60, 230Hp, Procedure for replacing Rear Main Seal

[Jim K.]

I have read the shop manual on the procedure for replacing the rear main seal on a 60, 283/230hp engine. My question is are there any short cuts in removing and replacing the rear main seal. Do you need to do all those items discribed in the manual, such as jack the engine up 2 or 3 inches in order to get the oil pan off, drain the radiator & disconnect hoses, loosen transmission support bolts and exhaust,........ Just checking to see if someone created a better mouse trap, so to speak (found an easier way of getting this done).

[Joe R.]

Re: 60, 230Hp, Procedure for replacing Rear Main Seal

Hi Jim:

I don't know about 1960, but I have done this operation on my 67 without disconnecting the hoses and jacking the engine. The main issue is whether there is enough clearance to drop the pan. The 1960 frame is different from the 1967 frame, so maybe you really have to do all of that.

In my case all I had to do was drop the idler arm to lower the steering linkage, and then rotate the crankshaft to a position that minimized interference from the counterweights. The pan came right out after those two steps.

If the service manual says you have to jack the engine, it seems likely that you actually have to do that, but hopefully some C2 owners will chime in an give you the story.

[Jim K.]

Re: 60, 230Hp, Procedure for replacing Rear Main Seal

Thanks, Joe I appreciate your reply. I also saw the procedure Bill Schroeder wrote up which appears to be for a C2 years.
I figured that it didn't hurt to ask

[Terry R.]

Re: 60, 230Hp, Procedure for replacing Rear Main Seal

Jim To get the pan off my '62 I dropped the exhaust,remove pan bolts, drop pan down, and reach in from rear and remove oil pump. Without pump and pick up in the way watch out it don't fall on you.

[Timothy B.]

Re: 60, 230Hp, Procedure for replacing Rear Main Seal

Jim,
One other thing I would like to mention is to use the high quality GM seal. I used Fel Pro 2900 and sealed both sides of the main cap per the instructions and the seal leaks more then before. Someone will post the GM or Fel pro # for the good seal. Funny thing is if the engine is allowed run for a period of time the leak stops, only thing I can figure is the seal softens with heat and holds.

[Howard M.]

Re: 60, 230Hp, Procedure for replacing Rear Main Seal

Jim:
I did the rear main seal on my '60 last year. You do not have to disconnect or remove anything to get the pan off. Nothing interferes. I took the starter off for inspection and cleanup but not for pan removal. Make sure you get the correct pan gasket set. The more expensive one piece is preferred but the 4 piece works O.K. as well.
Howard

[Jim K.]

Re: 60, 230Hp, Procedure for replacing Rear Main Seal

Howard, Do you remember who you got your seals and oil pan gaskets from?

[Howard M.]

Re: 60, 230Hp, Procedure for replacing Rear Main Seal

Jim:
I got both the seal and gasket set from NAPA (Felpro). I didn't know about the GM seal when I did mine but after reading several of the posts, I would look into it before making a final choice. If the GM seal extends the lip so that it rides on a different location on the crank, it might be better since the original location might be scored. I used the 4 piece pan gasket set but needed a mid-year set since someone in the past had replaced the oil pan that has a deeper front pan rail cutout. There are several good posts on the installation. The main thing is to keep the mating surfaces clean so that the sealant sticks.
Let me know if I can be of further help.