1962 Hardtop Trim Removal

[Wayne P.]

Been about 30 years since I did one of these. This is a nice one I don't want to damage. What is the best way to remove the front header stainless trim? Need to get off for a repaint. Thanks.

[Donald M.]

Re: 1962 Hardtop Trim Removal



Header Stainless Steel Trim Strips---remove center escutcheon by unclipping at its bottom front edge. Remove left and right molding by inserting a thin blade (putty knife) between the front/bottom edge of the stainless trim and cast aluminum header bar and gently working along the edge as it comes free. The left and right moldings are clipped (along the rear edge) onto a stamped steel retainer strip that is attached to the fiberglass top with screws.

[Mike E.]

Re: 1962 Hardtop Trim Removal

No difference at all between the 60 and 61-62 tops in that area. I've used a feeler gauge, believing that a putty knife had too thick a blade.
It's REALLY difficult to get it off without noticeable distortion of the bottom lip that you have to pry away. I'd consider doing the repaint with the moldings on, especially if the top is really nice. Do a super job of taping, and you probably come out ahead.

[Steven B.]

Re: 1962 Hardtop Trim Removal

Are the header stainless steel strips put on with adhesive and that is why a thin blade is used to remove them? I assume the process and form of attachment is also true for '56 and'57.

Thanks!

Steve

[Mike E.]

Re: 1962 Hardtop Trim Removal

No adhesive--they are a snap fit.

[Steven B.]

Re: 1962 Hardtop Trim Removal

Thanks Mike! I have a small dent to remove that has been there since before I got it in '64.

Steve

[Wayne P.]

Re: 1962 Hardtop Trim Removal

It's an extremely nice original top that just needs a repaint. I was already leaning toward leaving it together. I think Mike has convinced me.

[Stephen R.]

Re: 1962 Hardtop Trim Removal

I've rebuilt two hardtops in the last year. a 57/58 and a 59/60. I took off the front header molding on the first one using a putty knife. It was difficult and some bending was incurred. The retaining strip was totally corroded and in pieces. The screws holding the retainer to the top aluminum were corroded but I lucked out in being able to get them all out, however I buggered most of them so badly that I had to buy new ones. A new strip and screws from The Glassworks was about $90, (expensive). I replaced the retainer and attempted to put the front stainless on. The left side fit nicely, the right side, in the corner never sat correctly even after a few on/off attempts. Since I was now weakening a $90 part and the trim, I left the trim as best as I could get. On the second top, I left the front header trim on and decided to just tape it off when painting time comes. They call these tops "snow flake" tops because each is slightly different and they really were never meant to be taken apart and rebuilt.