I've installed new strut rod bushings, new rear shock supports, new shocks, new rubber spring bolt cushions and a nine leaf spring from Eaton Spring. All connections are finger tight (including the four spring to diff. case), the body weight is on the rear. Situation is the height is about 2" high. Both the 'D' measurement and the measurement from the ground to the lower edge of the wheel well. There is a 3-1/4" arch left in the spring. The archives discuss settling down after driving. How does one drive with bolt connections loose? And how does the suspension settle if the bolts are torqued? Any opinions are appreciated. Does the spring have to come off? Jim
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Re: 66 small block rear spring
You can torque the four spring-to-rear cover bolts now that the car is on wheels, and all the other attachments as well; don't drive it with any of them loose. If your Eaton spring has clips on it, remove them - they're only to hold the leaves in alignment during shipping. It'll settle some after about 100 miles of driving. -
Re: 66 small block rear spring
Thank you John for your reply. There has been so much discussion regarding the four bolts and their torqueing that because the spring still has arch to it, I am hesitant to tighten them because of the danger of snapping the ears of the case. In your experience, have you seen a rear suspension settle up to two inches? JimComment
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Re: 66 small block rear spring
Hi James:
I have the Eaton spring in my 67 and it seems fine. Part of the apparent extra height you see may be due to the camber in your rear wheels.
If you lift a C2 off the ground and simply lower it, the rear wheels will be cambered in due to the fact that the tires camber in when the car is lifted, and they can not slip sideways when you lower it. You can fix this by rolling the car back and forth a few feet to let the tires squirm outward. I sugest tightening the differential bolts to about 15 ft-lb, then rolling the car back and forth and also jouncing the rear end up and down to help the spring settle. Then you can finish tightening the bolts.
On a related note regarding the four bolts that hold the spring to the differential, be VERY careful that the lengths are correct. My Eaton spring was about 1/4 inch thicker than the original, which would cause the original bolts to get too little "bite" in the differential case. On the other hand, if the bolts are too long, the two front ones will bottom out in their holes, and torquing them further can punch through into the differential case.
I ended up getting some reproduction bolts that were a bit too long, and grinding down the ends of the two forward bolts.
Also, the center bolt that held my Eaton spring together had a head that was too tall, so that it would bottom out in the recess in the differential housing and prevent the spring from seating properly. That required some grinding as well.Comment
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Re: 66 small block rear spring
After rolling the car 20 ft. and back the car settled 1-1/2". I was then able to tighten everything and it ended up where it should be; approx. 27" ground to lower lip of wheel well. Thank you Joe!Comment
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