It has been so long since I had a wiring harness that worked, I can remember if this is right or not. The heater blower will work whether the key is off or not. This just does not seem right to me. I have studied, traced wires till my eyes have crossed and I can't find anything out of place. The brown feed to the switch for the blower motor comes from the ballast resistor. The ground of course comes from the plate that holds the blower switch and has a black wire going from it to the right valve cover bolt. What am I missing!
Is this right for my heater blower?
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Re: Is this right for my heater blower?
It has been so long since I had a wiring harness that worked, I can remember if this is right or not. The heater blower will work whether the key is off or not. This just does not seem right to me. I have studied, traced wires till my eyes have crossed and I can't find anything out of place. The brown feed to the switch for the blower motor comes from the ballast resistor Wrong it should go to the fuse block. The ground of course comes from the plate that holds the blower switch and has a black wire going from it to the right valve cover bolt. What am I missing!- Top
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Re: Is this right for my heater blower?
Hmmmm, I'm confused. My 61-62 wiring diagram, as well as the 58-60 diagram, shows a #14 brown wire for the heater coming from the fuse block. There's a fuse marked "HEATER". Heater wire should not go to the ballsat resistor. The w/s wiper brown power lead goes to the ballast resistor.
The clock and cig lighter are powered without key, as are headlights & park lights, courtesy light, and oh yea.....the horn.(just woke up the doggies).
Also, Roy is correct. If the ballast is powered with key off, something is likely misswired at the ignition switch, or a defective switch. Chances are you're battery is getting weak, and you're ignition points may be fried too if they were closed with the power to the coil on.
RichLast edited by Richard M.; May 14, 2008, 09:43 PM.- Top
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Re: Is this right for my heater blower?
I need to get to the car again to look at these tips. My head is starting to hurt. Thanks for the replies. Now I am getting to wonder if I am telling this correctly. There are two br. wires on the ballast resistor(both on the same post). One of them goes to the wiper motor and it is only hot when the key is on. There are also 2 green wires and they are both on the same post. The schematic does not show where the wires go on the back of the ignition switch. They show them on a position, but not on which post.
Battery is only connected as I sort this out.Last edited by David K.; May 14, 2008, 10:50 PM.- Top
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Re: Is this right for my heater blower?
David, ok .......
Yes, the brown on the ballast comes from the ign switch, when key is on(or start pos). The 2 greens on the other side of the ballast......one goes to the + terminal on the coil, the other goes down towards the starter(thru the eng harness). It gets connected to the starter solenoid "C" terminal(C=Coil). The "S" terminal on the solenoid goes to the ign switch "S"(starter) terminal. The "C" terminal on the solenoid gets 12 volts(peak battery voltage) when the starter is cranking. This supplies the coil with that peak voltage to get maximum spark when cranking. Cranking the starter drops battery voltage, so rather than the coil getting the lower voltage(thru ballast resistor), it gets the max during cranking.
As an additive, your engine harness has a keyed plug for the ignition switch. All wiring should be connected properly there..... if you have the correct switch.
The little pink wire going to the gauges should only be powered with key on(ign). This comes from the extra "ign" terminal on ign sw(brown wire in plug).
There is also a terminal("acc") on the switch that feeds the fuse block, again small pink wire.
Also a extra constant +12v feed terminal off the "bat" terminal plug. Nothing should connect here. Often the pink wire for the gauges gets connected here(instead of "ign"), which will keep power on the gauges, radio, heater.... with key "off". Hmmmmm.
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