Acrylic Laquer in California

[Mark P.]

I can buy Acrylic Laquer from The Restoration Shop (part of TCP Global) in San Diego California. Is this the same type of paint that was used in 1960 ? Is Acrylic Laquer what most people use now for their NCRS cars ?

Does anyone know a shop in Northern California that can spray Acrylic Laquer and can do an NCRS paint job ? I haven't found a shop yet that can spray laquer.

[Barry K.]

Re: Acrylic Laquer in California

nope, today's lacquer paint is much different than the original lacquers the older cars were painted with at the factory. The biggest difference is that the lead in the paint was removed and that makes it much less durable.
I've had both of my Vettes painted over the last 4 years and both painters that did them tell everyone of their customers that they will spray lacquer if requested but only recommend it if the car is going to be a trailer queen show car. If you plan on driving the car and enjoying it they recommend going BC/CC or enamel paint.
I ended up strippping lacquer off both cars and repainting with BC/CC because I drive my cars and don't go thru judging to be concerned about losing points.

I'm not sure about Ca. but I believe many states do not allow lacquer to be sprayed at all anymore because of environmental reasons.

If you are most concerned about judging than lacquer may be your best choice, but you can also consider Enamel or BC/CC and there are ways to make it look more like lacquer such as dulling down the gloss in the door jambs and hood gutter channels, etc

[Steven B.]

Re: Acrylic Laquer in California

Mark:

I just had my painter in Ohio strip and repaint my '58 with a single stage white, which is closer to the acrylic lacq. but much more durable. He told me that he could do a present day lacq. but to make sure that the birds don't crap on the car because wiping it off will take the paint off with it. He also used some gloss reducing additives for the jambs. He also invested in a paint booth, so he can use some of the paints that others might not be able to due to adhering to environmental concerns.

[Michael H.]

Re: Acrylic Laquer in California

Mark:

I just had my painter in Ohio strip and repaint my '58 with a single stage white, which is closer to the acrylic lacq. but much more durable. He told me that he could do a present day lacq. but to make sure that the birds don't crap on the car because wiping it off will take the paint off with it. He also used some gloss reducing additives for the jambs. He also invested in a paint booth, so he can use some of the paints that others might not be able to due to adhering to environmental concerns.

This discussion brings up a question about single stage and base/clear. I have never used either so I'll be learning as we go but...

If single stage looks similar to original lacquer paint but base/clear looks nothing like original lacquer paint, why would anyone even consider base/clear for a restoration?
Am I missing something here?

[Mike M.]

Re: Acrylic Laquer in California

No, Michael, you don't miss anything.
HaND

[Greg L.]

Re: Acrylic Laquer in California

I don't have an answer to your questions Mark but you might find this thread interesting to read. http://autobodystore.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5804

[Bill M.]

Re: Acrylic Laquer in California

If single stage looks similar to original lacquer paint but base/clear looks nothing like original lacquer paint, why would anyone even consider base/clear for a restoration?
Am I missing something here?

Single stage enamel does not need to be buffed. I think you will have the same issues with unbuffed areas (door jambs, etc.) as you will with base/clear.

[Steven B.]

Re: Acrylic Laquer in California

Single stage enamel does not need to be buffed. I think you will have the same issues with unbuffed areas (door jambs, etc.) as you will with base/clear.

Bill, you may be right on that, I'm not an expert, only a satisfied customer, but that is probably why my painter used a de-glossing additive in the paint for the jamb area. Probably the only way to get it without the gloss look.

[Joel F.]

Re: Acrylic Laquer in California

This discussion brings up a question about single stage and base/clear. I have never used either so I'll be learning as we go but...

If single stage looks similar to original lacquer paint but base/clear looks nothing like original lacquer paint, why would anyone even consider base/clear for a restoration?
Am I missing something here?

Michael,

Metallic paints generally are done in BC/CC. You can do it in single stage, but it is hard to get a good finish with an acceptable shine.

The reason is that in single stage, you have the metallic suspended in resin. Spray it too wet and the particles lay down and the finish looks mottled. If you spray too dry the metallic stays near the surface and needs polishing to look good, and the risk is that you polish off some metallic and have an uneven finish. The trick then becomes spraying wet enough be able to buff to a good shine, but dry enough so the metallic does non lay down so the finish looks even.

Or you can do what most people do and shoot in bc/cc where you can go as dry as you want and then lay down the cc to get your shine. Yes it is a deeper finish but a good painter should be able to make it look significantly like lacquer.

Just my $.02

Joel

[Joel F.]

Re: Acrylic Laquer in California

I should have mentioned that my comments on BC/CC apply only to metallic finishes. For solid colors, SS does a very nice job.

[Michael H.]

Re: Acrylic Laquer in California

Michael,

Metallic paints generally are done in BC/CC. You can do it in single stage, but it is hard to get a good finish with an acceptable shine.

The reason is that in single stage, you have the metallic suspended in resin. Spray it too wet and the particles lay down and the finish looks mottled. If you spray too dry the metallic stays near the surface and needs polishing to look good, and the risk is that you polish off some metallic and have an uneven finish. The trick then becomes spraying wet enough be able to buff to a good shine, but dry enough so the metallic does non lay down so the finish looks even.

Or you can do what most people do and shoot in bc/cc where you can go as dry as you want and then lay down the cc to get your shine. Yes it is a deeper finish but a good painter should be able to make it look significantly like lacquer.

Just my $.02

Joel

Ok, thanks Joel. I wondered about that too but would the metallic issue be different than it was with lacquer? Guessing, I would say probably yes, as enamel type paints remain wet longer than lacquer so the metalic particles move a lot more before the paint sets.

I'd like to experiment with a little metallic single stage.

[Dick W.]

Re: Acrylic Laquer in California

Good color to experiment with Michael would be Sebring Silver, it is mostly clear and binders with very little else but flake

[Michael H.]

Re: Acrylic Laquer in California

Good color to experiment with Michael would be Sebring Silver, it is mostly clear and binders with very little else but flake

That color may be a bit more of a test than I'm looking for. I've heard stories about the unique metallic in Sebring Silver being anywhere from fish scales to particles from outer space.
Think I'll start slow and play wit Milano maroon first.

[Bill M.]

Re: Acrylic Laquer in California

Think I'll start slow and play wit Milano maroon first.

Good choice. Make sure you get a correct (small) metallic size and make sure your primer coat is all one color...hard lesson I learned.

[Dick W.]

Re: Acrylic Laquer in California

Michael, Barry K has a good formula for MM. Go to his web site, look under the technical link, go to body (I believe) and he lists the mixing formula for PPG