Clutch Pedal Bracket Pin

[Tom R.]

The pin that connects the clutch pedal bracket with the clutch pushrod has sheared off (67 bigblock). I found about half of it on the floorboard with the "G" clip still in. I've tried every way I know of to push the remainder out of the clutch bracket without success. Is the pin part of the bracket and not removable? I realized I cannot easily remove the pedal and checked the archives to find that the steering column, etc. has to be dropped and perhaps the cluster removed to replace the entire pedal. This is way more than I'm excited about to simply replace a pin. There isn't any part of the pin exposed other that the 5/8" round head. The shaft part sheared where it passes through the bracket. I can't get a drill near and have tried locking Vise grips onto the round head to loosen it, along with Vise grips while clamping to perhaps push it through. I'm out of ideas. Advice?

[Ray G.]

Re: Clutch Pedal Bracket Pin

Hello;
Pin is pressed and or welded in arm.
Have you looked at the possibility of removing the clutch pedal from the tower in the car.
Haven't tried this, but it was the first thing I thought of while reading your question.
I'll look at the pedal myself and send another answer afterward.
Hope this helps.
Ray

[Ray G.]

Re: Clutch Pedal Bracket Pin

Hello;
Just looked at my '67.
Pedal arm will not come out of tower in car.
Removing pedal assembly takes time, but is not difficult.
Help in removing cluster is to use 6" long bolts with the heads cut off (in place of the retaining screws) to slide the gauges rearward and gain access to remove oil line and electrical.
Hope THIS helps.
Ray

[William C.]

Re: Clutch Pedal Bracket Pin

Can't say if '67 is the same, but on a '65 the pin is part of a plate that is bolted on (allows two different settings for racing" and street) I unbolted the plate, pressed out the broken part (heavy pressure, big "BANG") found a suitable replacement at the local tractor supply, pressed in and gave a little tack weld, good to go!

[Tom R.]

Re: Clutch Pedal Bracket Pin

Ray,

What are you trying to tell me about the 6" bolts in lieu of the screws? I've removed the cluster from a '62 & a '65 and it wasn't difficult but it was cumbersome. I have telescopic wheel and really don't want to scratch up the paint when I remove this time as I have in the past.

[Ray G.]

Re: Clutch Pedal Bracket Pin

Hello;
We are talking about the pin on the clutch pedal arm, on which the rod going through the firewall attaches, correct.
'67 plate with the pin (which is broken) is spot welded to the arm.

The 6" 1/4 x 20" bolts are just used to make removing the cluster less cumbersome.
The steering column must be removed prior.
Sorry about the confusion.

Hope this helps.
Ray

[Joe L.]

Re: Clutch Pedal Bracket Pin

Hello;
We are talking about the pin on the clutch pedal arm, on which the rod going through the firewall attaches, correct.
'67 plate with the pin (which is broken) is spot welded to the arm.

The 6" 1/4 x 20" bolts are just used to make removing the cluster less cumbersome.
The steering column must be removed prior.
Sorry about the confusion.

Hope this helps.
Ray

Ray and Tom-----

Yes, 1967 was the first year that used the "integral" pedal push rod pivot pin on the pedal shaft. This practice continued through the 1981 model year. This was an EXTREMELY DUMB thing for GM to do, but that's what they did. As has been mentioned, the pivot pin is welded to the pedal arm. In order to replace the pin, one has to remove the pedal from the car.

Once this is done, the weld securing the pin to the arm has to be CAREFULLY ground away, freeing the pin. Considering "vestiges" of the original weld, before a new pin is installed and welded, I always prefer to very lightly spot face the side of the arm on which the head of the new pin seats. This is done to ensure that the head of the new pin will seat in a manner which results in the pin being exactly perpendicular to the pedal arm. This is ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL if the finished assembly is to work properly. You don't want to get this all installed and find out the system binds due to lack of perpendicularity of the pin with the shaft.

For replacement, you need a HARDENED clevis pin of 5/16" OD and of 15/16" to 1" length between the base of the head and the centerline of the retainer hole.

By the way, the shearing of the clutch pedal pivot pin in a 1967-81 Corvette can be an "ugly" experience, especially if it occurs a long way from home. For want of a $1 part, the car is "dead in the water". Plus, installing that $1 part is not something that can be done at roadside or at an hotel parking lot.

[Ray G.]

Re: Clutch Pedal Bracket Pin

Thanks for your insights Joe.

Always enjoy the depth of your knowledge.

Ray