I had the cyl. heads rebuilt for my 1965 327/300 roadster and now have the engine back together and running. It idles OK and accelerates OK but misses (detonates?) at any cruising speed - does not backfire or make any noises that I can hear. I have had the car for 25 years and have never had this problem before. I read a bunch of posts about engine problems and think maybe mine could be similar to several that pointed to an incorrect vac can. The can is a "replacement" from Mid America - have no idea of its specs. I thought I kept the orig. can but it seems I pitched it out. I carefully rebuilt the Carter 3721 SB AFB, cleaned and lubed the dist. and kept the LL breakerless system that I have had for 5 years with never a problem. Replaced battery cables, spark plug wires, spark plugs, coil, and fuel filter. I have fiddled with the initial timing to see if it cruised better to no effect. Will appreciate any ideas to solve problem. Except for the heads machining I have done all the work on the car myself since I bought it. Maybe time to find an expert tune-up shop?
-
-
Re: 1965 327/300 Engine Miss
What is the ID stamped on the VAC? -
Re: 1965 327/300 Engine Miss
Duke - Thanks for your reply. The Vac Can is stamped with the number 236. FYI when I set the initial timing at 8* BTC with vac line plugged and then reconnect vac line, the timing advances to maybe 30+* at about 800 RPM. I think I can do almost anything (by the manual) that is needed, but I need instructions in plain english. Thanks
Retired Accountant Ken Gedddes (37269)Comment
-
Re: 1965 327/300 Engine Miss
Misfire and detonation are two completely different problems. In any event, that's the wrong part number VAC for your engine, and many "repro" VACs with OE numbers stamped on them are no where near correct specs anyway, so that VAC is suspect on every account. The "236" is correct for SHP/FI engines of the era, but this repro "236" may be nowhere near correct 236 specs. It is easy to check with a Mighty Vac and dial back timing light. You should also use a dial back light to determine the centrifugal curve and see how it compares to OE specs.
With 8 initial and a real 236 VAC connected the total idle timing should be about 24 and the engine should idle smooth at 500 in neutral, so the VAC is likely out of spec.
The original VAC for your year 327/300 is an oddball one year only, which is not well suited to the engine, and then there was a runing change. There was an extensive thread about this only about two weeks ago, which should be easy to find.
Spend 10 bucks on a NAPA VC1802 (stamped B22) or equivalent in another brand, install it and see how the engine runs.Comment
Comment