are problem-free and easily replaced, if necessary.

My choice is ALWAYS (3). Others may have to resort to (1) or (2) depending upon their zeal to maintain original configuration even though said configuration is, basically, indiscernable with a fully assembled engine.