Trashing A 60

[Bruce F.]

Hi everyone! I would like some opinions as to what GM crate motor would work best in my 60 that has been tucked in a warehouse since 1976. The car is a very nice survivor and mostly correct. My intensions are to restore the car in a year or two, but for now I just want to get it on the street and have some fun! My objectives for a motor are as follows: 1. Lots of HP! 2. Bolts right in with little or no problems. (Hood clearance, clutch linkage, etc.) 3. Be able to remove the motor and place it in a mid-year or 69 when I restore the 60. Thanks in advance! Bruce

[Chuck S.]

Re: Trashing A 60

You know what they say; Speed costs money...How fast do you want to go?

Assuming that you want to preserve your existing engine complete for restoration, these are all "turn-key" engines except the last one, which will need additional components to complete. Free shipping on some of them, and that's nothing to sneeze at these days:

If you want to go as fast as that old C1 ever went, do this one:

http://www.sdparts.com/product/12499711/330HP350DeluxeTurnKeyGMPerformancePartsCrateEngineAssembly.aspx

If you want to go as fast as an LT1, with a hydraulic roller cam, this is the one I like for my 70:

http://www.sdparts.com/product/12499712/ZZ4350355HPEngineTurnKeyKit.aspx

If you want to go faster than an LT1, then do this one:

http://www.sdparts.com/product/12499710/FastBurn385TurnKeyEngineKit.aspx

If you got enough bread to go crazy insane fast, do this one (add'l parts required): http://www.sdparts.com/product/12498...inumHeads.aspx

As far as fitting under the hood, I really don't know jack about these engines; but, Scoggin Dickey has guys that can tell you what will work and what won't. Or...You can always get your priorities straight, pick the engine you want, then buy an aftermarket "bonnet" or graft a "power bulge" onto a repro hood to hide all that naked power.

[Joe L.]

Re: Trashing A 60

Hi everyone! I would like some opinions as to what GM crate motor would work best in my 60 that has been tucked in a warehouse since 1976. The car is a very nice survivor and mostly correct. My intensions are to restore the car in a year or two, but for now I just want to get it on the street and have some fun! My objectives for a motor are as follows: 1. Lots of HP! 2. Bolts right in with little or no problems. (Hood clearance, clutch linkage, etc.) 3. Be able to remove the motor and place it in a mid-year or 69 when I restore the 60. Thanks in advance! Bruce

Bruce----


It all depends how much power you want and how much you want to spend. Here are several good choices:

GM #10067353---about $1700---long block; use your intake, exhaust, waterpump, and peripherals; 350 cid/260 hp;

GM #12499529----about $2000----long block; requires same parts as above; 350 cid/290 hp;

GM #24502609----about $4000-----complete engine less peripherals (i.e. carb, starter, alternator , exhaust manifolds); "ZZ4"; 350 cid/355 hp;

GM #12498772----about $5500-----complete engine less peripherals; 383 cid/405 hp.

All of the above will be, essentially, a bolt in installation for C1, C2, and C3.

[Terry D.]

Re: Trashing A 60

Bruce
You might also want to look at "Blueprint Engines" sold by Summit Racing and Jegs and from their website. Also look at the 350 Year One has to offer for $3000. As stated before speed costs money, just depends on how much you want to spend.
Terry

[Stuart F.]

Re: Trashing A 60

Bruce;

There has been a lot written on the subject and I have been following it myself for some time because I've had similar thoughts for my 63. There are a lot of considerations for making your installation look as close to original - maybe or maybe not. One can even get valve covers now that can attach to Vortex heads that look like yours. You will need to deal with the crankcase ventilation question as you won't have a draft tube any more. I would go with an oil tube vent cap like you have, then draw from a baffled PCV connection in the back of your manifold into the valley(ouch!). The other alternative is to use baffled air intake elbows on your covers and draw through your oil fill tube w/ a pcv circa 65-67. Either way you will have to modify something, so make it a piece you are willing to sacrifice or can duplicate. Stick with a rear mounted distributor, and watch your water pump length and accessory drive pully arrangement to duplicate what you have.

I have plans to go unabashed into a 383 w/dual AFB's and close in headers w/ 3" pipes back thru the rear valance like stock. My dream - I should live so long!

Stu Fox

[John D.]

Re: Trashing A 60

Stu, How much for your original 63 engine.??? JD

[Stuart F.]

Re: Trashing A 60

Ah John; I'm afraid you'll probably have to deal with my heirs for it. The 383 is just a re-occurring dream I have for the intent to save my original engine, shrink-wrapped off in the corner of my garage. What ever I would do, it would have to sound at least as mean as my engine. I've heard a lot of replacements, and they just don't sound the same. I don't know if it's the C.R. or the Duntov, probably the roller hydraulics vs. the solids. My ears can pick out a replacement every time, even the new LS engines.
As I have mentioned before, I have had people ask me to start mine up at shows just so they could hear it run. Brings back a lot of memories to people. Too bad I don't live up north any more. It used to be fun to turn the idle down a little and blow smoke rings in the cold air.

Stu Fox