Restoration Engines 61 Vette

[Rod M.]

If you have read about my wrong block saga, you know I have to find another engine.

I am looking to purchase a restoration engine block, and have considered purchasing it from PERFOMANCE CHEVY in Phoenix AZ. They are one of the advertisers in the DriveLine.

Any feed back on quality, or service work on the engines they supply? If I purchase a restoration engine with proper cast dates and pad stamp, will this be acceptable for judging?

I don't want to make a second mistake..

[Mike M.]

Re: Restoration Engines 61 Vette

its unlikely the resto pad will have authentic broach marks. if all other judged engine case characteristics are appropriate for you vette, the resto broach marks will take a 38 point deduct. mike

[Rod M.]

Re: Restoration Engines 61 Vette

Anyone have feed back on purchasing engines from PERFOMANCE CHEVY or PERFORMANCE HEADS in Phoenix AZ? good bad or the ugly?

[Don W.]

Re: Restoration Engines 61 Vette

Rod,

I don't have experience with them. You may want to contact some of the Phoenix area corvette restoration shops such as Corvette Restoration AZ in Tempe or Howard's Corvettes in Mesa and ask them.

Also, just to be clear. You are not going to be able to go to an engine builder and get a fully matching numbers engine. If that could be done, everyone would have a matching numbers car and the true matching cars would not be such a collectors item and so valuable. I've spent months trying to find a matching numbers carb for my '69 427 and there is nothing out there at this time with correct date codes and I'll expect to pay $900 to $1100 just for a restored matching carb.

Don

[Rod M.]

Re: Restoration Engines 61 Vette

Thanks, I plan to at least get the correct engine factor location (flint) and the date code (K). The only thing that will not be accurate will be the pad stamp. In earlier posts on find I had a Tonawanda block, they indicated that I would loose the smallest of points with only the pad being wrong. Do you agree?

[Terry D.]

Re: Restoration Engines 61 Vette

Rod
May I suggest you purchase a "Corvette Judging Reference Manual" from the NCRS store. It will answer your question and many more that will arise in your quest for an award.
Just don't loose sight of all the fun to be had just driving the car, whether it has the correct engine or not.
Terry

[Joel F.]

Re: Restoration Engines 61 Vette

Thanks, I plan to at least get the correct engine factor location (flint) and the date code (K). The only thing that will not be accurate will be the pad stamp. In earlier posts on find I had a Tonawanda block, they indicated that I would loose the smallest of points with only the pad being wrong. Do you agree?

Rod,

The way I see it, there are a few scenarios. The pad surface is 38, and each stamp is 25. You could potentially lose any combination of the above with a re-stamped, re-broached pad.

[William C.]

Re: Restoration Engines 61 Vette

Slow Down! Time is on your side and being in a hurry is your enemy. Buy the '61-62 Judging Guide and the Judging Reference manual and familiarize youself with them, as well as spending some time at any NCRS activities within driving distance. Start your search for a block after you feel you can evaluate for yourself what you are looking for. Based on your discussions so far, if a K block is OK, so would an I or J block work satisfactorally. You have many options, just look at all of them. An ad in the "Driveline" might be a good (free) start.

[Don W.]

Re: Restoration Engines 61 Vette

Rod,

As others have suggested, you should purchase the judging manual and leverage the services at NCRS. Then, you can decide if you want to pursue an NCRS award vs. enjoying a classic driver. It would be best to have your current configuration judged at local NCRS event to see where you stand with car. It is very easy to get financially upside down with one of these cars and still not have a top flight car. They are still great fun to enjoy on the road.

If you are truly focused on an NCRS top flight, it is best to have your car judged and see what needs to be corrected, then you can evaluate costs vs. purchasing an already top flight car. Also note in your cost that a top flight car does not need to run correctly which means you could still have major mechanical, electrical, suspension, brake, steering, and safety issues that need to be fixed at additional costs. i.e., engine, tranny, wheel bearings, etc.

One last point that several others are trying to help you with here. You seem to be focused on the block for this vehicle which is why several are suggesting you get the judging manual. Let me give you a high level example to provide some insight:
In judging just your engine compartment:

• Matching part numbers and date coding
  • there are many items under the hood that GM placed both part numbers and date codes on. Examples include block, heads, intake manifold, carb, distributor, distributor wires, generator, and radiator components. The tranny and rear axle are also numbered and date coded.
• Matching number with out date codes
  • there are also parts with GM #'s with no date codes such as thermostat housing, radiator hoses, etc.
• Correct parts
  • All other parts are evaluated for correctness per the original build. These include items such as hose clamps, bolts, gaskets, wiring, vacuum and electrical components, radiator seals and gaskets, dip sticks, oil cap, oil filter, air cleaner, etc.
• Correct finish and condition
  • the finish of parts per how GM originally supplied them is also evaluated and scored. So non-original chromed parts, rusted or oxidized parts, parts with original light GM zinc-oxide or other coatings removed are all scoring issues

If all of the above is correct, then your engine area is correct and matching numbers. But, there is still the whole rest of the vehicle that will go through a similar evaluation.

Hope this helps you with a better understanding and enjoy your 40+ year old classic.

Don