1965 over heating.
All,
I have done the following in my recent rebuild (<125 miles) of my 365 horse small block and would like to know if there are any other suggestions for my gauge reading >210F while driving down the road. >210 when idling.
A. Dewitts aluminum radiator-new-with tanks-not original $850 style.
B. Old 330/ 180 degree thermostat. No brand markings.
C. Water wetter and 1/3 anti freeze cooling solution.
D. New Dewitts 13# expansion tank cap.
E. Heater core is blocked off in the summer months.
F. Stock 327 water pump with bypass.
G. New calibrated (supposedly) sending unit from Lectric Limited. Tested in 200 degree water, and the gauge read about 195 below the 210 graduation line on the gauge.
F. New exhaust heater valve on the passenger side manifold. It is open.
G. Stock 5 blade fan.
H. Stock fan clutch. Spins about 1-1.5 seconds after engine is turned off.
I . Actual compression ratio is 11.42:1.
J. Running 110 octane "turbo Blue" race gas.
K. Timing is 14 initial and 38 total. Air/fuel is 13.5:1 on the dyno. Slightly rich.
L. Everything else is stock.
Issue is that at idle in the garage, the car will idle at ~180 degrees for 20-30 minutes. When I drive it, the temp. will stay the 180 degrees until I get caught in traffic and have to stop. The temp will immediately rise to 210+ degrees and driving it on the highway at 55 mph for an additional 30 minutes will only keep the gauge at 210-220 or so. It never cools down at highway speeds. It has not boiled over, but the engine feels extemely hot. I know I need to use a heat gun and see what the real temp is. I do not understand why it will not dissapate heat when moving?
I have done the following in my recent rebuild (<125 miles) of my 365 horse small block and would like to know if there are any other suggestions for my gauge reading >210F while driving down the road. >210 when idling.
A. Dewitts aluminum radiator-new-with tanks-not original $850 style.
B. Old 330/ 180 degree thermostat. No brand markings.
C. Water wetter and 1/3 anti freeze cooling solution.
D. New Dewitts 13# expansion tank cap.
E. Heater core is blocked off in the summer months.
F. Stock 327 water pump with bypass.
G. New calibrated (supposedly) sending unit from Lectric Limited. Tested in 200 degree water, and the gauge read about 195 below the 210 graduation line on the gauge.
F. New exhaust heater valve on the passenger side manifold. It is open.
G. Stock 5 blade fan.
H. Stock fan clutch. Spins about 1-1.5 seconds after engine is turned off.
I . Actual compression ratio is 11.42:1.
J. Running 110 octane "turbo Blue" race gas.
K. Timing is 14 initial and 38 total. Air/fuel is 13.5:1 on the dyno. Slightly rich.
L. Everything else is stock.
Issue is that at idle in the garage, the car will idle at ~180 degrees for 20-30 minutes. When I drive it, the temp. will stay the 180 degrees until I get caught in traffic and have to stop. The temp will immediately rise to 210+ degrees and driving it on the highway at 55 mph for an additional 30 minutes will only keep the gauge at 210-220 or so. It never cools down at highway speeds. It has not boiled over, but the engine feels extemely hot. I know I need to use a heat gun and see what the real temp is. I do not understand why it will not dissapate heat when moving?
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