Any last minute advice on spraying metallics?

[Pat M.]

Re: Any last minute advice on spraying metallics?

can you buff metallics

Yes. After painting my painter buffed, and only buffed, the lacquer on my Marlboro Maroon 70. Came out excellent - no mottling, and easy to control the amount of orange peel and shininess.
And I agree it's wise to apply a little more paint around the fender peaks - mine have yet to develop the usual small cracks after doing this.

[Greg L.]

Re: Any last minute advice on spraying metallics?

Thanks guys, that's more good info.

Mike how long was it from the time you sprayed on the DPLF to when you sprayed the initial topcoat? I still don't like the idea of using it because of what their tech rep said but we'll see. I don't have a problem with it sticking to the primer because the tech sheet says that it will and PhilV told me how to spray it so that it will work but my problem is the potential lifting from spraying the lacquer over it.... Speaking of Len's site...that lintmann guy sure causes a lot of problems over there with all his crazy lacquer questions doesn't he? Ever wonder who that lintmann character is? Thanks Chuck for directing me to that site a while back.

Chuck I spent a bit of time last night on the PPG site and I couldn't find any sealers that are for lacquer so that is probably why the rep didn't suggest any. I found lots of sealer....just not one for lacquers. The DPLF is the closest that they have and according to them I have to spray everything the same day or risk problems.

Joe, the multiple coats might be my one saving grace! I'm told that silver is one of the worst colors to spray for a first timer and that I should practice a bit on something first. Well I guess in a way I will be practicing a bit....on my first several coats and what better way to do it that all on the same car!

Bill I don't think I'll remove the hood and doors because I "want" the overspray look where it should be but spraying the peaks and edges first will be something that I definitely do.

[Chuck S.]

Re: Any last minute advice on spraying metallics?

...Speaking of Len's site...that lintmann guy sure causes a lot of problems over there with all his crazy lacquer questions doesn't he? Ever wonder who that lintmann character is? ...

Yeah, I haven't seen that lintmann troublemaker in action over there, but I have seen his type creating chaos before...I wonder why he wants to get them old solvent heads riled up like that?

...Chuck I spent a bit of time last night on the PPG site and I couldn't find any sealers that are for lacquer so that is probably why the rep didn't suggest any. I found lots of sealer....just not one for lacquers. The DPLF is the closest that they have and according to them I have to spray everything the same day or risk problems...

PPG has discontinued products over the years as the direction of the industry has changed, but like DDL, you may still be able to find something specific out there for a sealer.

I have an old catalog, and a quick cursory look brings Del-Seal to my immediate attention. I wouldn't be surprised if Del-Seal wasn't the original sealer for acrylic lacquer, which may explain why it's not on their site anymore. It can also be used under acrylic urethane, Deltron BC/CC...just about everything. You would want to use DAS 1980 (gray) since the original factory sealer was gray, and that color will work best with the Cortez Silver.

As for spraying three coats, sanding, then spraying another two coats, I'm totally confused...you jump through hoops to get that old timey acrylic lacquer, and then you apply it like those old hot rodders of the day. Whuts up with that??!! If you want the "original" look, don't over restore the car...spray the sealer, spray two coats of lacquer, and then, if you can't see through to the sealer, stick it with a fork. HaHaHa...Gotchya!

Seriously now, I believe I would start with a modest trial using the exhaust panel. Dude, the first few passes with that new gun, you're going to be moving too slow and too mechanically, and fumbling like a new groom on his honeymoon. If you screw up the exhaust panel, you can redo it with little trouble.

I would hang the panel like it hangs on the car, and lean how to make uninterrupted passes with lots of overlap (about 2/3 of the previous pass). I wouldn't worry too much the exhaust panel being a perfect match anyway...the exhaust panel installed on the car was very likely not the one that was painted with the car anyway. It will look more original if it doesn't match...I mean, if you're going for the uncompromising look of originality.

Edit:

...Just a quick question for anyone about the flash-off time...PPG says 5-10 minutes between coats but would it hurt anything to wait even longer like say 20-30 minutes?

Oops, missed this one. Think about it, Gregster...if you're painting a car properly, it's an academic question: there's no possible way you can go all the way around a car to apply the first coat in 10 minutes. Well, maybe, if you have painted a million cars, and you're careless. That is a MINIMUM flash time, with some consideration given for ambient temperature...if it's cooler, better wait at least ten minutes.

[Mike G.]

Sealer Incubation Time

Greg:

I masked the car and wiped it down with DX330 and called it a day. Jambs and drip rails were done previously.
Next morning, gave it a final wipe with some alcohol-based stuff, tacked it off and then shot 1 medium coat of DPLF reduced using the sealer ratio per the p-sheet.

I let the DPLF dry for about six hours and then shot 3 coats of DDL. I was careful not to make that first coat too heavy.

Unmasked after a hour or so, and then called it a day.
Next morning, rolled it out into the sun to admire how nice it looked all one color.

After 3 weeks, hit it with 800 where there were nibs or overspray and then did the final 3 coats.

I was surprised at how slow that DDL is to harden up. After a month, I could still make a fingernail mark if I pressed moderately hard in some areas. More flash-off time would have helped, I'm sure. I was using medium/slow reducer to get better leveling, and I should have waited 30 minutes between coats.

Best of luck Lintmann! What's so cool about painting it yourself is that you're not in mortal fear of suffering some damage down the road. It's just another fix-it. Like knowing how to rebuild your Muncie or change out a camshaft.

[Chuck S.]

Re: Sealer Incubation Time

...Next morning, gave it a final wipe with some alcohol-based stuff, tacked it off and then shot 1 medium coat of DPLF reduced using the sealer ratio per the p-sheet...

A good recommendation...I would not use oil and grease remover, e.g. DX330, after the spraying the primer. I don't even like using a tack rag on the clean surface...I only blow it off in an immaculately clean spray area.

Once the primer is sanded and washed well with soapy water, use only alcohol based products for wipedown. I know Omni had an alcohol wipedown product (a cheap alternative), and I expect PPG also has one. DX330 is distillate based...if you are not careful, oil and grease removers will leave fish eye in the finish coats. Yes, that's right...I know from experience.

[Stan E.]

Re: Any last minute advice on spraying metallics?

I can't emphasize enough the importance of removeing all the WATER from the air! Good ventilation will keep you from getting goofy and forgetting to keep the gun away from the car. Just a few thoughts from an old lead guy.

[Tracy C.]

Re: Any last minute advice on spraying metallics?

....
Chuck I spent a bit of time last night on the PPG site and I couldn't find any sealers that are for lacquer so that is probably why the rep didn't suggest any. I found lots of sealer....just not one for lacquers. The DPLF is the closest that they have and according to them I have to spray everything the same day or risk problems.....

.

Greg, I've painted a half of dozen cars and used the DPLF as a sealer on all of them. As long as you get a coat of color on it within 24 hours you can wait as long as you want to finish the rest of the paint job.

Good Luck!

tc

[Greg L.]

Re: Any last minute advice on spraying metallics?

Hey Tracy is this DPLF something that I need a fresh air respirator for or can I just use a regular respirator?

[Dick W.]

Re: Any last minute advice on spraying metallics?

The DPLF is the best product that they have to seal the body with. One of the fears with lacquer is that as slow drying as the product is today that it will penetrate any bodywork and bring evidence of such to the top. The DP helps keep the thinner from penetrating the primer plus it creates a chemical bond with the primer and the top coat

[Greg L.]

Re: Any last minute advice on spraying metallics?

Well maybe I should spray on some of this DPLF then. How much do you guys think I'd need for my coupe? I assume that the door jambs get done as well?

I feel that we need a "dunce" icon in our smiles box because I think that I could have used it a few times for myself!

[Dick W.]

Re: Any last minute advice on spraying metallics?

Read the product sheet, I believe you reduce it 100% when using as a sealer

[Tracy C.]

Re: Any last minute advice on spraying metallics?

Hey Tracy is this DPLF something that I need a fresh air respirator for or can I just use a regular respirator?

A good fitting quality fresh air respirator is all I use. I've only used a fresh air mask once when I shot Imron on my 4 X 4 many moons ago. It was a real PITA.

tc

[Chuck S.]

Re: Any last minute advice on spraying metallics?

Hey Tracy is this DPLF something that I need a fresh air respirator for or can I just use a regular respirator?

Ideally, you should use a fresh air mask (full face and a paint suit with heavy gloves) with any catalyzed paint product...catalyzed urethane clears are by far the worst for breathing the vapors.

If you're only painting one car, you'll probably be OK as Tracy says with a "well-fitting" respirator with fresh paint catridges. I've done it myself for one car...I am getting a little short of breath, but my doc discounts that as the reason. If I croak because of plastic in my lungs, I'll have my wife sue him for malpractice (only kidding).