Reattaching rear spring on a '66....mercy!

[Michael G.]

Good evening fellow Corvetters....having been there and done that numerous times over the years has to be an easier way for reattaching the rear spring on a mid year (currently reattaching my '66 spring). Before someone reccommends using a floor jack to push the spring up towards the trailing arm, let me say this is currently a bare frame with suspension and steering gear attached. It's almost a roller sans the rear spring being attached to trailing arms. Any of you guys have a sure fire easy-breezy process to re-attach a rear spring on a frame that has no weight to push back with? Appreciate any and all reccommendations.

Mike

[Dan H.]

Re: Reattaching rear spring on a '66....mercy!

Hi Mike, the way I did my no body on frame 64 rear spring was to pad the cross member above it, put a small hydraulic floor jack on it and with a chain and pads around the end of the spring jack it up from above to attach the the swingarm bolt to it. Be careful to not let it slip etc. Tighten the 4 spring retainer bolts after the total car weight is on the spring. Hope this helps,
Dan

[Jeff A.]

Re: Reattaching rear spring on a '66....mercy!

Hi Mike, the way I did my no body on frame 64 rear spring was to pad the cross member above it, put a small hydraulic floor jack on it and with a chain and pads around the end of the spring jack it up from above to attach the the swingarm bolt to it. Be careful to not let it slip etc. Tighten the 4 spring retainer bolts after the total car weight is on the spring. Hope this helps,
Dan

Mike,
I was in the same situation last month with my '66 and used the same technique as Dan, except that instead of using a chain, we used a wide, ratcheting cargo strap, like the ones truckers use to tie down loads on flatbeds. Worked like a charm. I'd provide photos, but my batteries were dead that day.
Jeff

[Ray G.]

Re: Reattaching rear spring on a '66....mercy!

Hello;
Directly above the spring ends (frame right side up) is about a 3/4" hole on an angle toward the spring end.
Used a 1/2" threaded rod with a chain and double bar muffler clamp (around the spring to stop it from slipping) Also use a double nut (more threads) available most places threaded rod is sold.
Doing both sides at the same time causes less strain on the center spring mounting. Less chance of breaking the rear diff. cover.
email for more detail.

Hope this helps.
Ray

[Rob M.]

Re: Reattaching rear spring on a '66....mercy!

I see a nice Restorer article forming here... Vinnie would love it!!!

[Michael G.]

Re: Reattaching rear spring on a '66....mercy!

In this case can't have too much info.

Want to say I appreciate all the input received. I eventually made a "T" (out of 2 x 4's) so to speak and propped between the overhead garage door frame and car frame. As I jacked the spring upward the car frame stopped going up and allowed the spring to then go up enough to get spring pad, washer and nut on. .

Ray....I like your idea.....not that mine wasn't as good....LOL and would relieve stress on rear end housing. Would like to know more. Images would be good.....might be something for an article!

Michael

[Ray G.]

Re: Reattaching rear spring on a '66....mercy!

Hello;

Ever heard about the guy who shot the 2"x4" into his daughters bedroom jacking against the ceiling ?

Have been using the the treaded rod method for years. (Always new rods)
Have to very careful and respect the danger by never allowing anybody or thing directly in line with the spring tension.

Believe I'm communicating with mechanically adept people on this discussion board. Not sure an article would be correctly followed by general public.

Ray