Fuel line replacement with body on for mid-year

[Ron R.]

I have done a search on this topic and know it has been addressed before.

I know the best way to replace the tank to pump line is with the body off. I know some members have done it with a splice.

Did anyone take a photo of the line they replaced showing how it was run and the splice?

Can the replacemnet line be cut and joined together with unions?

Has this topic ever been covered in The Restorer?

I have a 66 smallblock roadster. The former owner ran a bendable copper tubing line next to the original line.

From the fuel pump to the kick up he ran it next to the original line.

After the kick up area, he ran it on the outside of the frame between the body and the frame in the wheel whell area. I am concerned that the brass is soft and not used for fuel lines.

I purchased a replacement repro steel line.

Pictures would be a great help here.

[Stuart F.]

Re: Fuel line replacement with body on for mid-year

Ron;

Hope you get a response on this. I'd like to know too, even though mine is a 63, I had to replace brake lines already so the fuel line is not too far out of the question for future projects.

Stu fox

[Bob R.]

Re: Fuel line replacement with body on for mid-year

Your not getting a response so I thought I would suggest you check the archives. I remember some suggestions a couple of years ago. No one had a great way to properly replace the gas line. I seem to think someone had a suggestion about splicing a piece in such a way that the splice is not visible.

[Grant M.]

Re: Fuel line replacement with body on for mid-year

I don't recall the specifics, so you'll still have to check the DB Archives, but as I remember it, the "invisible" splice (I doubt it would pass judging) is made where the fuel line passes through the frame kick-up. Given that it's a fuel line, I think you'd want to be very careful in making a good splice....

Good luck,

grant

[Donald T.]

Re: Fuel line replacement with body on for mid-year

Keep in mind that you do not need to completely remove the body to replace the fuel line. You can lift just the passenger side up about 6 - 10 inches like a clam shell, which will give you enough clearance to replace the line. There is still significant dissassembly that needs to take place in order to do this, but you would avoid splicing the line. The main issue is the risk of breaking the body mount bolts or spinning the nuts in the cages.

[Ron R.]

Re: Fuel line replacement with body on for mid-year

My main concerns are the cage nuts, and body mounts.
I do not have a welder nor a place to store the body. I think if I lift it like a clam shell I might break something on the other side.

Keep in mind that you do not need to completely remove the body to replace the fuel line. You can lift just the passenger side up about 6 - 10 inches like a clam shell, which will give you enough clearance to replace the line. There is still significant dissassembly that needs to take place in order to do this, but you would avoid splicing the line. The main issue is the risk of breaking the body mount bolts or spinning the nuts in the cages.

[Donald T.]

Re: Fuel line replacement with body on for mid-year

My main concerns are the cage nuts, and body mounts.
I do not have a welder nor a place to store the body. I think if I lift it like a clam shell I might break something on the other side.

If you lift the one side like a clam shell, you just need to loosen the bolts on the other side. That will provide enough clearance to avoid any damage. The real concern are the body mounts as you indicated. Unfortunately, there just aren't any good options for replacing the fuel line.

[Stephen L.]

Re: Fuel line replacement with body on for mid-year

I guess someone has tried the clamshell routine, I haven't ... steering column, shifter, radiator, some wiring from engine to body, rear exhaust panel, seat belt anchors, and probably many other items need to be disconnected/removed. Body bolts are definitely a potential problem.

Good luck
Steve