paint help quick

[Don S.]

Taking car in tomorrow for repaint. have to tell him what to paint it with. choices are laquer, base coat -clear coat, and something called one stage which is paint plus clear coat mixed together. I have to let him know. They are all the same price. He suggests the one stage. I know laquer is original but it does not last as long. All I know is shiny sells. People mostly want shiny and the cars sell for more. This is my my obversation while looking at auctions -- Barrett Jackson in particular. I know that everyone will say go with original , but even a ncrs judge who prepped his car for barret confessed to having 6k worth of powder coat uner the hood .

Need some advice so i can make decision. !!! help

[Tyler T.]

Re: paint help quick

What year? First find out if he knows how to spray todays lacquer, what type of gun does he use, how good is at buffing it out when its done, you cannot use modern guns with lacquer and get a consistant finish you need to use the old guns designed with that paint. If it is going to be judged find out if he knows how to get it right for NCRS judging. If he is weak on either then go for a show/driver paint job using BC/CC especially if that is what he is best at using. Single stage with todays paints is a very good alternative for black but metallics respond best to BC/CC.

Tyler

[Don S.]

Re: paint help quick

Tyler--55 gypsy red top flite car. (I booked up with you in Kissimmee a year ago.)He can do all and appears to be competant in all. he does mainly 55-57 chevies. I do not want to have it judged again. It is numbers match and have been through all of that. I want something that looks really good. dont want any orange peel.

[Robert D.]

Re: paint help quick

if thats the case then go with the BC/CC the single stage is harder to fix God forbid something happens to the paint. plus, if he uses a high solid clear you could wet sand the crap out of it without really worrying about going through and get all the orange peal out of it. will look like a mirror. if not going for laquer and judging then BC/CC. but, if he is really good, with the use of flattening agents in the correct areas he could get a flatter appearence with the BC/CC and it would be difficult to tell the difference from a laquer job. if you do choose laquer as Tyler says make sure he has the correct equipment for the job not only the spray guns but also the buffing wheels. definately need more abrasive compounds and old style wool buffing wheels to generate the correct amount of heat to get the correct finish. laquer paint is thermoplastic and will need to be heated up. with the wheels of today, (sponge egg shell wheels) you cant generate the right heat to flow the paint properly.

[Wayne W.]

Re: paint help quick

I would never do a solid color w/o metalics in BC/CC. If you want durability use single stage urethane. It can be done w/o orange peel and will look more like the old lacquer, but easier to care for.

[Bruce B.]

Re: paint help quick

BC/CC will give you the most durable and smoothest finish without any orange peel assuming it is properly wet sanded and buffed.
The technology is state of the art and you will not be dissappointed if it is done correctly.

[Dick W.]

Re: paint help quick

Wayne Wobble gave you some good advice. He has painted many Corvettes over the last 30 or so years.

[Chuck S.]

Re: paint help quick

I would never do a solid color w/o metalics in BC/CC. If you want durability use single stage urethane. It can be done w/o orange peel and will look more like the old lacquer, but easier to care for.

Wayne, I'm surprised at you recommending single stage urethane...I figured you for a diehard acrylic lacquer guy for restoration paint.

Wayne's advice is good in my opinion...I wouldn't consider anything BUT single stage urethane (SSU) myself. What the painter is recommending with his "one stage" with clear is one to two coats of single stage urethane full color, then, according to PPG's tech services, a final coat with a MAXIMUM of 50% ready to spray clear mixed with 50% ready to spray color.

This exact method has been suggested as an alternative to BC/CC or current acrylic lacquer at NCRS paint seminars. The clear is not intended to enhance the appearance...it's there to improve the SSU's durability, so you only need it in the last coat.

IMO, orange peel, boogers, and dust nibs are all inevitable when spraying SSU, so you're looking at having to color sand anyway. When sprayed with HVLP guns, SSU will have a coarse orange peel unlike the fine orange peel from spraying lacquer with conventional guns. Color sand with 1500 grit, then 2000 grit. Follow that by buffing with 3M Perfect-It II, then 3M Foam Pad Glaze for a finish like glass.

[Robert K.]

Re: paint help quick

Wayne/Chuck,

Would you recommend SSU for a metallic like Fathom Green? Or would you recommend BC/CC for that color. Going to be having my 69 resprayed pretty soon.

Bob

[Chuck S.]

Re: paint help quick

Would you recommend SSU for a metallic like Fathom Green? Or would you recommend BC/CC for that color. Going to be having my 69 resprayed pretty soon...

I haven't painted metallics in SSU, so I defer to Wayne's experience.

[Wayne W.]

Re: paint help quick

Its pretty hard to handle the metalics in single stage urethane, so I would say to stay away from that.

With single stage this is the way i do it. Add flatening agent to the paint for the jams. You can use it to your liking of just how flat you want it.

On the outside, I do it in two stages. I shoot the body to color as you would do anything. Then after it cures, I wetsand with 600 finish. This removes the orange peel. I then re-shoot it with a thinned out double coat of paint. I use a conventional gun to do this and the grain is very much like lacquer. Very little buffing is required, but you need to buff to break the raw urethane shine and make it look like lacquer.

[Joel F.]

Re: paint help quick

Its pretty hard to handle the metalics in single stage urethane, so I would say to stay away from that.

With single stage this is the way i do it. Add flatening agent to the paint for the jams. You can use it to your liking of just how flat you want it.

On the outside, I do it in two stages. I shoot the body to color as you would do anything. Then after it cures, I wetsand with 600 finish. This removes the orange peel. I then re-shoot it with a thinned out double coat of paint. I use a conventional gun to do this and the grain is very much like lacquer. Very little buffing is required, but you need to buff to break the raw urethane shine and make it look like lacquer.

Wayne,

How do you handle bc/cc for metallics?

Thanks
Joel

[Chuck S.]

Re: paint help quick

...Then after it cures, I wetsand with 600 finish. This removes the orange peel. I then re-shoot it with a thinned out double coat of paint. I use a conventional gun to do this and the grain is very much like lacquer...

How much reduction do you use for the "thinned out double coat", Wayne? I assume by "double coat", you mean you apply two wet-on-wet coats to as much area as you can cover in the 5 to 10 minutes usually required between coats?

[Wayne W.]

Re: paint help quick

How much reduction do you use for the "thinned out double coat", Wayne? I assume by "double coat", you mean you apply two wet-on-wet coats to as much area as you can cover in the 5 to 10 minutes usually required between coats?

That would vary some between paint brands, and I do it a little by feel, but about twice the recommended for thinner usually is about right. So 4/1/1 would be 4/2/1. Most of the time I will do a light coat to tack and then shoot a smooth one to finish.

[Wayne W.]

Re: paint help quick

Wayne,

How do you handle bc/cc for metallics?

Thanks
Joel

Pretty straight forward for those. You have to shoot out the color as recommended by the manufacturer. You can sand and re-shoot the clear, to control grain if you want to, and you can also add flatener to the clear in jams.